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1990 Festiva Fuel Gauge bad Sending Unit

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  • #46
    GREAT SUCCESS!

    I got it within a cm of the full mark, so not perfect, but I'm not going to take the whole thing apart, do all those wraps again, etc, like an obsessive compulsive. NOW I CAN KNOW HOW MUCH GAS I HAVE LEFT! YAY!

    The great thing about 34 gauge wire is that it's slightly thicker than the OEM wire, so that means you need fewer wraps! Because I read that the wraps are not supposed to touch, who knows if that's true or not, but in using thicker gauge wire, that helps with that issue. NO SOLDERING REQUIRED. Just unclip the metal bit that holds the wires down, disconnect the connector first of course, and push it through the hole, and the bit with the wires will come right now, after you bend back the four metal bits holding it down too of course.

    $4 fix, YEAH! I THANK YOU ALL! Problems may arise in the future, who knows, we'll see. I think it'll work, I think it's fixed. Sweet.

    EQUALLY EXCITING NEWS, if not MORE SO:

    I FINISHED REPLACING MY CLUTCH ON MY FESTIVA!!!

    First clutch job I've ever attempted and ever done and ever successfully finished! AllData gave a time of 3.5 hours. Only took me 12+, lol. Man I was intimidated, but when you're poor, circumstances force you to do things. So I just dove right in. Man it was a lot of fun, and a lot of little challenges as there always is with cars. $40 clutch off Ebay, and bam, amazing. Replaced a drive axle and a ball joint as well, also my first time doing those. But yeah, never thought I could do it. Figured if I got stuck I could call in some help, but never had to.

    Hardest parts were the motor mounts, fitting certain bolts back in, getting the transmission back on, lol. I had the clutch misaligned with my cheap Harbor Freight alignment tool (I will love HF until the day I die) because my cheap Ebay clutch didn't come with one, (Lol, I think people are getting the fact that I'm cheap and that I drive a Ford Festiva), but all I had to do was hold the alignment tool up straighter, bench pressed that transaxle back on like it was yoga class, and felt sore the next day. But man it was a lot of fun, and way easier than I thought it would be. Wrenching is just a matter of angles and nuts and bolts. Test drove that thing and now it takes off like a wildfire. But man I got good fuel economy before, about 44mpg, because I'd have to accelerate slowly in order for the clutch to not slip, lol. Least I think that's why. We'll see how these next few tanks go. Anyway, it was a good day.
    Last edited by the_feist_in_festiva; 11-17-2013, 06:05 PM.

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    • #47
      pics please im assuming u r the first to do this so u know u want the credit for it lol.

      Comment


      • #48
        good job. wrenching on cars is extremely rewarding, and at the same time something that can make you fire mad.
        90 festy with 92 FI motor. Digital camo paint. BHAF. short throw. currently 47 MPGs

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        • #49
          How much wire do you have left over?
          Last edited by bravekozak; 11-17-2013, 06:53 PM.

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          • #50
            How much wire did you use? What us your total resistance? Under 80 ohms?

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            • #51
              Good job, now you know way more about your car than you did before, and less to be intimidated about. Great cars, for cheap fun
              -Greg
              Euro-bprt...WORLDS FASTEST FESTIVA !!! 11.78@115.9
              BP, G trans, Megasquirt/ 550cc inj. t3/t3 (tbird) Garrett, REAR TURBO!!!! AND AC!!!!
              Redneck Engineer
              FOTY - '09
              5x Festiva Madness Attendee...FM 3,4,5,6,8
              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LpCZ7...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ
              http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vU_eX...9Pwqw-oe8s2OYQ

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by the_feist_in_festiva View Post
                GREAT SUCCESS!

                I got it within a cm of the full mark, so not perfect, but I'm not going to take the whole thing apart, do all those wraps again, etc, like an obsessive compulsive. NOW I CAN KNOW HOW MUCH GAS I HAVE LEFT! YAY!

                The great thing about 34 gauge wire is that it's slightly thicker than the OEM wire, so that means you need fewer wraps! Because I read that the wraps are not supposed to touch, who knows if that's true or not, but in using thicker gauge wire, that helps with that issue. NO SOLDERING REQUIRED. Just unclip the metal bit that holds the wires down, disconnect the connector first of course, and push it through the hole, and the bit with the wires will come right now, after you bend back the four metal bits holding it down too of course.

                $4 fix, YEAH! I THANK YOU ALL! Problems may arise in the future, who knows, we'll see. I think it'll work, I think it's fixed. Sweet.

                EQUALLY EXCITING NEWS, if not MORE SO:

                I FINISHED REPLACING MY CLUTCH ON MY FESTIVA!!!

                First clutch job I've ever attempted and ever done and ever successfully finished! AllData gave a time of 3.5 hours. Only took me 12+, lol. Man I was intimidated, but when you're poor, circumstances force you to do things. So I just dove right in. Man it was a lot of fun, and a lot of little challenges as there always is with cars. $40 clutch off Ebay, and bam, amazing. Replaced a drive axle and a ball joint as well, also my first time doing those. But yeah, never thought I could do it. Figured if I got stuck I could call in some help, but never had to.

                Hardest parts were the motor mounts, fitting certain bolts back in, getting the transmission back on, lol. I had the clutch misaligned with my cheap Harbor Freight alignment tool (I will love HF until the day I die) because my cheap Ebay clutch didn't come with one, (Lol, I think people are getting the fact that I'm cheap and that I drive a Ford Festiva), but all I had to do was hold the alignment tool up straighter, bench pressed that transaxle back on like it was yoga class, and felt sore the next day. But man it was a lot of fun, and way easier than I thought it would be. Wrenching is just a matter of angles and nuts and bolts. Test drove that thing and now it takes off like a wildfire. But man I got good fuel economy before, about 44mpg, because I'd have to accelerate slowly in order for the clutch to not slip, lol. Least I think that's why. We'll see how these next few tanks go. Anyway, it was a good day.
                What engine/transmission combo are you using in your beast?
                Ford Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
                Nicknamed the car 'The Chiva' (Chilli Festiva)

                Avg Economy:
                Highway - 7.32L/100km
                City - yet to be determined.

                Comment


                • #53
                  i was thinking about this and was also thinking "wouldn't a simple shim of metal, offering the same resistance across the two points be a better idea than coiling the wire and provide a more accurate reading?"
                  Last edited by jawbraeka; 11-17-2013, 09:58 PM.
                  Ford Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
                  Nicknamed the car 'The Chiva' (Chilli Festiva)

                  Avg Economy:
                  Highway - 7.32L/100km
                  City - yet to be determined.

                  Comment


                  • #54
                    For EFI Festiva owners who have fat wallets and do not want to wind their own!

                    The following customer inquiry was generated from RearCounter.com

                    Part #: F0BZ-9275-A

                    Shipping Address:
                    United States

                    Requested Manufacturer: Ford
                    Requested Quantity: 1
                    Customer Comments:
                    Is this the fuel sender for the gas tank? If so, please quote price + shipping.

                    Inventory Information
                    Part Number: F0BZ-9275-A
                    On-hand Quantity: 1


                    Hello. Yes it is a fuel sending unit. The price is $103.50 plus $13.50 shipping. Have a great day.

                    Keith Wisakowsky
                    NOS Ford LTD.
                    Office- (972) 937-2201
                    Fax- (972) 937-1671
                    WWW.NOSPARTSLTD.COM


                    Last edited by bravekozak; 11-19-2013, 06:48 PM.

                    Comment


                    • #55
                      Some of us didn't pay that much for our cars. But on the bright side. I'd you only have to buy one every 20 year's that good maintenance. Also, festiva owners wallets are fatter than if they drove a gas guzzler as a dd

                      Sent from Kingston Ga from my hillbilly handheld
                      90 festy with 92 FI motor. Digital camo paint. BHAF. short throw. currently 47 MPGs

                      Comment


                      • #56
                        I spoke too soon gentlemen. I spoke too soon.

                        Now the way it sits right now, I could live with it, and know how much gas I have left, but it is really really inaccurate, and just annoying. I knew how much gas I had left because I take photos of my odometer reading every time I fill, and it was coming up on the 400+ mile mark. Nonetheless, I filled a gallon of gas in a red container and drove until it started sputtering and running out of gas. The mark was a little under halfway. So I was pretty off.

                        Now days before when I was installing it, there was one point where the gauge didn't even read. I bent back the soft flat metal piece and then it worked. I think they have to touch the wires/shove past them like rude rich people at a party. But that's not really relevant right now, just something to keep in mind if someone runs into that problem.

                        So... I have no idea how to remedy this besides trial and error, lol. If I were trying to be smart I would maybe think... The more resistance (more wire) means a full tank. So less resistance, and lower down the wire means closer to an empty tank. So if my gauge was halfway while I was at empty, then that should mean that I have too much resistance... theoretically. Or maybe I should try measuring ohms with an ohmmeter. Or maybe I should try even less windings, because the 34 gauge wire I have is thicker than the OEM wire. So I guess I'll try that. I probably won't get to that until next week though. But again, I think the advantage of using thicker gauge wire is that you don't run into the problem of the wires touching, which some say should not happen. But if it's too sparse, maybe there'll be points where the sweeping metal piece won't touch any wire? Lol. All this for a fuel gauge. Let's have someone better at this out there do this.
                        Last edited by the_feist_in_festiva; 11-20-2013, 10:55 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #57
                          Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                          For EFI Festiva owners who have fat wallets and do not want to wind their own!

                          The following customer inquiry was generated from RearCounter.com

                          Part #: F0BZ-9275-A


                          This is beautiful. How? No seriously, please tell me how you found this, because I have looked and I have looked up the Mazda part number on the sending unit and called junkyards looking for Festivas and so on. I considered calling Ford and Mazda dealers and even THE PHILIPPINES, I MEAN COME ON. How did you do this?!?!

                          And hold on just a minute. Does this mean that sending units from other models, like the Escort, Pinto, Fiesta, etc. would work with our Festivas? If so, I am going to a junkyard right now.
                          Last edited by the_feist_in_festiva; 11-20-2013, 11:01 PM.

                          Comment


                          • #58
                            I just find out what the base part number is on eBay, by searching for Ford fuel sender. Then I go to Rear Counter and type in the Festiva prefix for the search BZ-9275 for all engineering levels. I then look for a search result in the F0 to F3 (90 to 93) range (EFI + non-Aspire guaranteed). That's all folks.

                            Does this mean that sending units from other models, like the Escort, Pinto, Fiesta, etc. would work with our Festivas?
                            That's a good question. Take an ohmeter with you and a tape measure. The sending unit is mounted on a couple of studs. As long as the resistance is the same (it probably is) and the float is about the same length, you will be a winner. The Festiva gas tank is so shallow and small, that the float arm will be hard to match.

                            Did you follow the video link in post #30?
                            I can't believe you did this project without an ohmeter.
                            Last edited by bravekozak; 11-20-2013, 11:30 PM.

                            Comment


                            • #59
                              Originally posted by the_feist_in_festiva View Post

                              So... I have no idea how to remedy this besides trial and error, lol. If I were trying to be smart I would maybe think... The more resistance (more wire) means a full tank. So less resistance, and lower down the wire means closer to an empty tank. So if my gauge was halfway while I was at empty, then that should mean that I have too much resistance... theoretically. Or maybe I should try measuring ohms with an ohmmeter. Or maybe I should try even less windings, because the 34 gauge wire I have is thicker than the OEM wire.
                              Oh again I spoke too soon, forgetting this post:

                              Originally posted by bravekozak View Post
                              According to the 1990 Festiva Car Shop Manual.

                              F = 7 ohms
                              1/2 = 32.5 ohms
                              E = 95 ohms
                              The exact opposite of what I said. Does that mean I should have more wraps than I currently have?

                              Again here is the issue. When my tank is empty, the gauge reads halfway. So does that mean I need more wraps/more resistance, or less wraps/less resistance? Or should I just measure out a wire that equals ~95 ohms?

                              I believe I need more wire/more wraps/more ohms.
                              Last edited by the_feist_in_festiva; 11-20-2013, 11:36 PM.

                              Comment


                              • #60
                                You should start with a piece of wire that has 95 ohms. I hope you have the right gauge of wire. I was only guessing because I didn't open up my sender and measure yet.
                                To duplicate that range, the windings will have wider spacing below half full and tighter spacing above half full. You should be able to find the half full point on your wire with an ohmeter. Good luck.
                                Last edited by bravekozak; 11-20-2013, 11:38 PM.

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