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A cheap solution, to a non-existent problem

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  • A cheap solution, to a non-existent problem

    Once there was a gun writer. He was talking about the SA/DA semi auto pistol. This pistol action was invented in part, due to a perceived problem with SA pistols (namely, the 1911 .45ACP), being "dangerous". He called this invention, "an ingenious solution, to a non-existent problem".

    Well, I think I have come up with one of those myself. In another thread, I mentioned that I had bought a radiator, and even though the car is a manual transmission car, the rad came ready for the cooler lines for an auto tranny. It also had no hole for the radiator temp switch.

    I had considered drilling a hole for the switch, but was told by people here with more experience than I, that the switch was not necessary, and to not worry about it. Base on there explanations of how it operates, I agree, it is not necessary. But, as a tinkering type, I just could not help but wonder, was there not a simple, and cheap way to make this work? I think I have come up with one.

    "Help" product (from Auto Zone), part number 47028. It is a Chrysler PCV elbow. And it cost around $5 bucks.

    The beauty of this little rubber boot is, one end fits perfectly, the nipple for the auto tranny lines. The other end, while not as tight, still fits the radiator temp switch. So, here is comes the plan......
    Last edited by unknown; 02-12-2012, 01:19 PM. Reason: mangled writings.

  • #2
    Now in these two pics, you will see, the nipple, and then the PCV boot fit to it. Once I have this connected securely, and I have plugged the other of the two nipples, I will proceed to fill the auto tranny lines with anti-freeze/water mix.
    Last edited by unknown; 02-12-2012, 01:08 PM. Reason: clarity

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    • #3
      Once the lines are full, I will install the radiator temp switch. And finally, even though I don't think under normal conditions the boot would let go, I will secure the boot to the nipple and the switch, with zip ties.

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      • #4
        Now, understand, I have not put this in my ride yet. I have no reason to believe it will do any kind of damage, and I can't see any reason why it won't work. But, until I know it works, I don't know it works.

        So, does anyone have any thoughts or opinions? Does anyone think, for example the temp of the anti-freeze in the fluid line would build up enough pressure to blow the boot (or the lines)? Anything?
        Last edited by unknown; 02-12-2012, 01:20 PM. Reason: clarity

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        • #5
          Haha, interesting read! If anything, I'd say a couple hose clamps are in order to keep it from blowing off, unless you have a zip tie tool that sinches them tight. There's really only one way to find out tho!
          2008 Kia Rio- new beater
          1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
          1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
          1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
          1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
          1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
          1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
          1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



          "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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          • #6
            Well, I am going to zip tie both connections.

            What I am thinking is, even though there is no pressure release, surely the boot would blow before the aluminum lines would. And if it gets hot enough to blow either, I will probably have bigger problems to deal with than those lines. But, like you say, all I can do is run it and see.

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            • #7
              The average cooling system is only put under 12-16 psi as long as your radiator cap is functioning properly. You should be fine with a pair of hose clamps.

              Edit: Or zip ties.
              2002 Ford Mustang GT Mineral Grey 5 spd
              1996 Ford Explorer XLT AWD White POS
              1992 Ford Festiva GL Metallic Blue 5 spd

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              • #8
                If it were me I'd use good quality hose clamps, but I can't name pressures or reasons why my choice would be superior. Just "carefulness."

                What I will ask is if that temp sensor is in a position to provide accurate, timely temp readings being that it is not in the main tank's purview. It's in a relatively remote "backwater" where the circulating fluid may not be circulating too well.

                BTW, your gunwriter quote was from the well known "gunner's guru" Jeff Cooper, founder of "The Modern Technique" of the pistol and his American Pistol Institute.

                Karl
                '93GL "Prettystiva" ticking B3 and 5 speed, backup DD; full swaps in spring!
                '91L "AquaMutt" my '91L; B6 swap/5 speed & Aspire brakes, DD/work car
                '92L "Twinstiva" 5sp, salvage titled, waiting for repairs...
                '93GL "Luxstiva," '94 B6 engine & ATX; needs overhauled
                '89L "Muttstiva," now a storage bin, future trailer project

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                • #9
                  That is correct. It was Jeff Cooper.

                  I'll answer your question on the placement of the switch with, I don't know. The original location, is at the bottom of the radiator. Maybe, 4 inches from where it will be now. I know the lines will keep the anti-freeze that actually circulates in the radiator, and what is sitting idle in the tranny lines separate. But, I'm thinking that the aluminum will not amount to a significant thermal barrier (hows that for trying to sound like I know my stuff). The fluid in the lines, should heat up almost as quickly as the fluid circulating in the radiator, and activate (or deactivate?) the switch. It sounds reasonable to me, but that doesn't mean I'm correct.

                  And again, if it doesn't work, it really is no big deal. I will unplug it and drive. This is just one of those "can it be done" kind of projects.

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                  • #10
                    I guess I don't understand what the purpose is. Are you intending to use the switch to run the cooling fan?
                    Brian

                    93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                    04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                    62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                    1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                    Not enough time or money for any of them

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by blkfordsedan View Post
                      I guess I don't understand what the purpose is. Are you intending to use the switch to run the cooling fan?
                      No the switch (sensor) is, from what I understand is used to help the car run better, before it gets warmed up, and shuts off at 65 degrees. And the purpose of me trying to use it is because, it is there.

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                      • #12
                        You do realize that there is no coolant flow at the transmission cooling lines, right? Transmission fluid would normally flow through here so with nothing hooked up it's just.. air in there.

                        This means there would be no pressure build up and the sensor would not be getting an accurate reading anyway.

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                        • #13
                          That is what I thought but i didn't want to say anything if I was wrong. I thought that that chamber was just like a crude trans cooler.
                          93 Festiva L White B6T
                          99 Dodge Ram STL Green Cummins. AKA the Jolly Green Giant
                          89 Festiva Blue
                          91 Green “Mad Maxine” Festiva B6T
                          93 Festiva GL Black BP automatic
                          93 Festiva GL Green stock

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                          • #14
                            x2 sorry
                            New build on the way .

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by MasterTec View Post
                              You do realize that there is no coolant flow at the transmission cooling lines, right? Transmission fluid would normally flow through here so with nothing hooked up it's just.. air in there.

                              This means there would be no pressure build up and the sensor would not be getting an accurate reading anyway.
                              Is there not flow around the outside of those lines? And yes, there is just air in there, unless I pour anti-freeze in there. I thought I had mentioned that. Even though there is no flow inside the lines, is there not flow around them on the outside, to cool them? Will the temperature not transfer from the anti-freeze flowing around the outside of the lines, through the aluminum lines, to the anti-freeze contained inside them? Is this not part of how a radiator changes the temperature of the transmission fluid coming through the bottom of the radiator?

                              And this is why I asked about the pressure build up. If there is anti-freeze sealed off in those tranny lines, surely there is at least the possibility of pressure. It would be heated fluid, just like in the flowing part of the radiator, would it not?


                              And Hondaslayer, feel free to chime it. Like I said, this is an experiment. If you see or think something, throw it out there.

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