cv nut too tight?

[nitrofarm]

125-130 ftlb is the spec. so, yes, you can have it too tight.

from the discription, the bearings are gauled and starting to sieze on the races (or have been over torqued). replace the bearings with quality pieces (timken or the like, no off brand crap!) and then retorque the CV nut properly.

FestYboy,where did you get that spec? Both my (Ford) Festy & Aspire books call out 116-174 lb-ft. Has it been ammended and I'm not aware of it? Thanks,Thomas.

[FestYboy]

^really? i seem to recall that spec from my 89 manual, i'll have to look that up again.
all i know for sure that anything over 150 is unnessisary/overkill, especially for our cars.

[MelBoo]

we just over torqued it. it runs smooth now. i(being chris the boyfriend and person doing the work) used a jack and a 78 ltd to press it together. have had no problems. now just to do the right brakes and take a look at the back drum brake. and she'll be in great running condition.

[nitrofarm]

^really? i seem to recall that spec from my 89 manual, i'll have to look that up again.
all i know for sure that anything over 150 is unnessisary/overkill, especially for our cars.

Yes,the book calls out for 145 ft-lb when setting & checking the bearing preload. So if you do the math 145 ft-lb is the middle of the 116-174 ft-lb torque range. I'm not sure why they have that range? Why dont they just torque the nut 145 ft-lbs like called out for bearing preload setup? Kinda strange huh? But I'm sure there is a method to their madness. I've just been torqueing the nut to the low range like yourself.....

[GenevaDirt]

Not to discourage anyone from tackling a hub rebuild, but it seems that the old spacer being the right thickness for new bearings is somewhat of a crapshoot. There are 21 different sizes of spacers (where would you get one?) and the right one is determined by the flaky and tedious method of using a sensitive torque wrench to determine pre-load after everything is pressed together. It also requires several pullers, adapters and a "pre-load selection" tool. It makes more sense to get a used one and save your old ones for a rainy day.

you do not change the spacer when you do a bearing swap...the spacer is for the hub.....the bearings are machined to a much closer tolerance so they are basically the same...one to another. Save the spacer and reuse it when doing the job and if you do it right everything will be fine.

[MelBoo]

hmmm. the bearings are doing fine. the car runs smoothly now. well almost. just need to do the right brake pads. i drove the car about 75 miles today to and from work and it did awesome.

[georgeb]

But we're not done arguing.

[WmWatt]

Truth be told the spacer is for the knuckle, not the hub. The hub is not used in preload spacer selection, just the knuckle.

[GenevaDirt]

Truth be told the spacer is for the knuckle, not the hub. The hub is not used in preload spacer selection, just the knuckle.

Truth be told.....you know what the hell I am talking about....:p

[GenevaDirt]

But we're not done arguing.

I do not see anyone arguing ... I see a discussion.

[WmWatt]

A helpful discussion.

[drddan]

you do not change the spacer when you do a bearing swap...the spacer is for the hub.....the bearings are machined to a much closer tolerance so they are basically the same...one to another. Save the spacer and reuse it when doing the job and if you do it right everything will be fine.

I mentioned that....in post #6

[GenevaDirt]

I mentioned that....in post #6

I know that....but as you see in the post I quoted...I believe #11, they either didn't read it....didn't care....or don't believe it. So I stated it again. There is another thread going also that has some of the same talk going on.