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CV wont fit into 5 speed trans!

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  • #31
    This is the stuff that fell out yesterday. From what I understand that has already been posted, the bearings go into the holes with the springs, but where does the little pin go?



    To begin removing the syncros and gears, do I have to remove the springs and bearings first? I have no clue where to even start taking things apart.


    2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
    1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
    1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

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    • #32
      Ok, that was one of the things I told you about, those balls and the springs associated with them. You should have taken all of the bolts out first, the obvious ones around the trans case, but also the ones that hold those balls and springs in directly across from those shift shafts. There will be three of them total. You'll need to remove the shift gate completely. Very easy except for the one bolt, which having a gear wrench with a pivoting box head would help. Once you pull the gate out then see if the reverse gear will come out for you by removing the bolts on it's arm. It's that arm that works kind of like a see saw!? The shift shafts have drift pins going through the shift forks, you'll want to take pictures at this point so you can compare when reassembling so you can remember. which shafts and which forks go together in which holes.
      Drive the drift pins out and be carefull, the forks are aluminum. You'll need to slide the shift rods out of the forks in order to remove the forks before you pull the gear clusters.
      There's a little pin about 3/8 long at the bottom of those 3 shift shafts, watch for it.
      Also, what's this talk about syncros? You aren't taking any syncros apart. They're on the gear clusters and there's no reason to remove them, you'll be pulling the entire gear cluster shaft straight up and out together leaving all of the gears where they are. Then you'll place them back into their coresponding spots again, then the forks, then the shafts down throught the forks, then the drift pins back into the forks. Unless you pulled that magnet out and cleaned it off already and put it back, that trans seem to be in pretty good shape! Next time don't let these guy's goad you into taking stuff apart till you get some guidance first, that way you won't cause any eareparable damage to anything.
      Last edited by iceracerdude; 09-19-2011, 05:05 PM.
      97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
      CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
      Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed

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      • #33
        Originally posted by jjk1224 View Post
        This is the stuff that fell out yesterday. From what I understand that has already been posted, the bearings go into the holes with the springs, but where does the little pin go?


        Alright, if you look into those holes the shafts came out of in this picture, I can still see the ends of two of the three springs. Remove the bolts holding them in and tag which spring goes with which bolt and hole, The balls ride on the ends of these springs. The balls are all identical, (interchangable) the springs are all different sizes and must go back in their correct spots. These go back in last thing, yes even after the case bolts.
        Pick up some RTV gray, or ultra gray for the reassembly, as well as a torque wrench.
        97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
        CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
        Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed

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        • #34
          I did in fact clean the magnet off. The fluid was very dirty, a brownish color, and it was hard to even tell the magnet was a magnet at first. At first I was under the impression that the gear clusters needed to come apart, thank god that is not the case. I take it that the little 3/8ths pin is the one in my first picture? I still cant figure out where it came from.
          Thank you again for the information!
          2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
          1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
          1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

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          • #35
            I have the trans all the way down to the shift rods, forks, and gear clusters. When you say to remove the pins from the rods, do I need to remove all of them, or just the ones on the top two aluminum forks?
            2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
            1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
            1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

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            • #36
              All of them, remember the reason you're doing this is so that you can slide the fork rods straight up and out, then remove the forks, then the gear clusters, in that order. First remove the remaining springs, bolts, and balls, otherwise that last one will fight the removal of that third shift shaft. Did you remember to take pictures of this complete assembly beforeyou startedaking it apart? Did you get the shift gate out of the way? That third bolt is a bugger huh.
              Last edited by iceracerdude; 09-20-2011, 04:38 PM.
              97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
              CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
              Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed

              Comment


              • #37


                I removed the c-clip from the shift gate and took it apart to reveal the last screw after fighting with it for about 15 min. The pins are proving to be a little difficult to remove, but soon enough I will have this thing in pieces.
                2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
                1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
                1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

                Comment


                • #38
                  This tutorial should become a Sticky, unless some bonehead intrrupts with a bunch of,,,err,,,err.....okay, okay I'm out of here.
                  '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

                  '92 Geo Metro XFi

                  '87 Suzuki Samurai

                  '85 F150, modded 300cid

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                  • #39
                    I have everything apart, in the morning I am going to clean the case and parts good and re-assemble it. I am still lost as to where that smaller pin needs to go, and where do I need to put the other 3/8" pin? I am glad my nightmare is almost finally over. Working on transmissions is one of the only things automotive related I have always been in the dark about. I want to thank everyone who helped and directly or indirectly convinced me to tackle this project. At this point there is not a single part of my festy that I have not put a wrench to!
                    2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
                    1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
                    1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

                    Comment


                    • #40
                      Originally posted by jjk1224 View Post
                      Ok in this picture, down at the bottom left near the edge about an inch from one of the case bolt holes, and just across from the shift shafts, is that small hole facing down.
                      I believe that's where that slender pin came from. Did you find that second, shorter, fatter pin between the two shift shafts?
                      97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
                      CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
                      Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed

                      Comment


                      • #41
                        Originally posted by BigElCat View Post
                        This tutorial should become a Sticky
                        X2... nice to see all the pics and instructions from iceracer. Hopefully soon I'll be attempting to build two good MTXs out of two broken ones and a third one that is completely torn down (but supposedly complete) that I'll be scavenging for parts.
                        No festiva for me ATM...

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                        • #42
                          Originally posted by iceracerdude View Post
                          Ok in this picture, down at the bottom left near the edge about an inch from one of the case bolt holes, and just across from the shift shafts, is that small hole facing down.
                          I believe that's where that slender pin came from. Did you find that second, shorter, fatter pin between the two shift shafts?
                          Yes, It sort of just fell out like you said it would, I did not get a good look at where it came from.
                          2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
                          1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
                          1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

                          Comment


                          • #43
                            Good job!, it's all pretty easy from here on in. Just go slow and be carefull. Did you ever pick up a proper drift pin punch, or think to make one out of a junk philips screwdriver?
                            97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
                            CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
                            Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed

                            Comment


                            • #44
                              Originally posted by iceracerdude View Post
                              I actually have a Ford factory manual on cd, and it showed me how to completely disassemble, and reassemble it step by step. I've made copies of that cd and have sold several of them here and at the aspire site.
                              what is the full name for this CD? if it's not yet on torrents we should upload it, should not we?
                              rusEfi - DIY ECU
                              93 EFI: tach cluster, aspire mirrors & spindles. ZX2 master cylinder, BP+G25 swap with a door hinge, rio struts. 205/50r15, 140mph speedometer,rear disk brakes, mini cooper + subaru front brakes rear sway bar

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