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Those down pipe nuts come off easy if you get at them with PB Blaster and soak them for a day. That plus a lot of extensions on an impact wrench make it a simple task.
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Ok. There is still oil getting into the coolant
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I haven't drove the car in a couple of days. I just emptied the radiator out and ran water trough it until it was clear. Put plug back in and refilled. I see how she does tomorrow
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Agree with Walth and everything else. Valve cover gasket is a major source of oil leakage. If you paid $250 for your, it leaks. I paid over 10x that for my new one (worth it to me for the body shell alone) and I'm still planning to change the VC gasket soon and I'm not complaining about that. There ought to be a head set available that has head gasket, VC [gasket + bolt seals], & exhaust seal. If you're fuel-injected, make sure the set has a throttle body gasket, too. Also, I've never unbolted a down pipe from the manifold without resort to a torch to heat the nuts first. If you've never done this before, you may have a problem, so then go the route of unbolting the manifold. Last time I did that I just used the old gasket and had no problems on that account.
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unless you overheated pretty severely...nothing should be bad but the headgasket.
any loss of power? just curious...
has anyone said in this thread, start the car and take off the radiator cap and see if you get bubbles?
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No. I did a flush couple of months after I got it and didn't have oil in it.Originally posted by walth View Postyeah, guess you're right. I don't know much yet about cracked things though. doing some "symtoms" checks on google may help you narrow that out!! not too sure.
Since it has been losing oil from before ownership, has the car also been having oil in the coolant system since then too? It's hard to say for sure if it was ran hot, etc.
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yeah, guess you're right. I don't know much yet about cracked things though. doing some "symtoms" checks on google may help you narrow that out!! not too sure.
Since it has been losing oil from before ownership, has the car also been having oil in the coolant system since then too? It's hard to say for sure if it was ran hot, etc.
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yeah I replaced the oil pan gasket without removing the downtube and it was more than a headache. if you can remove the DT it'll be a lot better
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Yep, you can do your cam shaft seals and distributor O-ring. You can also do your front crankshaft main seal before you set the timing, but you'd have to take off the transmission to reach the rear crankshaft main seal.
The only other places the oil could leak from are the oil filter, oil pan gasket or the valve cover gasket.
Oil filter is simple.
Valve cover gasket is easy peasy.
Oil pan gasket is a pain.Last edited by crazyrog17; 09-27-2011, 09:16 PM.
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yeah I had asked that on page 2/3 but I didn't want to pressure. I think it's a great idea to change some of that stuff.Originally posted by walth View Postare you planning to replace anything else? water pump? timing tensioner? timing belt? cam seal and crank seal? just a thought...will take more time but may save you down the road.
Nate did a rebuild for a guy and all the parts he bought cost about 200 bucks. I don't know everything he bought. you could PM skeeters keeper for some info.
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I understand. But what I meant was. Would it be easier to go head and do more while in there workingOriginally posted by walth View Postleaking oil out of seals, rings, and gaskets is one thing
leaking oil into the coolant system is another
to fix that (which needs to be done sooner than later) you'll have to do the HG
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leaking oil out of seals, rings, and gaskets is one thing
leaking oil into the coolant system is another
to fix that (which needs to be done sooner than later) you'll have to do the HG
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Its been using or leaking oil since I've had it.
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