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  • rear strut - need hints

    So I have scored fresh rear kyb rear struts off an aspire. It was not fun taking them off the donor - the nut was spinning together with the shock shaft, and I had to compress the springs while everything was on the car - again, no fun. I guess putting them on the car would be even less fun.

    What do I do wrong? Hints? Are there any caps I can put on the springs at least to avoid compressing them on a car?
    Last edited by russian; 02-19-2012, 09:58 PM.
    rusEfi - DIY ECU
    93 EFI: tach cluster, aspire mirrors & spindles. ZX2 master cylinder, BP+G25 swap with a door hinge, rio struts. 205/50r15, 140mph speedometer,rear disk brakes, mini cooper + subaru front brakes rear sway bar

  • #2
    you should be able to do the rears without a compressor. I us e the weight of the car to keep them compressed before removal and then lower the car back down onto them to compress them for installation.
    "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
    89L Silver EFI auto
    91GL Green Auto DD
    There ain't no rest for the wicked
    until we close our eyes for good.
    I will sleep when I die!
    I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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    • #3
      ^^what Geneva said. And I've also never used a compressor for the rears, other than the car. One thing that helps too is clean threads and a little grease or anti-sieze to help the nut spin freely and avoid any of the issues you might be having. the little rectangle cut out at the top also helps if you can get some vice grips on it. and ratchet wrenches help too but not all necessary
      Walth

      Festiva #1: 91 Red L 4/5
      http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=27981

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      • #4
        Originally posted by walth View Post
        ^^what Geneva said. And I've also never used a compressor for the rears, other than the car. One thing that helps too is clean threads and a little grease or anti-sieze to help the nut spin freely and avoid any of the issues you might be having. the little rectangle cut out at the top also helps if you can get some vice grips on it. and ratchet wrenches help too but not all necessary
        yup....vise grips and ratcheting wrenches and anti-seize...all are your friends, embrace them.
        "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
        89L Silver EFI auto
        91GL Green Auto DD
        There ain't no rest for the wicked
        until we close our eyes for good.
        I will sleep when I die!
        I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

        Comment


        • #5
          Self-compression! Genius! that's the hint I was looking for

          And will make a rectangle cut in advance - I have raped the thread by vice griping while taking them off. I am surprised that the stock stocks have two nuts and nice gripping area while kyb are threaded all the way to the end.

          Thank you guys!
          rusEfi - DIY ECU
          93 EFI: tach cluster, aspire mirrors & spindles. ZX2 master cylinder, BP+G25 swap with a door hinge, rio struts. 205/50r15, 140mph speedometer,rear disk brakes, mini cooper + subaru front brakes rear sway bar

          Comment


          • #6
            Floor jack diagonally across car will amplify cars weight to compress
            spring if necessary and a air gun or electric impact gun are invaluable
            for spinning nut with out having to anchor the shock stem from rotating!

            Spread the lower shock mount with a hammer to allow easy removal
            and install.

            Be sure the new upper bushings get the hole insert properly in place
            as you tighten as you don't want the new shock stem threads rubbing
            against the hole in the car..noisy!!

            inspect the spring insulators and replace if worn.
            ditto..boots and bump stops
            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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            • #7
              So everything worked as a chart with the upper nut...

              What about that lower bolt? The bolt is off the thread but the rubber piece is stuck to it and would not let the bolt go. The rubber together with the bolt spins inside the shock. Pulling with a vise grip did not work.

              Any hints how to remove the rubber piece off the bolt?

              rusEfi - DIY ECU
              93 EFI: tach cluster, aspire mirrors & spindles. ZX2 master cylinder, BP+G25 swap with a door hinge, rio struts. 205/50r15, 140mph speedometer,rear disk brakes, mini cooper + subaru front brakes rear sway bar

              Comment


              • #8
                you need a cut off wheel and a torch or some source of heat. at the bottom of the stem cut on the rear facing part of the collar, then go 180* from that cut and do it again (bottom of collar). the strut will come out minus the rubber and collet. cut/peal away the rubber. alternately heat and PB the collet untill it releases the bolt.
                Last edited by FestYboy; 02-26-2012, 12:33 AM.
                Trees aren't kind to me...

                currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                • #9
                  Wow!

                  I guess I can cut these since I am replacing them anyway... Just need to be careful not to cut the beam.

                  So, this is the only way? How do I prevent this thing in the future - anti-seize on the bolt?
                  rusEfi - DIY ECU
                  93 EFI: tach cluster, aspire mirrors & spindles. ZX2 master cylinder, BP+G25 swap with a door hinge, rio struts. 205/50r15, 140mph speedometer,rear disk brakes, mini cooper + subaru front brakes rear sway bar

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Wow you guys sure have it tough with rust!
                    An air chisel with the punch tip will usually
                    loosen anything and drive the bolt through with
                    out harming the bolt or any other part. thread the
                    nut on a couple turns. Liquid teflon or silicone may
                    slow rust down some. Marine grease ? Maybe a local
                    rust expert can help there.
                    Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                    • #11
                      The bolt is already free correct? Put a socket on it and apply pressure downwards while turning the socket to the left. This will cause the bolt to bite into the rubber and pull it self out.

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                      • #12
                        I've never done one but couldn't you run a bolt into the threads on the inside and push the stuck one out? Spin the stuck bolt with an impact while your doing it.

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                        • #13
                          The nut is on the blind side, the sleeve seized on the bolt and broke the outside
                          of the rubber from the shock ring.

                          Can you come up from under side and cut the bolt flush to the shock
                          with a sawzall ? Shouldn't have to cut anything else if that tool is around!
                          Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                          • #14
                            Mapp gas torch & spinning the bolt with an (electrical) impact did the job for me! Left side is ready.

                            Next step is the right side - so far the bolt is seized in the nut/strut. Plan is to let is set with PB for a day and then I'm heating it up...
                            rusEfi - DIY ECU
                            93 EFI: tach cluster, aspire mirrors & spindles. ZX2 master cylinder, BP+G25 swap with a door hinge, rio struts. 205/50r15, 140mph speedometer,rear disk brakes, mini cooper + subaru front brakes rear sway bar

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              This does not look like fun, I am in a similar situation where I have tried turning one of the lower rear shock bolts, and it is binding. I know it's going to be a problem.
                              Not trying to steal a thread, but what do you do if the captive nut welds break?

                              -1989 festiva auto to standard conversion, bp g5mr white, aspire swap- October 2010 Festiva of the Month
                              -1993 festiva stock standard blue, kia rio front struts

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