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What to do when you can't remove your CV Axle

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  • What to do when you can't remove your CV Axle

    Hi Everyone,

    So Last week Wednesday I went to take out both cv axles and replace them as they were making some bad noises. So I took them out of the hubs and with about 10 minutes of prying the drive side came out. Well the passenger side just wouldn't come out. I tried, and tried, and tried, and tried and I had 2 other friends trying as well. It was in there for good. So what do you do when you need your car back together but don't want to replace your transmission? Here is what I did, and I hope it helps others as well.

    I started by removing the inner axle boot. From there I removed the clip holding the axle in inside the cup. I then cleaned out all of the grease within the inner cup. From there I put in some new grease and inserted the new axle minus that cup. I then put the boot back on and re-secured it. So far so good with doing that. I am aware that doing this isn't the best idea, but it worked and if we pried anymore on that tranny it would crack.

    So I hope this helps as an option for those with the same difficulty. This is obviously not a first choice option, but it does work.

    -1989 festiva auto to standard conversion, bp g5mr white, aspire swap- October 2010 Festiva of the Month
    -1993 festiva stock standard blue, kia rio front struts

  • #2
    Usually takes 2 people... one guy gets leverage from underneath on the CV at the transmission case with the longest prybar you can find. Other guy will get a BIG punch (chisel types work well for this) and a BFH... place the punch on the trans side of the CV Axle, so that it's aimed at the wheel and as level to the ground as possible while still getting a solid 'bite' on the CV joint. One guy firmly pulls with as much pressure as possible on the pry bar. Don't yank the pry bar, you can very well move the car off the jack stands/lift that way. So basically, the constant outward pressure from the prybar and a couple GOOD whacks on the punch with the BFH should get it out. Rotate the CV and repeat process until it frees itself. it might come out mangled but hey, you got a new CV joint ready to go in, right?

    95% sure that the little retaining collar on the CV splines got jacked up (did your trans grenade?) and it's catching on the retainer groove.
    Last edited by DON SVO; 02-21-2012, 12:09 PM.
    1989 Carby L: Stock. Slow.
    1998 Mustang Cobra: ported heads, cams, longtubes, 4.30 gears
    2016 Focus ST: daily driven go-kart

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    • #3
      Use impact method..big slide hammer or drift and big ball pean.
      Hit it like you want to drive that shaft clear across the yard !!
      Only have one out at a time.

      whups..Don beat me to it. That the same idea!!
      Last edited by Movin; 02-21-2012, 12:12 PM.
      Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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      • #4
        Yerp, slide pull hammer, ratchet strap and a couple tugs it'll pop right out every time.
        2008 Kia Rio- new beater
        1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
        1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
        1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
        1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
        1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
        1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
        1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



        "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

        Comment


        • #5
          Prying on the trans case hard is dangerous and asking for damage. The trans case is very thin around the differential. The best bet is to use the stock knuckle/rotor as a slide hammer, it uses the play in the CV to slide a bit. Worst case, use a little pressure at the trans end.

          Often times having someone pull on the knuckle while you tap gently on the inner CV will free up all but the most stubborn c-clips.

          And as others have noted - only pull one axle at a time. It's too easy to dump the spiders into the case
          1991 Mercury Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT Swapped AWD Conversion

          Rocketchips!
          High Flow B3/B6/BP VAF Adapters for sale!
          Bolt-on Weber Carb Adapters!

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Rocketman View Post
            Prying on the trans case hard is dangerous and asking for damage. The trans case is very thin around the differential.

            Definitely, it's another reason I made sure to say use steady, firm pressure and don't jerk on it. The punch should be the 'shock'. I've got a cracked trans case in my garage currently!

            Some folks don't have slide hammers
            1989 Carby L: Stock. Slow.
            1998 Mustang Cobra: ported heads, cams, longtubes, 4.30 gears
            2016 Focus ST: daily driven go-kart

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by DON SVO View Post
              Some folks don't have slide hammers
              Originally posted by Rocketman View Post
              The best bet is to use the stock knuckle/rotor as a slide hammer, it uses the play in the CV to slide a bit
              The Capri FSM actually says to use this method for removing axles
              1991 Mercury Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT Swapped AWD Conversion

              Rocketchips!
              High Flow B3/B6/BP VAF Adapters for sale!
              Bolt-on Weber Carb Adapters!

              Comment


              • #8
                I had to remove the innards from the inner joint like you did but then I hooked a slide hammer to a 2-jaw puller which was clamped to the remains of the inner joint and got it out that way.

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                • #9
                  This is the best tool to use in your situation:


                  Can be bought here:
                  http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item....re&dir=catalog

                  It slides through the transmission where the other cv shaft was. Slight tap and the axle is out.

                  You can cheat and use a long screwdriver to do the same thing.
                  The Festiva Store
                  Specializing in restoration, tuning and custom parts.

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                  • #10
                    I like that tool alot. I did read through all of the methods of how to remove the cv axle, but I was giving another solution for those who try try and try and can't get the axle out.

                    Thanks for the other input.

                    -1989 festiva auto to standard conversion, bp g5mr white, aspire swap- October 2010 Festiva of the Month
                    -1993 festiva stock standard blue, kia rio front struts

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Rocketman View Post
                      Prying on the trans case hard is dangerous and asking for damage. The trans case is very thin around the differential. The best bet is to use the stock knuckle/rotor as a slide hammer, it uses the play in the CV to slide a bit. Worst case, use a little pressure at the trans end.

                      Often times having someone pull on the knuckle while you tap gently on the inner CV will free up all but the most stubborn c-clips.

                      And as others have noted - only pull one axle at a time. It's too easy to dump the spiders into the case
                      I've ripped 2 inner cv's apart doing that lol..
                      2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                      1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                      1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                      1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                      1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                      1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                      1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                      1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                      "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        I use a cold chisel. Not saying it's the right way but it's what I do when a pry bar or yanking isn't cutting it.
                        91 Festiva BP Autocross/Track/Rallycross hopeful
                        14 C7 Z51

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                        • #13
                          If you need to shear a snap-ring.. you need at a one inch drift and a big hammer
                          to get it done. Special Snap-on tool, that would be awesome too. 2nd person prying,
                          pulling and guiding, is good. strap holding and applying tension, really good. The
                          bottom line is the inner cv knuckle needs hard repetitive impacts until the shaft
                          comes out. Rotate to cut through the ring if its not in its groove. Do not be gentle
                          with the hammer, Do be gentle with the case and wedging or prying efforts. A drift
                          is a round solid stock of mild steel or brass cut to appropriate length. I like about
                          18" for this type of action.
                          Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            never had one not come out yet. The hardest one I had I used a method I read on here and it popped real easy....use a pry bar between the case and axle and apply pressure but not enough to crack the case of course. While doing that , tap on the inner hub of the axle with a 3 pound sledge....only took a couple of seconds when I had already tried all other (except a slide bar) methods. No extra person necessary.
                            "FLTG4LIFE" @FINALLEVEL , "PBH"
                            89L Silver EFI auto
                            91GL Green Auto DD
                            There ain't no rest for the wicked
                            until we close our eyes for good.
                            I will sleep when I die!
                            I'm a little hunk of tin, nobody knows what shape I'm in. I've got four wheels and a running board, I'm not a Chevy, I'M A FORD!

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                            • #15
                              I tried to pry it, but went to the FF.com knowledge base. Apply some pressure with a large screwdriver and tap gently and continuously like a woodpecker (probably about ten to twenty times) with a small hammer on the inner CV housing. It will pop out like butter, with hardly any effort. I was amazed. You will be too. Brute force, multiple prybars and slide hammers are totally unecessary.
                              Last edited by bravekozak; 02-21-2012, 10:43 PM.

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