Aspire CV axle removal

[neanderpaul]

Run your finger around the hole in the transmission. See if you can feel any nicks, cracks, chips, scratches.

[FestYboy]

also, if the seal wasn't seated straight, the actual sealing surface will be skewed and will cause a leak. And, if the seal is installed properly, there can still be a leak due to defect OR scuffing the seal by not lubing the unput shaft before insertion.

i type slow...

[TominMO]

My bad. If you damaged the surface the seal sits in it can cause it to leak.

I tried to be careful; lubed the seal where it would contact the axle; and lubed the axle where the seal would go on too, to make it all slide easily, with no friction to bind the seal up. Maybe something will be obvious when I closely inspect it tmw.

[neanderpaul]

My bad. If you damaged the surface the seal sits in it can cause it to leak.

[TominMO]

Damaging the seal when removing the axle will cause it to leak. It happened to me on my axle thread thread.

This is a new seal I put in after removing the old axle, then I installed the new axle.

[neanderpaul]

Damaging the seal when removing the axle will cause it to leak. It happened to me on my axle thread thread.

[TominMO]

Latest issue. I notice that the Aspire's new driver's side axle seal is leaking. Tmw I will pull the speedo drive to see how much. I have about 200+ miles on the car since I did the axle.

What would make it leak? Just trying to get some ideas to speed things up a little tmw, and not be reinventing the wheel so much.

The new pass. side seal seems nice and dry BTW.

[TominMO]

I was worried about hitting the axel hub nut cause i thought it might damage the joints, or bind something..but it might work! If you hold your tongue just right when you hit the inner cup with a rubber mallet it doesnt take any real force to get it started.. just a little tap. Those clips are such a PITA.. I cant wait to replace my clutch in a couple weeks, i might end up having to find a little tool like you used. I wonder how much slide pull hammers cost at HF.

My HF slide hammer was $60.

[zoom zoom]

I was worried about hitting the axel hub nut cause i thought it might damage the joints, or bind something..but it might work! If you hold your tongue just right when you hit the inner cup with a rubber mallet it doesnt take any real force to get it started.. just a little tap. Those clips are such a PITA.. I cant wait to replace my clutch in a couple weeks, i might end up having to find a little tool like you used. I wonder how much slide pull hammers cost at HF.

[TominMO]

tom, for future referance, don't take the new CV apart as it isn't nessisary. when you get the new CV, remove the circlip and compress it so that when it's installed, the clip is flush with the O.D. of the splines or just slightly further out. then start the splines into the trans and take a mini-sledge (BFH) to the outside joint where the nut goes and smack that untill the inner seats. it shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 hits to get it to sink.

Thanks; actually I did that at first on the driver's side, but thought better of it after a couple of hits. I was concerned that I would screw up the roller bearings on the outboard CV. But you're saying this is not a problem.

Zoom x2: apparently 104, so far.

[FestYboy]

2:
1) how do i get this axle out?

2) get a bigger hammer...

[zoom zoom]

#102

Trick question time..

How many internet forum posts does it take to change a driveaxel?

[FestYboy]

tom, for future referance, don't take the new CV apart as it isn't nessisary. when you get the new CV, remove the circlip and compress it so that when it's installed, the clip is flush with the O.D. of the splines or just slightly further out. then start the splines into the trans and take a mini-sledge (BFH) to the outside joint where the nut goes and smack that untill the inner seats. it shouldn't take more than 2 or 3 hits to get it to sink.

[TominMO]

An update: did the passenger CV. Couldn't get my homemade tool in there, so I just used half of it (i.e. one L-shaped bracket), and it worked just as well. Took six taps with the slide hammer to get it out. Again, I took the inner boot off and just had to deal with the bare cup itself; this gave me a straight shot with the slide hammer.

To install the new CV, I removed the large clip on the inner boot and pulled out the guts. Then I tapped on the end of the inner cup with the top of my BFH, which turned out to be the easiest way to tap on it, because of the exhaust downpipe being there. Reassembled the inner CV, with a zip tie on the boot.

[TominMO]

OK, installed the new driver's CV. The rubber hammer didn't work; not enough weight, or room to swing it. I pulled the guts out of the inner CV cup, and tapped the empty cup a few times with my trusty BFH. That did the trick. Then reassembled the inner CV with zip ties on the boot.

Doing the passenger CV tmw. Should go far quicker with all the experience I've gotten on the other one!