double nut it?
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1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
2005 Accord - wife's DD
2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
2015 F150 SCrew - DD
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grab 2 of the same size nuts taht fit the stud and torque them down, then boolen just the BOTTOM nut. the resulting force on the top nut should lock it in place and it should take the stud out, OR get a stud remover.Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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have you tried to hit it with some heat and then drip penetrating oil on it and then spin it off with some vice grips?Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
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Vice grips may smash and round the threads and then you have just a smooth metal rod. Id try slotting it with a dremel and the $12 diamond wheel and take it out with a screwdriver? PB blast first of course. Id also do the work you need to do with the seals first before spraying metal debris all over. Cover the oil passages and stuff of the head with towels or rags too.1993 GL 5 speed
It's a MazdaFordnKia thing, and you will understand!
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if ya resort to vice grips, I think you can get a better grip with the straight jaw compared the the ones that are curved.
I would guess that you can get more torque our of a vice grip than sloting it and putting a screwdriver in it, even if you put vice grips on the screw driver, my guess is it would just brake off at the bottom of the slot. Not that it isn't worth trying, looks like there is enough stud there to try both methods.
Also, even if you just have a propane torch, that might help. I think you can get them for <$10 at a hardware store. Self igniting ones are more.
Could use a heat gun if you have one of those too, anything to get the aluminum head to expand more than the steel threads.I suck at the internet
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We'd need more information to help.
You took the cam belt off, correct? You had both the crank and cam gear off to replace the seals, correct?'88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back
'92 Geo Metro XFi
'87 Suzuki Samurai
'85 F150, modded 300cid
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