93 Festiva GL Problems

[93festarosa]

Hey everyone i just picked up a 93 Festiva GL Automatic with 224k. I am going to list problems it had/has and maybe you guys can give me tips on what the problem could be. I work on Kia's and im not familiar with the Festiva's yet.

Problems
1. Nothing on the gauge cluster worked
2. Automatic seat beats didnt work
3. Very noisey when driving down the street and has a very bad shake in the steering wheel
4. Bellows are missing off the steering rack on both sides
5. Exhaust leak (leaking from the down pipe right below where the flange is that bolts to the exhaust manifold. Also leaking from the gasket where the two flanges meet.
6. Floor is rusted through on the driver and passenger floor boards about 4 inch rust holes
7. Low beam headlights dont work (high beams do work)
8. Rear hatch wouldnt open
9. Left rear drum is stuck on the shoes, tried pulling it off and it wouldnt come off (I think i may have to force it off and replace the brake shoe hardware)
10. Trans fluid leaking
11. Valve Cover leaking

I fixed the gauge and seat belt issue the meter fuse was not in the fuse box. That made the fuel gauge start working as well as the seat belts. The coolant temp sensor prong was broke off (replaced the coolant temp sensor and now the temp gauge works), replaced speedo cable with a cable from an aspire and now the speedo works. I got a rear hatch latch and striker from the junkyard and got the hatch opened and replaced latch and striker so hatch works now. The trans was leaking and i thought it was from the drain plug because the drain plug did not have a crush ring install. I installed a crush ring and checked it. It seems to just be barely leaking now and seems to be coming from where the trans case would seperate. Any ideas on any of the other things i have listed? Common problems? Whats the typical fix? Sorry for the long post

[Pu241]

Long useful post are fine!
No worries!

#3 Try moving your front wheels to the back and the back to the front. Does this changes the vibration? If so, likely a tire or wheel issue.

#4 Replace bellows, but see if you need tie rods first, because these have to come off and you might as well replace them at the same time if you need them. I'd get and alignment after checking the Lower Control Arms, specifically the ball joint. LCA's come with the ball joint.

#5 replace manifold/down pipe gasket, like 3-$5 at McParts. replace manifold nuts with larger Stainless steel ones.

#7 pull the bulbs and see if they are burnt out. If not the hi/lo switch may need attention

#9 try to release the parking brake via the mechanism at the back of the backing plate. The one with the cable attached to it. Push/pull it to get it to release. Drum should come off easy.

#11 Get valve cover from JY and clean the crap out of it. Make it nice and shinny inside and out. Then get a new VCG from McParts store. make sure it has new grommets, about $15. Then the VC swap is a 20 min operation.

Let use know if you need help!
Because you are smart enough to put your location in your profile (many are not), I can offer you the possibility that a long time member, mechanic in the making, and all around good guy Safety Guy might be able to lend a hand if you drop him a PM.

[93festarosa]

Long useful post are fine!
No worries!

#3 Try moving your front wheels to the back and the back to the front. Does this changes the vibration? If so, likely a tire or wheel issue.

#4 Replace bellows, but see if you need tie rods first, because these have to come off and you might as well replace them at the same time if you need them. I'd get and alignment after checking the Lower Control Arms, specifically the ball joint. LCA's come with the ball joint.

#5 replace manifold/down pipe gasket, like 3-$5 at McParts. replace manifold nuts with larger Stainless steel ones.

#7 pull the bulbs and see if they are burnt out. If not the hi/lo switch may need attention

#9 try to release the parking brake via the mechanism at the back of the backing plate. The one with the cable attached to it. Push/pull it to get it to release. Drum should come off easy.

#11 Get valve cover from JY and clean the crap out of it. Make it nice and shinny inside and out. Then get a new VCG from McParts store. make sure it has new grommets, about $15. Then the VC swap is a 20 min operation.

Let use know if you need help!
Because you are smart enough to put your location in your profile (many are not), I can offer you the possibility that a long time member, mechanic in the making, and all around good guy Safety Guy might be able to lend a hand if you drop him a PM.

Thanks for the reply. I need to get new tires the tires are cupped which may be a big part of the problem. Is there a good place to get the tires cheap? My brother in law just got a 91 festiva same time i got mine and he got 2 tires for $100 from discount tire. I think i may just order the kit off ebay for like $119 that comes with inners, outers and lca's with the sway bar bushing. The exhaust is welded to death below the flange on the downpipe because is must have been a huge hole there and they welded it up but its still leaking. Is there somewhere to buy a new downpipe cheap? Or should i just remove it and try to weld it up more? Bulbs are good i keep seeing people post on here about fuseible links. Are they the little box thats mounted on the drivers side strut tower (looks like a little brown box with loops coming out)? I picked up a valve cover gasket with grommets for $16.99 from o reillys. Just have to file down the throttle body a little bit so that the valve cover will clear when removing.

[Pu241]

Yes, if tires are cupped then you have alignment and/or hardware issues.
Need to fix/repair those before getting an alignment.
Check tireseasy.com, tirerack.com, sometimes walmart has them or maybe someone close in Ohio might have a good used set available. Post a [WTB] in the ForSale forum. You can use 145/80/12 and 155/80/12 if you have OEM steelies , or 175/70/12 if you have OEM alloys.
I ordered the kit you spoke of and it came with the wrong outer tie rod ends.
Might be more cost effective to just buy what you need from Rockauto.com or the usual McParts stores.
Down pipe are still available from McParts, but not cheap. Again place a [WTB] might be a better way to go.
Yes, that would be the fusible links, you need to change those for cartridge fuses (free from most JY), you need the long legged cartridges 2 pink and one green. I have some at my other place of residence and can send a set or two to you if you can't find them.
You do not need to file down the valve cover just disconnect the primary coil wire from the distributor and bump it till you and lift off the valve cover. I've replaced maybe 10 of these and never had to file the cover.

[Bdubya]

2-Check fuses. See if motors get any power. Don't have auto seat belts in Canada so I'm shootin in the dark on that one.
3-Ball joints, bad tires and/or Alignment.
4-Needs new bellows. If you can find new or good used ones. Might have to get a new steering rack. Might as well change the tie rod ends if you're doing those.
5-Engine flange gasket. Use stainless nuts and bolts if possible. Go to Speedy and they'll probably just give you one.
6-Sheet metal, pop rivets and tar. Unless you are planning to do a restoration but if it is just a driver, tar it up.
7-I would start with the relay that is on the driverside fender wall behind the battery. Try the fuses and inspect the wires and bulbs.
9-I know this is going to sound barbaric but hit it with a large hammer many times all around to break it free. Controlled swings.
11-Valve cover gasket.