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  • #16
    You can hear it or if you can't hear so good you can feel it, even up at the filter.
    Check those links, there are lots of different but good ways to fix them so you don't have
    any more problems with them.
    Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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    • #17
      You can use a meter or a test light if you've got it. You are gonna have to have someone turn the key for you, as there's only power for a few seconds to the pump if the engines not running. Same should be for the relay, but I'd have to look at tje diagram to see how that parts wired up. But if you turn the key on you should have power at the pump and the relay for at least a few seconds after you turn it on.
      89 L, hopefully returning from the dead soon with a little more power... :twisted:
      http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...77-my-89-build
      92 integra, daily driver, broke a clutch disc, sold
      New dd, 02 Nissan sentra, 1.8 5 spd

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Movin View Post
        You can hear it or if you can't hear so good you can feel it, even up at the filter.
        Check those links, there are lots of different but good ways to fix them so you don't have
        any more problems with them.
        what links? sorry ive only had the festiva since friday still a noob, whats the best way to fix these links? thanks

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        • #19
          On the drivers side of the engine bay there's 3little fuse looking things that just look like wires sticking up out of a socket. Just pull them up out of there and check for corrosion/loose connection. Or if one of the wires is burnt up
          Last edited by geezerstiva; 01-18-2012, 12:28 AM.
          89 L, hopefully returning from the dead soon with a little more power... :twisted:
          http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...77-my-89-build
          92 integra, daily driver, broke a clutch disc, sold
          New dd, 02 Nissan sentra, 1.8 5 spd

          Comment


          • #20
            Right on the front side of the strut housing.
            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Movin View Post
              Right on the front side of the strut housing.
              ok i see them they do look a bit corroded im going to have to get a wire brush on them tommorow

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              • #22
                VAF must see airflow in order to energize fuel pump

                Originally posted by geezerstiva View Post
                Should be able to turn the key and see if it makes a clicking sound. Can you hear the pump run when you turn the key on?
                Joe,you can physically hold open the vane inside the airbox.Then turn key to run.If the pump is ok.Then & ONLY THEN will you hear the pump run. Its best to do it this way cuz you dont have to physically crank the engine. VAF is a safety,no airflow.No fuel pump. They engineered it that way. You cant just turn key & listen ok....
                Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                • #23
                  The above method is the best way. There supposedly is a way to jump it with the plug by the firewall but I couldn't get mine to work that way. Turn the key on, push on the flap with your left hand and feel the fuel line with your right.

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                  • #24
                    Couple of things to check

                    Joe after reading all of your other threads I can see your not afraid to change parts What you need to do is slow down & do some good trouble shooting.
                    So the engine cranks,gets spark but no fuel correct?There are quite a few things you could have checked before changing the pump. But its all good not trying to bust your chops. Just make you think,so her goes.
                    Fuel pump relay under drivers side dash. It'll click with key moved to run.If it works go to next step.
                    VAF connection,its the long narrow plug on the VAF (the VAF is the large aluminum housing just aft of the air cleaner) This connection has kicked many peoples butts,especially if its an intermittent problem. Pull the pug,inspect & clean with contact cleaner if it needs it.Plug it back in & try to start car.If it still wont start.....
                    Test fuel pump as follows.Access the inlet of the VAF. Have a buddy gently hold the VANE inside the VAF off of the idle position.Or prop it open with anything handy. Now while its propped open.Sit in drivers seat & turn key to run. You should hear pump running.If its not running you need to verify voltage is getting to the pos wire & you have good ground.If its running & still no fuel @ line.Make sure you didn't swap press/return lines when you did previous repairs. Try all this & let us know the outcome. You could have a bad micro switch in the vaf.Lastly I didn't mention the fuel press reg because you said the fuel line was bone dry. As in no fuel getting to the reg at all. Good luck-
                    PS if you want an idea for cleaning up the fuseable links.Click the pic in my sig. Its not the only method and you dont have to dissasemble it this far. But it'll give you something to think about.Peace-
                    Last edited by nitrofarm; 01-18-2012, 09:45 AM.
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                      Joe after reading all of your other threads I can see your not afraid to change parts What you need to do is slow down & do some good trouble shooting.
                      So the engine cranks,gets spark but no fuel correct?There are quite a few things you could have checked before changing the pump. But its all good not trying to bust your chops. Just make you think,so her goes.
                      Fuel pump relay under drivers side dash. It'll click with key moved to run.If it works go to next step.
                      VAF connection,its the long narrow plug on the VAF (the VAF is the large aluminum housing just aft of the air cleaner) This connection has kicked many peoples butts,especially if its an intermittent problem. Pull the pug,inspect & clean with contact cleaner if it needs it.Plug it back in & try to start car.If it still wont start.....
                      Test fuel pump as follows.Access the inlet of the VAF. Have a buddy gently hold the VANE inside the VAF off of the idle position.Or prop it open with anything handy. Now while its propped open.Sit in drivers seat & turn key to run. You should hear pump running.If its not running you need to verify voltage is getting to the pos wire & you have good ground.If its running & still no fuel @ line.Make sure you didn't swap press/return lines when you did previous repairs. Try all this & let us know the outcome. You could have a bad micro switch in the vaf.Lastly I didn't mention the fuel press reg because you said the fuel line was bone dry. As in no fuel getting to the reg at all. Good luck-
                      PS if you want an idea for cleaning up the fuseable links.Click the pic in my sig. Its not the only method and you dont have to dissasemble it this far. But it'll give you something to think about.Peace-
                      I'm at work now so I'll check the pump and relay when I get home. I messed with the VAF this morning and noticed that the SIG pin was backed out a little bet so I pushed it back in and tried starting and it started right up. So I pulled the pin back out and tried starting again it didn't start, so I thought great I found the problem so I ushers it back in and no start WTF. Lol I switched out the VAF with another one and when I did that the rubber hose goeong from the VAF to the engine was hanging down and when I looked back there was a puddle of engine oil that poured out of the hose, what would that be from? Could that be the issue?

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                      • #26
                        Sounds like the plug is probablly the culprit

                        The oil is coming thru the idle air system. It doesn't always mean a bad motor with blow by. Clean out all the intake tubes with a cleaner thats not super harsh on plastic. I read you have a new pcv valve thats good. The most common cause of oil in the intake tubes on this forum.Is the the OIL BAFFLE MAZE inside the top of the valve cover clogged up. Get a new valve cover gasket,pull the cover. Remove baffle from inside. Clean everything,paint valve cover top if you like. Seal the sealing surfaces of the baffle maze cover with a thin bead of permatex black.Then reinstall the maze cover. Run a thin bead of the black on the valve cover,set the seal in & install the seal wet. Then install valve cover. I like to only use FELPRO. Make sure you use the new grommets.
                        The maze is designed to help separate the oil/vapors. If that maze was clogged.It most likely was your problem,not bad leaking compression rings.Lets hope that helps. Also make sure all hoses are leak free for your intake system. The VAF is very sensitive & will not perform well. GOOD LUCK
                        Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                        Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                        Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Alright man thanks for all your help, I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend lol

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                          • #28
                            I took off the VAF and all the hoses attached to the valve cover. There wasn't as much oil as I thought there was, I thoroughly cleaned every hose and the VAF with simple green put everything back together and she started right up. I drove her around the town for about 15 minutes and she was running real strong. After the drive I checked the hoses and they seemed to be clear of oil. The only thing on my post drive checks I noticed was the tranny has a lil leak. Does the check engine light come on when you put the ignition to run and and extinguish once the engine is started?

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                            • #29
                              Be careful when diagnosing.. if you touch too many things
                              and the symptom goes away you might not be certain
                              what fixed it..leading to a long walk later

                              what do you mean by: and and extinguish once the engine is started?
                              Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by Movin View Post
                                Be careful when diagnosing.. if you touch too many things
                                and the symptom goes away you might not be certain
                                what fixed it..leading to a long walk later

                                what do you mean by: and and extinguish once the engine is started?
                                I think he means "and go out once the engine is started."
                                And as far as I know the CEL does do this right? Not something I pay attention to, to be honest.
                                Mike Holmgren
                                Thief Rvr Fls, MN
                                1989 Festiva L, carb. 4 spd.
                                "If at first you don't succeede, get a bigger hammer. If it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway."

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