This is all great info. I will check these items out tonight. I feel like the pump was turning on when I first tried to fire it up, but now it is not.
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Festiva won't start, what do I check
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If your pump was firing up when you first started, and now it isn't, its possible your fuel filter is clogged and not allowing pump to empty. This happened on my F-150 and as soon as changed filter, i could hear pump again. You could also try to unhook fuel line on inlet side filter, turn key on and listen for pump. Just be careful cause you will leak gas under the car, but it shouldn't be too much if you hear it and turn key off right away. Put empty gas can under car and run line into it so it catches gas. This should be done after you check for spark.
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he has spark. now he has some fuel issue or something...
i'm interested, did you try anything today Chad?
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Thanks for the info. I haven't had much time to look at it since my last post, but this morning I did unhook the battery and hook it back up and I didn't hear the fuel pump kick on. I think this kicked on when I first installed the battery. Could the fuel lines be plugged up? Should I blow some compressed air through them to back-flush?
Also, I could not find the inertia switch. I looked under the rear seatbelt and it was just stuff for the taillight. Am I looking in the wrong spot?
Also, when I turn the engine over the CEL is lit and stays on after I stop turning the key.Chad
1990 Tiva L - Yellow
1995 Metro - SOLD...
2002 F150 FX4 - Black
1966 Galaxie 500XL - Black
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you shouldn't be able to hear the fuel pump just by R&R the battery.
fuel lines plugged...maybe? did you plug them with something and remove it later...or could some mud bugs or whatever have built a quick home? Just pull the main fuel line and have someone bump the key. you'll find out real quick if it's plugged or not.
Even with my back seat removed from the car full time...I can't hear the fuel pump.
the inertia switch is a little black box with a red depressed button. it's just to the left of the rear left strut tower / housing whatever and below the speaker shelf and inside that big plastic panel.
idk much about the CEL stuff. is that the charge light? could be the reg deal inside the alternator? I have no idea...someone else can chime in hopefully
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^ Thats a dead link Walth.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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36148 is the thread?!?!?
Post your Festiva or Aspire repair and maintenance issues. - USE THIS FORUM FOR ANY TECHNICAL RELATED POST (IE. How do I change my oil?, How to remove axle from tranny?, etc)
all I did was remove "&highlight=timing+problem" in the first thread. did it again here...it works for me. thanks for the heads up
Last edited by walth; 10-21-2011, 04:27 PM.
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does that mean the festiva is running now?
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No not yet. The pump was not turning when I had it out of the tank, so I disassembled and hooked up to the battery. Tapped a few times with rubber mallet and it started turning. Going to get assembled and double check the timing before I fire it up. Fuel filternow clear.Chad
1990 Tiva L - Yellow
1995 Metro - SOLD...
2002 F150 FX4 - Black
1966 Galaxie 500XL - Black
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Just checked timing. On the #1 compression stroke (finger over plug hole, rolling car forward in 5th) I aligned the first mark of the crank pulley with TDC mark on timing cover. Then I checked the cam and marks were at 12 & 3. Then I checked distributor rotor and it was pointing to #1 plug wire. I think my timing is ok. Am I missing anything?
The #1 piston does not seem to be at TDC though. When piston is at TDC the crank marks line up with the 12 o'clock pointer on lower cover, and cam marks are obviously off.Chad
1990 Tiva L - Yellow
1995 Metro - SOLD...
2002 F150 FX4 - Black
1966 Galaxie 500XL - Black
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keep in mind that the cam rotates once for every 2 rotations of the crank.
Does your car have ac? If it does then forget about this as the bolt would be unreachable: I would remove the air box and I forget if your car has AC. if it doesn't, you'll be able to get to the crank bolt with an adjustable wrench which is probably an easier way to rotate everything.
when you have the crank lined up perfectly, where are is the cam gear lining up?
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you know the criteria, at least I believe you do
12 and 3 on the cam pulley for cylinder 1
12 on the crank pulley for cylinder 1
top left disty for your spark (which you verified) and the disty is all the way in, yeah? it'd be sticking out about 1/8" or more and just wouldn't look right
the crank positions pistons 1 and 4 exactly the same and 2 and 3 exactly the same. the two sets are perfectly 180 from each other. so as long as you get the crank at 12 like it's supposed to be and piston 1 is TDC I would think it will be just fine. the key on the crank won't allow it to mess up anyway. You may want to check the cutout on the cam though incase the key messed up the pulley
the firing order is 1 - 3 - 4 - 2
and is it in the diagram for what 12 and 3 mean? I haven't done it in a while, I'm sure I was told but I just forgot.
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