MAIN FUSE BLOWING! HELP!

[Pu241]

Darlo,
Think this thread by Nitrofarm is what you need:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38279

[nitrofarm]

Darlo, you might want to consider running an Extra Heavy Gage wire from the Alt output to the Battery positve post.Just make sure its fused with no more than @ a 30a .But you really are taxing the Alt my friend.You need to actually do a simple test with a amp meter & a battery and see how much those frog lights are pulling. You might not be able to run both sets & your Power Amplifiers
But YES you need to UPGRADE your factory Dist block.You don't necessarily have to use my method. Because its totally intended for a stock wiring system. You can use SPADE terminals like others on this forum. Just make sure you use the heavy 30a rated ones. I've seen a few people on here use the smaller ones.And thats really not sufficient IMO. Just remember ALWAYS disconnect your battery ground cable before you start any repairs.

[Darlo]

I was thinking of cleaning/reparing like NitroFarm, but then I saw post #89 on this link and thought I would do this, as then I could run that style of fuse.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showpost.php?p=471027&postcount=89

Is there any disadvantage to that way?

[nitrofarm]

I was thinking of cleaning/reparing like NitroFarm, but then I saw post #89 on this link and thought I would do this, as then I could run that style of fuse.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39732&page=2

Is there any disadvantage to that way?

If you clean up the Copper Dist Block then you can run cartridge fuses. Which are very nice. Running the stock Copper block has a slight advantage. With the stock setup 12v comes in @ the copper plate.(The wire is actually screwed onto the copper plate). Then there are 3 tabs that split power from there. With the way he has it wired in #89 the power for the last fuse is passing through three crimp splices. You'll have some small resistance across these splices. I would also make the 40a fuse splice the main feed.(thus having the 2 smaller 30a fuse splices to left & right) As opposed to it being second down the path.Make sense? You still need to figure out how many amps you want to safely pull. Otherwise no matter how you wire it. It wont pass the test

[Pu241]

I think that would be fine to see if that solves your problem and for testing.
But for long term I'd feel more comfortable with maybe grabbing a 323 under hood fuse box and wiring it up. It is covered and takes cartridge fuses.

Anyone got a pic of one from an early 323 or possibly the newer model Proteges.

[Movin]

Way to keep your eyes open ! Sure saves a lot of horsing around figuring it out !

[Darlo]

Yes indeed, we will see in a couple days when I have time to fix/clean it......

[Oren09]

I think that would be fine to see if that solves your problem and for testing.
But for long term I'd feel more comfortable with maybe grabbing a 323 under hood fuse box and wiring it up. It is covered and takes cartridge fuses.

Anyone got a pic of one from an early 323 or possibly the newer model Proteges.

Aspires have a covered fuse box. Little one with three fuses I think...

[crazyrog17]

How's it going Darlo? My dad and I just replaced the alternator and so far, these past couple of days, it has solved the issue. Just thought I'd add that conclusion to the thread but also wanted to see how your solution was coming along.

[nitrofarm]

How's it going Darlo? My dad and I just replaced the alternator and so far, these past couple of days, it has solved the issue. Just thought I'd add that conclusion to the thread but also wanted to see how your solution was coming along.

Yes, but I'm quite certain you werent trying to power the xmas lites @ Central Park with yours.:p

[Darlo]

I ended up cleaning the connections on the main fuse box, and I bought 25+ fuses from Pickapart, but have not needed them at all! It just will not blow now with the clean connections! EVEN WITH the all the fog/driving lights! :p