Car just clicks

[91blufestiva]

Ok, so this has been a problem for a little while now. One night after work I came out and the car just clicked when I tried to turn it over, well eventually, she started up and it was fine and didn't act up for a few weeks, now last saturday, it did it again, I was at the bank, so I had a buddy push me so I jumped the clutch. I replaced the starter from the parts car, I tried it, clicked, after a couple turns with the key, it started, and was fine until last night again, it's back to clicking instead of turning over. I'm assuming there is a loose ground or something somewhere, but I have no idea where to start looking.

Thanks in advance for all your help guys, it is MUCH appreciated.

[blkfordsedan]

You have a bad battery cable or connection. Check the connection where the battery cable end attaches to the cable. Sometimes there is corrosion inside the cable, where you can't see it. I bet if you install new cables and make sure all connections are good & clean, you'll solve your problem.

[FestYboy]

^ yup

[91blufestiva]

Ok next weekend I will install new cables. The day before I left for Ohiostiva, I did put on brand new cable ends, but now I'll replace the whole thing.

Thanks guys!

[darrenryall]

x3.. bad connection somewhere. Was happening to me on a different vehicle until I took a bunch of copper wire and wrapped the terminals on the post, and then the connector. Never happened on that car after that.

[georgeb]

How old is the battery? Swap another into it if possible.

[91blufestiva]

Battery is just a year or so old

[bravekozak]

I never had a clicking problem, but I replaced my battery cable because it was frayed.



I cut off the insulation to see how badly it frayed over the years. Unbelievable.

[ryanprins13]

I never had a clicking problem, but I replaced my battery cable because it was frayed.



I cut off the insulation to see how badly it frayed over the years. Unbelievable.

He probably figured it out by now or sold the car. but that is one frayed cable!

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[bravekozak]

I only paid $7.93 with shipping for E8BZ-14300-A.
Engine cranks strong and starts instantly now.

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

I'm having a similar problem with my WA 88LX. Somebody (before I purchased in 2003) has previously replaced the factory cable ends with clamp-on (with hex-head bolts) aftermarket stuff. I've periodically been removing these and cleaning the wire strands as best I can. See attached photos.

It's time to fix this properly!

bravekozak, it seems that p/n E8BZ-14300-A is just for the negative terminal (connecting to the frame and then on to the gearbox). I find that on eBay for about $25. I want to buy about 3 of these -- where did you get them for under $10 each?

What about for the positive terminal? This doesn't seem to be a separate cable -- instead, it goes into a wire bundle. So how do I "replace" this? There's simply no slack left, even if I lift up a bit on that section of the harness. This LX is one of my "long distance" cars, so I need a solution that's not going to crap out in the middle of nowhere!

[ryanprins13]

Brave can give you better answers but is your battery too tall perhaps? I can share with you what i did. Check out post #37 in my build thread https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?url...7&share_type=t
I took the oem end off but i cut it to not loose any copper wire. I bought an end that came with the proper amount of sodder in it and soddered it on. I had slid double wall head shrink down it first and slid that over once it cooled. There was 3 wires in there iirc so its difficult to replace them all. Photos of the soldering and final product are in that post #37

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[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

My battery (I use the same manufacturer/model in all of my Festies) is exactly 8" tall.

I looked at your post #37 -- that's industrial-strength work like I see on aircraft, even little puddle-hoppers.

I can at most pull the positive cable end up about 1". I suspect that whoever cut off the original fitting prior to 2003 took some wire with it. On the other hand, I checked one of my other WA LXs with original wiring and it doesn't really have any more slack, and still has the protective rubber "boot."

I'll track down solder-filled battery cable ends -- is there a size number or even part number I should ask for (e.g. at Napa or O'Reilly)? I'll also scarf up a much larger soldering iron than I usually use (for working on circuit boards). If the brick-and-mortar guys can't help, do you have an online source for both the fitting and double-wall heat shrink (which I've never heard of before)?

I will still buy plug-and-play ground cables, hopefully for $10 or so each if Brave responds. If one member of my fleet needs one, they probably all do.

[bravekozak]

I got my cable on eBay too. The Festiva battery posts are smaller than North American ones.
Regular terminals will not close tight enough.
I will try and find the size again.

[ryanprins13]

Thanks! Its too bad if your wires were cut shorter... iirc there are 3 wires in that bundle so its a bit hard to replace all 3 but it could be done. I looked at all my old photos and went out to look at the car but the size of the battery post is covered by my heat shrink and i cant read it in the photos. What i did is i measured with calipers the size of all 3 wires twisted togeather and figured out what awg size that would be. But i also added a 4awg wire to that so it was pretty huge and wouldnt be the same as yours anyway.

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