Floor reinforcement replacement - help

[fstamand]

Looking to replace a very rusty floor reinforcement (brace). It's like a rail near the brake lines on the left portion of the floors.

Any clues on how to find this part? what is the correct name for it?

It's required to pass a safety check

:pottytrain5:

[Pu241]

A pic would help.

[georgeb]

Will probably have to be fabricated out of box tubing. Don't think replacement structural sections are available for Festivas like they are for classic cars.

[fstamand]

best I could find, stole this from another member (thanks)

[nitrofarm]

For sure you can fab that up from some rectangular tubing. I dont think you'll find it available new. I def would just get some tubing and do both sides & be done with it.

[Pu241]

Thanks that helps a lot.

I have to agree with georgeb, they are likely not available.
You will have to fab up your own.
But, it would be a fine time to improve over the OEM while your at it.

[fstamand]

Will do. got a nice miller mig with a tank full of argon
Tempted to tip the beast on its side to help weld. Any pros/cons of doing this? Will fuel seep through the interior ?

[nitrofarm]

Will do. got a nice miller mig with a tank full of argon
Tempted to tip the beast on its side to help weld. Any pros/cons of doing this? Will fuel seep through the interior ?

Not needed,just make a template out of thick construction paper that is the same width of the tubing. Lay it on the floor board.Mark it with a sharpie.Cut out this section and weld it up. Looks like you'll want to "notch" the tubing to get it to bend upwards. Then fill in these notch's with triangles made from the same tubing walls. When you cut measure twice. Youll want your hole to be on the small side. Then get in there with a 90 die grinder.You want the tubing to fit like a glove in the hole. Then do lots of spot welds.The floor is thin,spot welding will just make it easier. Use 23 wire not 35. 35 is to thick and will make it a lot more difficult. Make sure you get rid of as much corrosion as possible. Also have the tubing "flush" with the bottom as much as possible.Meaning when you look at it from underneath.The tubing wont be sticking to much past the floor. Just out of curiosity how are the "Rocker" panels?

[shadetree]

Rockers and rear axle mounts ??

[Pu241]

Tempted to tip the beast on its side to help weld. Any pros/cons of doing this? Will fuel seep through the interior ?

It shouldn't, but the tank has a drain bolt so if you decide to do this you can remove most of the fuel first.

[fstamand]

Ok thanks.

[fstamand]

Rockers and rear axle mounts ??

they are fine. Just a small section of the floor rail/reinforcement that rusted through.

[fstamand]

Not needed,just make a template out of thick construction paper that is the same width of the tubing. Lay it on the floor board.Mark it with a sharpie.Cut out this section and weld it up.

I really really appreciate your detailed post, nitrofarm. I scored some square tubing that is exactly the same width/height as the stock rail.

I need more info regarding this portion of your message, would you expand a bit ? What do you mean by bent upwards?

Looks like you'll want to "notch" the tubing to get it to bend upwards. Then fill in these notch's with triangles made from the same tubing walls. When you cut measure twice. Youll want your hole to be on the small side. Then get in there with a 90 die grinder.

Right now I removed the 2ft length that was rotten. I cut it square, perpendicular with the floor. I was planning on using the square tubing, cut it tight and use sheet metal (bent in 90, like wings) to spot weld at the floor.

[DriverOne]

That's the frame. You're going to want more than just spot welds. Make sure the floor sits correctly when you weld. Good luck.

[fstamand]

curiously enough, the original one is also spot welded at the 90* angles :eeeeeek: every 1 1/2 inches

You're right though, I'll try do do a continuous, hopefully it won't weaken the floor