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WHAT AM I MISSING?! Crank, no start.

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  • #46
    Originally posted by 200KGPGTP View Post

    Now it cranks and won't start. No CEL when key is 'on'.
    Mine did exactly this and it was all due to a bad vaf.
    Did all the usual, replaced every part of the ignition system before we unplugged the vaf with the key on and the light came on, replugged it and the light went out. Put in a used one and has ran great ever since.
    Last edited by econoaddict; 12-04-2011, 11:44 PM.
    Hotrod Forums Directory * D&D Discbrakes 61-67 Econoline Conversions
    1988 Festy - white 5spd 1.3 * 1992 Festy - red 5spd 1.3 * 1963 Econoline 5 window pu * 1993 Dodge W250 5.9 Cummings * 94 Mustang

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    • #47
      Originally posted by econoaddict View Post
      Mine did exactly this and it was all due to a bad vaf.
      Did all the usual, replaced every part of the ignition system before we unplugged the vaf with the key on and the light came on, replugged it and the light went out. Put in a used one and has ran great ever since.
      Read the update post above. I got it started and it ran very well for about 30 seconds, then the fuse popped again.




      Also, I think I'll bypass the normal charge wire and run a new one to the battery... there's an idea!!
      Buck.
      -1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
      -1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
      -1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler

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      • #48
        Welp, no luck. The charge wire appeared fine.

        I unhooked everything to the alternator and tried to start it hooked up to the Grand Prix. It's back to cranking and not starting. I had the multimeter hooked up to the battery and watched it as I went to hook the charge wire back up. As soon as the hoop touched the post, it sparked quite large and blew the main fuse yet again. I'm not sure if it's because there was a built up charge in the alt from cranking or because there was an actual problem......

        I'm getting awfully aggravated, especially if I have to buy ANOTHER icm. I have the reciept, I can't remember if it had a warranty or not.

        AAAHHHHHHHHH
        Buck.
        -1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
        -1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
        -1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler

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        • #49
          Wish I could help. I had this trouble a while back, but my fix was icm. I'll go through some diagrams and see if I can help. What year is yours?
          Fesdiva is it's new name since she's acting crazy- 92 L

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          • #50
            As of your last post I would pull the alternator and have it tested, sounds like an internal short. If it tests bad and still doesn't run after replacing, turn your key on, if no check engine light unplug the vaf and see if it turns on.
            Hotrod Forums Directory * D&D Discbrakes 61-67 Econoline Conversions
            1988 Festy - white 5spd 1.3 * 1992 Festy - red 5spd 1.3 * 1963 Econoline 5 window pu * 1993 Dodge W250 5.9 Cummings * 94 Mustang

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            • #51
              wow, this is bad lol, 4 days later your still stranded! I wish I could help ya out, but anything I say would probably just cost money and not fix anything! Good luck tho!
              2008 Kia Rio- new beater
              1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
              1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
              1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
              1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
              1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
              1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
              1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



              "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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              • #52
                Originally posted by 200KGPGTP View Post
                I had already removed the seatbelt fuse. And which wires? The main charge wire or the other pigtail?

                Someone told me this means there is a short in a main power line oh say from the alt to the batt for example. Possibility?
                both, the main and the 2 wire pigtail.
                Trees aren't kind to me...

                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                • #53
                  Hang in the GTP

                  Originally posted by 200KGPGTP View Post
                  Welp, no luck. The charge wire appeared fine.

                  I unhooked everything to the alternator and tried to start it hooked up to the Grand Prix. It's back to cranking and not starting. I had the multimeter hooked up to the battery and watched it as I went to hook the charge wire back up. As soon as the hoop touched the post, it sparked quite large and blew the main fuse yet again. I'm not sure if it's because there was a built up charge in the alt from cranking or because there was an actual problem......
                  For clarification: The 30 amp fuse under dash labeled "Belts" is REMOVED correct?
                  I'm really thinking this is our problem.
                  Also for clarification:The plastic insulator washer on the Alt post is still there correct? If its gone or the ring terminal touches the Alt housing even a little.You'll get your symtom.
                  Also FYI: The PRCM "Passive Restraint Control Module" is connected in "Parallel" with the "Main" 25 amp fuse.
                  I'm hoping you didnt fry icm also,but it prolly blew in that 30 sec run time....
                  Last edited by Pu241; 12-05-2011, 12:24 PM.
                  Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                  Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                  Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                  • #54
                    Yes the 30a seat belt fuse in the cabin is removed..

                    The alt is brand new... Could it still be bad?
                    Buck.
                    -1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
                    -1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
                    -1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Don't mean to keep returning to this issue of suffering, but would it be feasable for your lady to strap-tow you with that Pontiac back to your warm, well-equipped home facility?

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                      • #56
                        You mean my man? Lol. That might be possible. I don't have any straps or chains though. I was DEBATING just pushing it home.... it's really not that far.
                        Buck.
                        -1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
                        -1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
                        -1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by 200KGPGTP View Post
                          Yes the 30a seat belt fuse in the cabin is removed..

                          The alt is brand new... Could it still be bad?
                          Yes for sure it could be bad. I would pull it and have it tested. Considering you dont want to try to crank it till you find something definitive.
                          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            Ok, testing the alternator is the next step. Hopefully I can get it home before I do that larger job. That kinda upsets me, I had installed it PERFECTLY. The old alternator didn't even have all the bracing on it, etc. I spent hours getting bolts that would work, lining it all up, tightening the belt, etc.

                            But if it's the issue, i'll be glad to get it back on the road. Cross your fingers.... again!!


                            ALSO!!!!

                            There is a very good chance I'll have a second Festiva by tomorrow night
                            Buck.
                            -1993 Ford Festiva GL, ~200k, B6, Aspire rear, Rio front, 5-speed. '87 Prelude alloys. Happy to be back on the route!!!
                            -1999 Toyota Sienna XLE, 346,000
                            -1996 Chevrolet K1500 Z71, 350 V8, 198k, hauler

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Festivas tow festivas tow festivas
                              Owner of:
                              1991 Red Festiva L, 5 speed (Swagger Wagon)
                              In progress:
                              BP+G25MR swap, Kia rio axles hopefully.

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                              • #60
                                Hey, if you have to, just line up the bumpers on both cars, see if they match, have other car push it till you hit 25-30 MPH and then back off and you can coast rest way home or until you need to stop and a sign then push it again. You can put an old tire between the two also if you want to keep them apart. You just need to get it home to work on it properly
                                Thom-Lifes too short, don't blink
                                93 Festiva (Little Red Truck)
                                01 F-150 (Big Red Truck)

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