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Not enough battery to turn over starter; etc.
'91 Festiva L, 5-speed; 180,000 miles, owned since June of '99.
Spark plugs always look excellent, car runs great; needs oil seals on cam & crank shafts, changed timing belt at 100,000 miles, new valve cover gasket is probably not a bad idea. 35 mpg on the freeway keeping up in traffic, far better if allowed loaf; with 13" rims. Recently purchased distributor cap, rotor, plug wires and new plugs; to be installed.
A new 75 month entirely sealed battery, the type no water can be added to; I'm guessing is about a year old since the car is about ten miles distant with the battery receipt in the glove compartment. The battery is at my apartment on a 1.5 amp trickle charger.
What was slowly starting to seem a problem; is something I thought possibly related to winter driving at night with the headlights, wipers & heater fan motor, all on. Plus the radiator cooling fan, which runs constantly. I figured I was driving too short of a distance lately, often times; to allow the battery to charge adequately: While using many electrical devices all at once; draining lots of energy. I wasn't totally happy with that theory; since even after a long drive the starter seemed sort of sluggish, if I was paying attention.
This was the past month or so, if not longer; since I have a hard time remembering when I first noticed the starter seeming to not work quite right. The motor turned over less vigorously; than I'd been used to with the new battery, for a long time previously. The thing which made the theory of winter driving with lots of electrical accessories, continue to keep me doubtful I was mistaken; was that though the starter seemed a little sluggish, that never worsened appreciably. Or slowly enough I had a hard time noticing?
I'd been used to turning over the key to start the car; and having the starter respond vigorously. Then the motor started almost instantly, that even while cold ran exceptionally well. Even with the starter seeming a little sluggish, the car has started the same; and ran great too. Except for sensitivity to very heavy rains; so that I'd recently bought the new distributor cap, rotor, plug and coil wires, and spark plugs to install. That had solved the problem of the car's poor performance in heavy rains before; I figured not a bad time to do the job again.
Last night I drove into town, that's not much over a mile or two at the most. I made three stops downtown when the car's motor was shut off; and after the third decided to go see a friend I'd not seen in several months, except for once a couple nights ago. I guess where my friend lives is seven or eight miles out of town. Once I got there I suggested we might have dinner someplace; during which time I left the car running since not planning to be stopped long. The night was cold, for one thing.
We drove about two miles, to a big enough intersection; there is a stop light with left turn lanes in all directions. We made a ninety degree turn, so the motor slowed to idle; when I noticed the electrical charging light flickering red. When the motor revved a little the light went dark again. At a place, which for a long distance in either direction; seemed a far better spot to have trouble at, than had we proceeded onwards. So I took the initiative; to be safe, rather than sorry. There are commercial establishments there; including where my friend had a job, and is a well liked person. We said hello, got a couple of coffees, ate some free food they gave us, used the rest room; then returned to the car.
Turning the ignition key the starter wouldn't do anything; and there was only a click each time the key was turned. Trying the headlights those seem as bright or nearly so, as while the car is running normally.
Under the hood, the battery's positive terminal has a nice flexible rubber covering, so I'd never seen the condition of that cable connection; while the negative terminal which is exposed has always looked excellent. The shop selling me the new battery cleaned all the rust and corrosion off the metal bracket holding down the battery and repainted that black. That part of the motor bay always looked good with the new battery; inspiring confidence which now seems misplaced, due to the rubber cover on the positive terminal.
Lifting the rubber covering over the positive terminal and cable connection, there is a pasty sort of greenish white accumulation on the outside of the cable connection, also on top of the battery around the bottom of the terminal. Though there is nothing on the positive terminal, which is as clean and shiny as when the battery was installed; or within the shim around the positive terminal made from an aluminum can, so the cable connector can be tightened adequately, nor between that shim and the inside of the cable connector.
The positive battery cable or maybe both, I'm planning to replace, or at least the nut and bolt on the positive cable connector; since the nut has gotten rounded enough I used vice-grips to get the connector off the terminal, by gently rotating the connector.
When I had the previous battery, lots crud similar to that on the outside of the positive terminal cable connector under the rubber cover; used to accumulate all over the exposed metal of the battery hold down fittings, and the battery terminals and cables. I periodically used baking soda and water, and probably a wire brush to clear away the crud, which always quickly accumulated again. The people in the shop selling me the new battery, said the build up of crud was from my getting the very last life out of the old battery I possibly could; causing caustic fumes to be expelled from the water lid vents. Something like that; if perhaps I'm not perfectly technically accurate.
We had to get a taxi, so I also brought the battery back to my apartment to put that on the trickle charger. The charger has a yellow light which comes on while charging; which has been on the charger six hours and seems to be working fine. When charged a green light comes on. Or a red one if something is wrong. Tomorrow I'll take the battery to the place where I bought that, to have them test the battery; which if not damaged should've fully charged by then.
The alternator is the same one as when I bought the car the spring of '99 with 85,000 miles; though oily now from being near the leaky cam and crank seals, timing belt, etc. With the oil leaks the motor has started to smell like there is some oil getting onto the exhaust manifold; so I'm wondering if that is from a leaking valve cover gasket?
What I did notice not long after shutting off the motor, is the drive belt pulley on the alternator was too hot to touch more than an instant; while the alternator itself though warm wasn't overly so, I could rest my thumb on pushing hard for any length of time without feeling uncomfortable. The belt seems taut if not rigidly tight; or what I've normally felt about right.
The cab driver who drove us home, was someone who'd known my friend. The driver suggested the problem could be the car's coil; and that a bad coil could ruin a new battery.
I got on the NAPA website; and found a replacement ignition coil for $70, part # ECH IC134 There is also another thing called an ignition coil resister; which looks like a long wire type thing, for $22. Part # ECH ICR22 Can I take the current coil somewhere to have that tested? And what is the "resistor" thing; and should I replace that with the coil if the coil is bad?
NAPA also sells both front and rear alternator bushings; the front about $24 and the rear around $18.50 I'm wondering if I were to install new bushings in the alternator I have now, were the alternator the problem; if that would be a lasting remedy, worthwhile enough to do? And, how difficult is installing new bushings in the alternator?
NAPA also lists six different alternators they sell; ranging in price from three different rebuilt ones starting at $165, $180, and $230. The other three are alternators NAPA won't sell on-line, so I couldn't find a price easily though each of them seems likely to be more money than the one before; with the only brand new alternator the sixth one, at the bottom of the page.
I'm wondering if I have to replace the alternator; will spending more be a big advantage? I'm the type who'd probably buy the $180 one, since a little better than the least expensive. Often with automotive electrics, the cheapest seem no bargain in the long run; since there usually is no long run. The $230 alternator is one rebuilt by Bosch; I'm guessing might cost in part, for the name? If the other three are more expensive than the Bosch without good reason, those could seem too expensive to consider. Though since I frequently drive long distances alone and have mobility problems enough, I'd rather not get stuck in the middle of nowhere and have to deal with too much adversity; the idea of having a reliable alternator seems a good one. I also was thinking there could be ones available elsewhere made with higher amperage, since all NAPA sells are ones rated at 50 amps.
.
Spark plugs always look excellent, car runs great; needs oil seals on cam & crank shafts, changed timing belt at 100,000 miles, new valve cover gasket is probably not a bad idea. 35 mpg on the freeway keeping up in traffic, far better if allowed loaf; with 13" rims. Recently purchased distributor cap, rotor, plug wires and new plugs; to be installed.
A new 75 month entirely sealed battery, the type no water can be added to; I'm guessing is about a year old since the car is about ten miles distant with the battery receipt in the glove compartment. The battery is at my apartment on a 1.5 amp trickle charger.
What was slowly starting to seem a problem; is something I thought possibly related to winter driving at night with the headlights, wipers & heater fan motor, all on. Plus the radiator cooling fan, which runs constantly. I figured I was driving too short of a distance lately, often times; to allow the battery to charge adequately: While using many electrical devices all at once; draining lots of energy. I wasn't totally happy with that theory; since even after a long drive the starter seemed sort of sluggish, if I was paying attention.
This was the past month or so, if not longer; since I have a hard time remembering when I first noticed the starter seeming to not work quite right. The motor turned over less vigorously; than I'd been used to with the new battery, for a long time previously. The thing which made the theory of winter driving with lots of electrical accessories, continue to keep me doubtful I was mistaken; was that though the starter seemed a little sluggish, that never worsened appreciably. Or slowly enough I had a hard time noticing?
I'd been used to turning over the key to start the car; and having the starter respond vigorously. Then the motor started almost instantly, that even while cold ran exceptionally well. Even with the starter seeming a little sluggish, the car has started the same; and ran great too. Except for sensitivity to very heavy rains; so that I'd recently bought the new distributor cap, rotor, plug and coil wires, and spark plugs to install. That had solved the problem of the car's poor performance in heavy rains before; I figured not a bad time to do the job again.
Last night I drove into town, that's not much over a mile or two at the most. I made three stops downtown when the car's motor was shut off; and after the third decided to go see a friend I'd not seen in several months, except for once a couple nights ago. I guess where my friend lives is seven or eight miles out of town. Once I got there I suggested we might have dinner someplace; during which time I left the car running since not planning to be stopped long. The night was cold, for one thing.
We drove about two miles, to a big enough intersection; there is a stop light with left turn lanes in all directions. We made a ninety degree turn, so the motor slowed to idle; when I noticed the electrical charging light flickering red. When the motor revved a little the light went dark again. At a place, which for a long distance in either direction; seemed a far better spot to have trouble at, than had we proceeded onwards. So I took the initiative; to be safe, rather than sorry. There are commercial establishments there; including where my friend had a job, and is a well liked person. We said hello, got a couple of coffees, ate some free food they gave us, used the rest room; then returned to the car.
Turning the ignition key the starter wouldn't do anything; and there was only a click each time the key was turned. Trying the headlights those seem as bright or nearly so, as while the car is running normally.
Under the hood, the battery's positive terminal has a nice flexible rubber covering, so I'd never seen the condition of that cable connection; while the negative terminal which is exposed has always looked excellent. The shop selling me the new battery cleaned all the rust and corrosion off the metal bracket holding down the battery and repainted that black. That part of the motor bay always looked good with the new battery; inspiring confidence which now seems misplaced, due to the rubber cover on the positive terminal.
Lifting the rubber covering over the positive terminal and cable connection, there is a pasty sort of greenish white accumulation on the outside of the cable connection, also on top of the battery around the bottom of the terminal. Though there is nothing on the positive terminal, which is as clean and shiny as when the battery was installed; or within the shim around the positive terminal made from an aluminum can, so the cable connector can be tightened adequately, nor between that shim and the inside of the cable connector.
The positive battery cable or maybe both, I'm planning to replace, or at least the nut and bolt on the positive cable connector; since the nut has gotten rounded enough I used vice-grips to get the connector off the terminal, by gently rotating the connector.
When I had the previous battery, lots crud similar to that on the outside of the positive terminal cable connector under the rubber cover; used to accumulate all over the exposed metal of the battery hold down fittings, and the battery terminals and cables. I periodically used baking soda and water, and probably a wire brush to clear away the crud, which always quickly accumulated again. The people in the shop selling me the new battery, said the build up of crud was from my getting the very last life out of the old battery I possibly could; causing caustic fumes to be expelled from the water lid vents. Something like that; if perhaps I'm not perfectly technically accurate.
We had to get a taxi, so I also brought the battery back to my apartment to put that on the trickle charger. The charger has a yellow light which comes on while charging; which has been on the charger six hours and seems to be working fine. When charged a green light comes on. Or a red one if something is wrong. Tomorrow I'll take the battery to the place where I bought that, to have them test the battery; which if not damaged should've fully charged by then.
The alternator is the same one as when I bought the car the spring of '99 with 85,000 miles; though oily now from being near the leaky cam and crank seals, timing belt, etc. With the oil leaks the motor has started to smell like there is some oil getting onto the exhaust manifold; so I'm wondering if that is from a leaking valve cover gasket?
What I did notice not long after shutting off the motor, is the drive belt pulley on the alternator was too hot to touch more than an instant; while the alternator itself though warm wasn't overly so, I could rest my thumb on pushing hard for any length of time without feeling uncomfortable. The belt seems taut if not rigidly tight; or what I've normally felt about right.
The cab driver who drove us home, was someone who'd known my friend. The driver suggested the problem could be the car's coil; and that a bad coil could ruin a new battery.
I got on the NAPA website; and found a replacement ignition coil for $70, part # ECH IC134 There is also another thing called an ignition coil resister; which looks like a long wire type thing, for $22. Part # ECH ICR22 Can I take the current coil somewhere to have that tested? And what is the "resistor" thing; and should I replace that with the coil if the coil is bad?
NAPA also sells both front and rear alternator bushings; the front about $24 and the rear around $18.50 I'm wondering if I were to install new bushings in the alternator I have now, were the alternator the problem; if that would be a lasting remedy, worthwhile enough to do? And, how difficult is installing new bushings in the alternator?
NAPA also lists six different alternators they sell; ranging in price from three different rebuilt ones starting at $165, $180, and $230. The other three are alternators NAPA won't sell on-line, so I couldn't find a price easily though each of them seems likely to be more money than the one before; with the only brand new alternator the sixth one, at the bottom of the page.
I'm wondering if I have to replace the alternator; will spending more be a big advantage? I'm the type who'd probably buy the $180 one, since a little better than the least expensive. Often with automotive electrics, the cheapest seem no bargain in the long run; since there usually is no long run. The $230 alternator is one rebuilt by Bosch; I'm guessing might cost in part, for the name? If the other three are more expensive than the Bosch without good reason, those could seem too expensive to consider. Though since I frequently drive long distances alone and have mobility problems enough, I'd rather not get stuck in the middle of nowhere and have to deal with too much adversity; the idea of having a reliable alternator seems a good one. I also was thinking there could be ones available elsewhere made with higher amperage, since all NAPA sells are ones rated at 50 amps.
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