Aspire CV axle removal

[zoom zoom]

You should see my rubber mallet, the thing is probably 10+ years old and dryrotted all to %$*# ... Every time i hit something pieces fly off it lol.

[neanderpaul]

Nice solution!

[TominMO]

Just get the splines started, when it comes time for the clip to go in push it tight and keep pressure while you hit the cup with a rubber mallet. Its not hard to get back in..once that clip starts it slides in the rest of the way easy.

Thanks, I'll try it Monday. Going out of town for the weekend.

[zoom zoom]

Just get the splines started, when it comes time for the clip to go in push it tight and keep pressure while you hit the cup with a rubber mallet. Its not hard to get back in..once that clip starts it slides in the rest of the way easy.

[TominMO]

OK, I got the Aspire driver's axle out. I used my slide hammer, plus a contraption I made out of $6.50 in parts fom the hardware store, to fit behind the inner cup. It consists of two L-shaped flat brackets, 3" on each side, held together by two 6" long 1/4" bolts. They fit into one of the accessories that come with any slide hammer. One side of one bracket is cut down to fit behind the "northwest" part of the driver's side axle cup, which is very restricted in space. (I used lug nuts as washers because I didn't have any large washers handy.) I had to slightly drill out the bracket holes to 1/4". The axle came out on the fourth strike with the slide hammer. I was using light to medium strikes. To get my tool on, I had to put the cut-down L bracket on with the two bolts, on the NW side, then thread the non-cut bracket onto the two bolts.

Now my question is: how do you get the new axle in? Do you tap on the inner cup with a BFH? I didn't want to try tapping on the end of the shaft for fear of damaging the outer CV bearings. I replaced the seal and have the circlip facing up, as Haynes sez to do. The inner end of the axle, where the circlip is, is well greased.

Here is a pic of the tool I built:

[mgg1]

The OEM CV axles that were in my Festiva and Aspire had positive stops that allowed me to compress the joint and jerk real hard and they would come right out with no issues.

The after market and rebuilt shafts that I used as replacements did not have a positive stop and pulling on them would have ripped the inner boot by yanking on them.

To remove the axles to replace leaking axle seals I placed the front of the car on jack stands with 2 floor jacks as back up fall protection and chocked the rear tires front and back.
To remove the driver side CV shaft I placed a large good quality ball joint separator fork between the transaxle and the large inner hub of the CV shaft between the cradle and transaxle.
I snugly supported the end of the ball joint separator fork off the floor with a wood block and had the shaft positioned to have no obstruction in front of it.
I then used a large 10 lb sledge hammer head as a battering ram from the side of the car and stiffly hit the ball joint separator and the shaft popped right out.

On the passenger side I used a medium size flat ended wrecking bar and pried with a quick snatch between the CV axle and the transaxle torque arm boss and the shaft popped right out.

[neanderpaul]

Same tool, better price. The cheapest I found it for was $68ish on amazon.

[nitrofarm]

Found the same for $35.00 but cant figure out how to purchase it?!

http://www.quaware.com/AZATE-25537.html

[nitrofarm]

For $75.00 this one looks real tempting

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/WESTWARD-Inner-Puller-Set-1EKN3?cm_sp=IO-_-IDP-_-RR_VTV70300505&cm_vc=IDPRRZ1

[TominMO]

Thanks Paul! I talked to Greg about this lat week, and he mentioned he did a similar process, but he used straps. I'm gonna try using a tiedown later this week with the slide hammer I recently bought. Failing that, I see that it is possible to buy just the CV attachment for a slide hammer; just need to get one with the right thread for your slide hammer.

[neanderpaul]

Nope. Thanks for the heads up.

[FestYboy]

Paul, did you compress the circlip before re-installing it in the trans? if not, you'll be up for the same fight later.

[neanderpaul]

And this is the real tool you want. I'm glad mine worked but I'd like to have this. It should make life a lot easier. http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/OTC...t-Puller-2TVR1

[neanderpaul]

I was in your shoes Tom. With a man trans festiva. 5 hours or so of wedging, chiseling, prying, pulling, two at a time. ETC ETC :angry1: This morning I solved it. I wanted a slide hammer. Advance has them but not the c part Jay mentioned. I found the tool online but couldn't get it in time. Deadline was tomorrow morning. So I made this....


One cable on each side for even pressure. I made sure to pull perfectly straight. I had already tried unsuccessfully at a slight angle when something was in my way. So I moved said thing and pulled straight. I had about 4 feet of slack in the cable too for a long stroke. I also put the "big tuning fork" that I had been using to pry between the cross member and the trans to support the trans and prevent the motor and trans mounts from absorbing the shock and stealing the force I was exerting. I yanked and on the 4th or 5th pull she popped out. Mine was stuck so fiercely because it is brand new. Last week new axle, same day new seal leak. Today I got it out, replaced the seal and it's back on.

[Zanzer]

^^ Meh....if that's the closest I ever come to death, I'll be around for a looong time :p