Any body know where to get a carborator kit or a rebuilt carb for my 88 festy?
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Carborator Kit or rebuilt cab?
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If you don't have to deal with emissions out there, I would strongly suggest going with a Weber carb. More power, better mileage, simpler by far, cleans up the engine bay a lot. Do a search on here to see how it's done; it's actually pretty simple. I've put Webers on three cars, altho not any Festys. Helped drddan do it tho.
Edit: here's Dan's thread: http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ght=weber+carbLast edited by TominMO; 07-18-2011, 07:16 AM.90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
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2X on Aaronbrooks37 suggestion!
Rebuild of festiva carb via Kartracer will likely be more economical, $ wise.'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
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Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
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If you are going to rebuild original carb, take loads of pics before you even think about removing carb from car. There is so much black spaghetti and electronic gizmos, its not funny. (Well its funny if somebody else has to deal with it...) Take lots pics before disconnecting anything and get roll masking tape and a sharpie pen to label anything you arent sure about. Otherwise you will never remember where everything goes.
I went with a Weber instead of rebuilding festy carb as I wanted Festy to be simple as possible to work on in future. Plus I already had a genuine Weber I saved from an old VW I used to own. But will say I drove Festy for several years with no problems from original carb. So just whatever works best for you. The Weber does require fabricating adapter plates or else modifying the manifold itself. So neither path is without hassle.
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As the owner of an '88, the Weber would definitely be the prefered option.
The adapter plate is the kicker. With so many folks going this route, why hasn't anyone on the site made an tried and true, "definitely works", adapter.
Might make a few bucks. Must have a few metalsmiths out there.
Easier then replicating a underseat tray.
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.... Good question.:thumbup:
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Originally posted by seattlestiva View PostAs the owner of an '88, the Weber would definitely be the prefered option.
The adapter plate is the kicker. With so many folks going this route, why hasn't anyone on the site made an tried and true, "definitely works", adapter.
Might make a few bucks. Must have a few metalsmiths out there.
Easier then replicating a underseat tray.A hunch is creativity trying to tell you something.
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Originally posted by denguy View PostWhen you put the Weber-Holley- Escort carb on the 1.3L festy did you use the the jets that came with it or did you have to rejet for the street?
Mine was a genuine aftermarket Weber jetted for 1.6L VW. I didnt have to rejet it. From what I heard the Escort carb also is for 1.6L and close enough to needs of the Festy 1.3L that it doesnt need to be rejetted. You get Holley-Weber off a Pinto or Vega or such with bigger engines, pretty sure you are going to have to rejet. Plus I would guess they would be too big of a bore. Seems to be a goodly supply of Escort carbs so thats way I would go if I had to do another retrofit. I had the VW weber and knew what it was jetted for so used it. I'd guess any unknown used Weber would have to be rejetted. People tended to buy them to replace a crap OEM carb and then not properly rejet them to their application.
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Originally posted by seattlestiva View PostAs the owner of an '88, the Weber would definitely be the prefered option.
The adapter plate is the kicker. With so many folks going this route, why hasn't anyone on the site made an tried and true, "definitely works", adapter.
Might make a few bucks. Must have a few metalsmiths out there.
Easier then replicating a underseat tray.
I used couple rectangles of 1/4 inch plate steel. Could use thinner metal I suppose, and aluminum probably little easier to work. I just happened to have some old 1/4 inch boiler plate. Adapted one to hole and bolts in manifold, the other to the holes in base of carb. Then made them so they bolt together. You bolt the one plate to the manifold, one plate to the carb, then line the plates up and bolt the plates together. Oh and you use bevel head bolts to bolt bottom plate to manifold and bevel head bolts to bolt upper plate to carb. This so the surfaces of the two plates are flat to bolt together.
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Mine works great with a Weber 32/36 DGEV. I was able to use the original throttle linkage and was even able to make the dashpot that increases idle for the air conditioner work again with minor modifications. I don't want to brag, but I'll bet mine went together better than just about anyone's on here. Look for the write up. It will also significantly increase your power. Look for "Attempting the weber carb install" in the "Garage" heading. Do your homework!Last edited by zoe60; 08-05-2011, 07:20 PM.
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just rebuilt my carb cause it was all gummed up, and it went perfectly. all i can say is get the numbered stickers from the auto store and mark every vaccum line and solinoid lug befor u take it off, then putting it back is easy. took my about 5 hours to take it off clean it, rebuild it install it and start it. with out ever having done this before. after you do it once, its a breeze. you can get the rebuild kit from auto zone or oreileys for like 23 bucks. and get some carb clean out. good luck, lemme know if you got a question. or send a pic if you need help!!BeachStiva
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