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Frozen strut mounting boltw

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  • Frozen strut mounting boltw

    My rear strut bottom mounting bolts seem frozen. I tried some "Blaster" but they still don't seem to move. Any ideas?

  • #2
    Keep soaking with the p b blaster. The other option is heat, but that's kinda dangerous.
    Im not driving a Festiva because I'm poor. I drive a Festiva because i want to!

    Dennis
    93 L Advancedynamics suspension mod, awaiting B6 swap
    91 GL B6 sohc, currently in the hands of DAE undergoing top secret work. Soon to be cable G, with stage 3 F1 Kevlar clutch... To be continued
    93 GL In progress BP/hydro G
    15 Mitsubishi Mirage daily
    88 Dakota tow pig

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    • #3
      if you find that after a week or so if "blasting" it, the bolt is still frozen (not uncommon), you can remove the strut with a 3' cut-off wheel and a large punch.

      remove the offending wheel, then cut the bottom of the strut bushing loop as close to the vront of the BOTTOM of the support "loop" as you can and then again just above the rear of the support "loop" esentially cutting the bottom strut ring in half. remove the piece and then push down on the axle and remove the rest of the strut. the bushing and inner collar and frozen bolt are still on the axle. cut the head off the bolt from the outside of the "loop" and then carefuly cut between the collar and the main arm of the axle from below (may require several sizes of wheels, BUT, now you can rotate the bushing and cut a little at a time from the bottom. eventually you'll be able to pop the bushing out. once that's done, take your punch and wack off the welded nut inside the axle. replace with a lock nut and grade 8 bolt slathered in anti-sieze.
      Trees aren't kind to me...

      currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
      94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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      • #4
        are you soaking the threads that are hidden inside the beam too?

        whatever you do, follow festyboy's post above.

        do NOT cut the beam. any part of the beam. just the strut

        it's pretty common that the bolt gets corroded inside the sleeve. it's such a pain. I have more than a lifetime supply of anti-seize in each bolt haha

        I'd be curious to know if hitting some of the components in there with a mini sledge will break up some cohesion and loosen things up a tad. like with old screws and bolts sometimes...who knows
        Walth

        Festiva #1: 91 Red L 4/5
        http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27981

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        • #5



          It was hell man.

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          • #6
            heat, p b blaster, heat , p b blaster, more heat , low impact setting and try, more heat, more pb just don't get mad cause it will break and then you just see a bolt head on the floor and then the crying starts, then the drill and welder...

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            • #7
              So are the meatl sleeve & rubber bushing available? I read that people are cutting them up to get at the bolt. Jus wondering cuz I know its in my future plans.....
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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              • #8
                ^ they are part of the strut
                Trees aren't kind to me...

                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                  ^ they are part of the strut
                  Thanks, makes sense-
                  Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                  Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                  Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I used a 2 ft extension pipe and full body weight on a T-bar socket driver with an impact socket, pumping on the pipe until the nut broke free. Crack! is the noise the nut makes when it starts to turn. I also recommend using a wire brush to clean the threads in addition to the penetrating oil. Photos at http://ww.photobucket.com/festiva-frontwheel and start at photo #63.
                    Last edited by WmWatt; 09-28-2011, 11:59 AM.
                    Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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                    • #11
                      wow, nice work WmWatt, I only got through 1-2 pages of your album but looks great!!
                      Walth

                      Festiva #1: 91 Red L 4/5
                      http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27981

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