Lower ball joint boot

[Pgh5spd]

I guess that's redundant since there's no upper ball joint, but anyway, does anyone have a source for lower ball joint boots? FMS doesn't seem to have them but I'm pretty sure I once bought some elsewhere. My joints are fine now, but the boots are split. The ball joints would last a lot longer if I could replace the boots now.

[roycehof]

You will have to do a search on this forum, but I know Energy Suspension makes a boot that will fit the ball joint on these cars

[roycehof]

From an old Skeeter Keeper posting - The ball joint boot is energy suspension part#9.13101. Good Luck!

[nitrofarm]

From an old Skeeter Keeper posting - The ball joint boot is energy suspension part#9.13101. Good Luck!

Thats for the tie Rod. I dont think they are the same?

[eurotiva]

It is cheaper to replace the whole lower control arm.

[walth]

As long as your ball joints are good it's worth buying the boots.

I think I picked up some from an auto zone for about 2-3 bucks per pair (the ones skeeter told me about). They're red and fit the ball joint well and are a touch big on the outer tie rod ends.

[Bert]

I couldn't get a perfectly good Aspire tie-rod loose yesterday while doing a wheel alignment and wound up using a splitter tool. Of course the boot developed a split and do you think boot replacements are available in Canada (I tried numerous sources). No. You US folks that suspect that Canadians are being gouged on parts; generic Aspire tie-rod ends ranged from $39-54 and the Moog variety best price was $129. Curious to hear about US prices, and that someone (does Auto Zone ship?) actually sells replacement boots. While all this was going on I did also discover the inner tie-rod was 'cooked'. The Haynes Festy/Aspire manual is very silent about this curious part and I did remove the boot on it to see what that business looks like before ordering another one.

[Pgh5spd]

Thanx Walth, never thought of asking at a place like AutoZone.

Bert, you know the trick on tie rods of beating on the end of the arm with a hammer and then tapping on the end of the tie rod after every 4-5 blows? Always works for me.

[walth]

if you search just the 9.13101 on google shopping AssaulTECH has "free shipping" and they're 3.00 for the pair. worth a shot

[Bert]

Pgh5spd: I did all that many more times than once before I got desperate. This is not at all my first time playing with tie-rod ends. Most (up until now, all) succumb to manly tapping on the threaded-on castle nut with a 2 lb hammer, or in my case an even bigger flared nut and an even bigger hammer. But this one wouldn't budge.

[GenevaDirt]

in the HELP section of most parts stores they sell a 2 pack of boots...1 will fit the tie rod end and 1 will fit the LCA....so you will need 2 packs if you are doing both LCA's.

[Zanzer]

^^ X2

I've used those but I don't remember the part numbers. Most HELP sections carry them though.

[TominMO]

Thats for the tie Rod. I dont think they are the same?

I'm confused too. That thread is talking about LCA boots for the ball joint, but Skeeter gave a listing for the tie rod end boot. Maybe it can fit both.

[walth]

As long as your ball joints are good it's worth buying the boots.

I think I picked up some from an auto zone for about 2-3 bucks per pair (the ones skeeter told me about). They're red and fit the ball joint well and are a touch big on the outer tie rod ends.

yes, they fit both LCA ball joints and outer tie rod ends...

[TominMO]

Took some measurements with my dial gauge, for Aspire parts. I imagine the Festy parts will be the same.
.................................................. ...........Energy Suspension boot part # and hole dimension
Aspire tie rod end, ball joint shaft thickness = .594" ............. 9.13101........ .590"
Aspire lower control arm, ball joint shaft thickness = .629" .... 9.13119........ .650"

The second part # seems to be a better fit for the LCA. Would be worth trying this out. I may have to do this, since both my LCAs on Danny have bad ball joint boots.

EDIT: I see that the hole on the second part # is larger than the shaft, so maybe that's why the same smaller one (9.13101) is used for both applications.