Timing belt replacement issue

[ch4no21986]

Ok, so I've been having an issue with acceleration. Usually in 2nd and 3rd is when it happens, push the throttle down and it hesitates before it gets power back. I looked up in several posts here what might be causing that, seems one of the main points is the timing might be off.
I got the water pump pulley off, upper timing cover pulled, had the car jacked up to get to the lower pulleys. When I went to get a socket on the crankshaft nut, I found that it would go on there, but no room whatsoever to get a breaker bar or ratchet on there. I could get a box end on there, but couldn't get enough leverage to break it loose. I even tried going both ways on it, thinking it might be a lefty thread.
I know the timing can be checked without taking all that apart, but from the way the belt looks, it really needs to be replaced. I saw one person post about removing the engine mount and jacking it up on the back end, thus dropping the front of the engine down.

[shadetree]

You will need to take the three nuts off on the front engine mount and drop the front of the engine down . Just put a jack under the engine or a hoist on it to let it down with ..

[georgeb]

Supposedly you can remove the pulleys from the hub and not have to mess with the big (1 and 1/8) bolt. That's not the way it is on my late '93; I had to remove the big bolt by lowering the pass side and using an impact wrench. But my manuals say to remove 4 10mm bolts and a couple phillips screws and the pulleys come off, allowing access to the bottom sprocket. Hope yours is that way.

[shadetree]

Correct !!! But the year was not mentioned !

[boydg1]

.... Don't forget, there is a side flywheel cover attached to the fender / frame that can be removed for easier access. I think, it's 2 or 3 either 10mm or 12mm bolts to remove. That will expose approximately half the flywheel. At this point you should be able to get a socket and flex extension on there and brake it loose. I'm assuming you already have the car off the ground and the right front tire removed.
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[WmWatt]

In an earlier thread chno21986 says he has an '88 so there is no need to remove the crankshaft bolt. Just remove the pulleys by removing the Phillips head screws. Careful not to wreck the heads on the screws. I use the big Phillips head in the socket set. It fits snug. On my '89 the pulley would not drop out between the block and fender until I shifted the engine by sticking a prybar in the motor mount on the fender and giving it a push.

[ch4no21986]

In an earlier thread chno21986 says he has an '88 so there is no need to remove the crankshaft bolt. Just remove the pulleys by removing the Phillips head screws. Careful not to wreck the heads on the screws. I use the big Phillips head in the socket set. It fits snug. On my '89 the pulley would not drop out between the block and fender until I shifted the engine by sticking a prybar in the motor mount on the fender and giving it a push.

Thanks Wm, this sounds much easier than having to mess around with moving the engine. I do remember when I was under there that I could feel the heads of some screws in the inner pulley. I am going to have to wait until I can find a timing cover to replace the one that's on there before I get back into it. I'm also not sure if I should replace the tensioner while it's taken apart or not.

[blkfordsedan]

There are two different kinds of timing:
A) valve timing
B) Ignition timing

The valve timing is a correlation between the camshaft and crankshaft via the timing belt. Its not adjustable and never really gets "off"...its either correct or it isn't. The only way it can get "off" is if someone changed the belt and was off by a tooth, or if the belt jumps a tooth which is highly unlikely. Usually the belt just strips all the teeth or breaks. Even being off by one tooth is quite a bit in terms of degrees. If it does happen, there is a noticeable difference in engine response and performance through the entire operating range- more than just a temporary hesitation during acceleration. (Actually, it can be adjusted by use of special adjustable sprockets, but that is done to fine tune the rpm range of the engines powerband, and that's way beyond the scope of what you're doing).

Ignition timing is commonly adjusted as part of typical tune-up protocol and is the timing of the spark event in relationship to the location of the piston on the compression stroke. The ignition timing is adjusted by simply turning the distributor while using a timing light to view the crank position.

I believe you got them confused and the "timing" you researched is ignition timing, which has nothing to do with valve timing or the timing belt. However, if the belt has never been replaced then this is a perfect time to do it. Just don't expect it to solve your hesitation issues.

[nitrofarm]

Thanks Wm, this sounds much easier than having to mess around with moving the engine. I do remember when I was under there that I could feel the heads of some screws in the inner pulley. I am going to have to wait until I can find a timing cover to replace the one that's on there before I get back into it. I'm also not sure if I should replace the tensioner while it's taken apart or not.

Just make sure when put those three screws back in. You get them nice and tight. Might want to use a drop of blue on em as well.

[georgeb]

I incorrectly stated on an earlier post that the pulley bolt was 1 and 1/8 inch but that is the size of the spindle nut. The pulley bolt is 21mm or 13/16.