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  • Radiator fan stopped working

    Hey guys,

    About a month ago I unplugged my fan after I parked it so it wouldn't drain my battery any(I was limping on a bad battery and would need jumps often).

    I plugged it back in and it hasn't worked since...

    Now if I idle too long after reaching operating temp. it'll start to overheat and coolant will start to bubble out of the overflow res.. Obviously I turned the car off as soon as this happened but I'm afraid to drive it anywhere out of fear of being stuck in congested traffic, causing it to overheat again.

    Any help would... well... Help! I can't figure it out and I'm starting to feel like I'm beating a dead horse

    (I've made sure the male and female connections were clear of debris etc. without resolve)

    Thanks guys,

    Chris
    Last edited by g00db0y; 10-04-2011, 12:39 AM. Reason: Former wording sounded like comical sexual inuendo
    Go ghostiva, go!

    '88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed

  • #2
    Oops

    Forgot to add that it's an 88 FF.
    Go ghostiva, go!

    '88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed

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    • #3
      is the fuse still good?

      Comment


      • #4
        Would the fuse blow just because I unplugged the power connector?
        Is the fuse for it under the hood or on the main fuse panel above your left knee?
        Go ghostiva, go!

        '88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed

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        • #5
          Originally posted by g00db0y View Post
          Would the fuse blow just because I unplugged the power connector?
          Is the fuse for it under the hood or on the main fuse panel above your left knee?
          The fuse panel inside the car. It's a 20amp fuse labeled "Cooling Fan"
          BP, Aspire brakes, stock trans.

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          • #6
            Ground the wire to the fan switch with the key on. If the fan runs it's the fan sw. If it doesn't run, it's something else.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by g00db0y View Post
              Hey guys,

              About a month ago I unplugged my fan after I parked it so it wouldn't drain my battery any(I was limping on a bad battery and would need jumps often).

              I plugged it back in and it hasn't worked since...

              Now if I idle too long after reaching operating temp. it'll start to overheat and coolant will start to bubble out of the overflow res.. Obviously I turned the car off as soon as this happened but I'm afraid to drive it anywhere out of fear of being stuck in congested traffic, causing it to overheat again.

              Any help would... well... Help! I can't figure it out and I'm starting to feel like I'm beating a dead horse

              (I've made sure the male and female connections were clear of debris etc. without resolve)

              Thanks guys,

              Chris
              If you werent carefull,you could have damaged the male/female connector wires.(if you pulled on the wires to disconect,instead of the plug itself)
              Also look at the "male" metal tabs of the connector. Are the tabs still there & in good shape?
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                Ground the wire to the fan switch with the key on. If the fan runs it's the fan sw. If it doesn't run, it's something else.
                After adding this post I checked my '89 wiring manual. The above procedure is correct to check the fan sw but engine temp must be above 207 degrees F. The sw is normally closed as is the relay which is odd. The relay is energized by the METER fuse, so check that.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                  After adding this post I checked my '89 wiring manual. The above procedure is correct to check the fan sw but engine temp must be above 207 degrees F. The sw is normally closed as is the relay which is odd. The relay is energized by the METER fuse, so check that.
                  Why is it odd?
                  Last edited by nitrofarm; 10-04-2011, 05:24 PM.
                  Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                  Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                  Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                    Why is it odd?
                    Maybe it's not odd at all, but when I think of a switch, I think of it as normally open. Same with relays. Don't know why they would have the relay pulling 99 percent of the time then being relaxed to turn the device on. Extra work for the alt.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                      Maybe it's not odd at all, but when I think of a switch, I think of it as normally open. Same with relays. Don't know why they would have the relay pulling 99 percent of the time then being relaxed to turn the device on. Extra work for the alt.
                      There is a reason....
                      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        If the relay failed, it would fail into the normally closed position and turn on the fan as a fail-safe.

                        I believe if you unplug the fan switch, the fan should kick on. When the wire to the relay sees no ground, an open circuit, it kicks on the fan. Yes, the fan switch is normally closed to ground and opens when it reaches high temperatures.
                        -Zack
                        Blue '93 GL Auto: White 13" 5 Point Wheels, Full LED Conversion, and an 8" Sub

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by crazyrog17 View Post
                          If the relay failed, it would fail into the normally closed position and turn on the fan as a fail-safe.

                          I believe if you unplug the fan switch, the fan should kick on. When the wire to the relay sees no ground, an open circuit, it kicks on the fan. Yes, the fan switch is normally closed to ground and opens when it reaches high temperatures.
                          I was hoping he would figure it out himself
                          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            So if you unhooked the fan switch wire, the fan should turn on even if the engine is cold. Which means that the primary part of the relay could be bad also and the fan will run. Which just leaves the fan, fuse, fan relay secondary circuit, and connections.

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                            • #15
                              I talked to a local mechanic and he said I confused the chip and need to either get it reset or create a direct circut with a manual on/off toggle on the dash. Could this be the case? I'm not sure where this fan switch is you mentioned.
                              Go ghostiva, go!

                              '88 LX "tiny little ghost" White - 5 speed

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