Squealing belt

[WmWatt]

I scratch a line across the alternator and the support so I can put it back where it was, then check tension to.

[nitrofarm]

Its not the timing belt(they have teeth). Loosen 3 bolts on the Alt. Install new belt to where you think the deflection is correct & start the car.Turn on lights & blower on high.If it squeals,tighten more...... You wont need a tow truck. If you do need a tow truck,just dont let anybody here know

[nitrofarm]

I try and be careful where I pry on the alternator because I worry about cracking the case. I try and use something wide as possible,wood [2x4] is good if you can get it in, to spread the pressure or chose a thick spot. If they have been sitting a while they can be hard to get moving. After I get the belt on I like to tighten it to where I have a 1/4" play in each direction in the middle. It is possible to tighten it to where it doesn't move at all but you will probabley lunch the bearings in the alt and the water pump when you run it.

PRY BARS RULE. You really use a 2x4 to tighten a Festy belt? Pressure treated or untreated?

[nitrofarm]

Allright, well I went out and bought the belt, and an air filter which was due as well (got it installed fine) but I can't loosen the bolts for the alternator belt. Should I spray some PB Blaster on them to loosen them up? I was going to, but didn't know if it would be a bad idea for the stuff to get into the alternator so I figured I'd check here first.

You need MORE LEVERAGE. Not some "MAN in a CAN". It helps if you can get under the car. Then you can use a LONGER tool. You may hear a snap when you break the oxidation loose.This is normal,then if you like spray some juice on the treads.To prevent galling when removing the bolt.
You obviously haven't much experience working on your car. So with that I say respectfully. MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE BOLT THE CORRECT WAY. The bolts are going into soft aluminum. And you can ruin the alt, if you turn the bolt in the wrong direction. My son did this job in shop class along with the Valve Cover in a two hour slot. You can handle it !

[AlaskaFestivaGuy]

If you've got bolts that won't break loose, a bit of "insurance" is to use 6-point (instead of 12-point) sockets and wrenches. That reduces that chance of rounding off the bolt head or nut. Using metric sockets as opposed to "close enough" imperial sizes can also help.

[georgeb]

I loosen the bottom 14mm with a 3/8 breaker bar or long box wrench and rubber mallet. It only needs to be loosened a half-turn or so. The top 12mm slider bolt
must be loosened enough to move the alt. I use a tire iron with a little bit of force to pull the belt tight.

[nitrofarm]

I loosen the bottom 14mm with a 3/8 breaker bar or long box wrench and rubber mallet. It only needs to be loosened a half-turn or so. The top 12mm slider bolt
must be loosened enough to move the alt. I use a tire iron with a little bit of force to pull the belt tight.

Yup,I forgot he isnt even changing the Alt. Thats even easier,just got to get em loose

[denguy]

Geez........nobody wants to know how long the 2x4 was.

[JohnGunn]

You have encountered the first important advantage of doing your own automobile maintenance. To avoid come backs a professional mechanic will always err on the side of too tight. You, on the other hand, want it only tight enough to hold whatever it is holding. If one of these bolts comes loose, you can always do it over and make it somewhat tighter. Eventually you may even, one day, decided to buy a torque wrench.

For an overtightened bolt you should, above all, be patient. Apply PB Blaster to the threads a couple of times a day for a few days, trying them each time until you can break them loose. The threads of the top bolt can be easily seen and should not present a problem. The larger, lower bolt is long with the important threads at the end. In this case it will do you no good to spray the head of the bolt. Trace the bolt to its end where it comes out of the front, right side of the car, of the engine and spray there.

It is best to use a 6 point socket and if, after a couple days trying, it doesn't come loose, you will have to move up to what is called a breaker bar, which is longer than your ratchet handle. Eventually, you'll get it.

When it comes to tightening the alternator belt I always shoot for the lowest tension which will avoid squealing. To adjust with that degree of control requires the right tool to use in moving the alternator. I find this Harbor Freight pry bar to work very well.

Start out on the loose side. Then run the engine and listen for squealing. Turn on the lights and the heater blower and listen some more. Finally spray water on the belt and listen some more. At first it will probably squeal. Just keep making it a little tighter each time until it remains silent. As you can imagine that is not the kind of service you can ever expect from some professional stranger with an eye or two on the clock.

All this advice comes with the following warning:

Beware. Success in this job can lead to a significantly elevated sense of elation which is known to be addictive.