Thanks all, gotta sign off for now. Methinx Harbor Freight is in my future. Slide hammer.
You couldn't do this when I was out that way and had a slide hammer available.
Just replacing the axle due to wear?
'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
I feel your pain Tom-Luckly I've had my 18 to help me.But know he's at football camp. But You really need someone extra. It will come out. Its mind over matter. Seriously you know its not corroded its just physics. And yes my arm was sore for a week also!
Method #1 Have a buddy pulling on the axle as hard and STRAIGHT as they can. Meanwhile use a prybar and hammer and try to get it to pop. They KEY is to keep the axle STRAIGHT.
Method #2 If that dont work use two prybars @ the cup 180 appart. Then have your buddy tap tap tap on the axle cup. The Key is always Keep the whole assembly STAIGHT. If its on an angle its gonna fight you. GOOD LUCK !
PS I've personally have had 100% with both of these methods.
Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know- Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently" Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
Couldn't get them out of my '93 when I was removing the engine so I had to remove engine/trans through the bottom. Awful. Still couldn't get them out of bare trans. Ended up removing inner CV snap ring and pulling out innards. Outer cases are still in trans (make good spider gear holders).
Last edited by georgeb; 08-16-2011, 04:53 PM.
Reason: changed word
There was another thread on this topic. The conclusion was the best way is to tap on the inner housing while pulling. Reportedly works like a charm. I got mine out by putting one foot on the chassis and pulling with both hands while turning. Good luck.
Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.
I've removed quite a few of these and they can be very stubborn. Like Nitro says, keeping them straight is the trick. It's extremely easy to get them in a bind and many times that's what you're fighting instead of the circlip. Typically when I remove an axle I try to use 2 pry bars of the same size and shape, I insert them between the axle and case at 180° apart, then give it the old "1,2,3" and try to snatch them at the exact same time to pop the axle. Usually gets them on the first or second hit, although I've had a few tough ones. The key is even pressure.
Or of it's a bad axle that I don't care about I just push it all the way in to compress it and then give it a very quick and hard pull. This works very well, but not so good for the axle
If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem
Or of it's a bad axle that I don't care about I just push it all the way in to compress it and then give it a very quick and hard pull. This works very well, but not so good for the axle
Yes that works good too.I wonder if its really bad for the axle? I know its not good for the rubber boot for sure. I've been thinking about this topic for a couple of weeks. And two brain storms i have had are.
1) Bearing spliter in between the cup and the case.Just enough tention so you can wack the cup with Hammer
2) Fab up a large tie rod style tool that would take the place of two pry bars.This would leave one hand free to hit cup with a hammer or hold a "Tall Cool Budwieser" :p
There's gotta be a little easier way. I bought a 89 Carby from a kid in Colorado. You should see what he did to the poor Tranny case trying to pull the axle's. It looks like he got REALLY MAD !
Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know- Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently" Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
Yes that works good too.I wonder if its really bad for the axle? I know its not good for the rubber boot for sure. I've been thinking about this topic for a couple of weeks. And two brain storms i have had are.
1) Bearing spliter in between the cup and the case.Just enough tention so you can wack the cup with Hammer
2) Fab up a large tie rod style tool that would take the place of two pry bars.This would leave one hand free to hit cup with a hammer or hold a "Tall Cool Budwieser" :p
There's gotta be a little easier way. I bought a 89 Carby from a kid in Colorado. You should see what he did to the poor Tranny case trying to pull the axle's. It looks like he got REALLY MAD !
I had to patch my tranny because the PO busted a hole in it trying to remove the axle. Never pry on the upper portion of the diff casing.
Yes that works good too.I wonder if its really bad for the axle? I know its not good for the rubber boot for sure. I've been thinking about this topic for a couple of weeks. And two brain storms i have had are.
1) Bearing spliter in between the cup and the case.Just enough tention so you can wack the cup with Hammer
2) Fab up a large tie rod style tool that would take the place of two pry bars.This would leave one hand free to hit cup with a hammer or hold a "Tall Cool Budwieser" :p
There's gotta be a little easier way. I bought a 89 Carby from a kid in Colorado. You should see what he did to the poor Tranny case trying to pull the axle's. It looks like he got REALLY MAD !
I'm not sure if it's really so bad for the axle unless it would pop the inner retaining ring that holds one of the CV's together. I'd say it's definitely detrimental to the boot
I like the idea of the bearing splitter. May have to try that one out :thumbup:
Per idea #2; I thought about a big "pickle fork" too, but since they work on an inclined plane I wondered if it would still try to bind the axle to one side. Unless you're talking about making one that is flat and just fits behind the cup so you could pry with one hand and tap with the other. I could see that working and making it much easier
Or possibly radius the back side so it would slide in straight/flat and then apply even pressure when you pried with it.
If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem
I used a prybar and put tension on the inner housing and the tranny. Then used the light repeated tapping with a hammer and pop goes the axle. No effort or swore arms.
Gonna get on it tmw morning. Was consulting last night with Dr. Don Dax, superchemist/crimefighter extraordinaire, who came up with a method of using the hub/knuckle itself as a slide hammer. If it is successful, I'll report so and how I did it.
90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!
You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand Disaster preparedness
Gonna get on it tmw morning. Was consulting last night with Dr. Don Dax, superchemist/crimefighter extraordinaire, who came up with a method of using the hub/knuckle itself as a slide hammer. If it is successful, I'll report so and how I did it.
You just want to be carefull that way cuz you can start making metal shavings in the tranny. Try grabbing the knuckle and bracing your feet. Pull like crazy while someone also hits and also prys on the cup.... Dont let that 50 cent circlip beat ya Zanzer ! Good luck :headbang:
Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know- Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently" Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
I think God is pissed at me because I don't believe in Him.
Who says God doesn't have a sense of humor.
OK, i have removed axles both ways, try pushing the axle all the way in, firmly grab it, yank and twist left, then right, then back left, this usally gets the clip to reseat and release the axle. Good luck
An idea can turn to dust or magic, depending on the talent that rubs against it.
'93 Blue 5spd 230K(down for clutch and overall maintanence)
'93 White B6 swap thanks to Skeeters Keeper
'92 Aqua parts Car
'93 Turquoise 5spd 137K
'90 White LX Thanks to FB71
"Your God of repentance will not save you.
Your holy ghost will not save you.
Your God plutonium will not save you.
In fact...
...You will not be saved!"
I've only had 2 bad ones so far. Luckily both were in transmissions where the trans was being removed anyway and were easier to work with once the trans was out of the car. One was a hinky circlip and the other one I actually bolted the trans to my metal welding table via the bellhousing. That made it way easier to pry on the axle :mrgreen:
Also, I just remembered that both problem axles were driver's side. Coincidence?
If a hammer doesn't fix it you have an electrical problem
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