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lower control arm nut and bolt

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  • lower control arm nut and bolt

    Well I've changed the lower control arm and tie rod end on the passenger side without a problem now I am doing the driver side and have problem. The captive nut that is in the frame is turning I can't tighten or loosen the bolt.
    If its going to involve having it towed to a body shop and frame cut and rewelded I'll just junk the car and remove the new struts, and exhaust that I put on.
    Any other ideas?
    Early 99 F350 ex. cab longbox Powerstroke 6 spd, manual tranfer case and hubs 190k
    2009 ford flex
    2002 ford Ranger 4.0l, 6" lift, 35x12.50x15 super swampers
    1994 F150 4.9l, 5spd, 2wd
    1988 Festiva 1.3l, 4 spd, 184k

  • #2
    Try wedging a piece of flat steel between the nut, which is square and will grab better than a hex, and the frame. The nut is toward the outside of the channel. You can make a couple cuts from the hole and bend down the channel to get better access. I ended up cutting my bolt but I wish I tried this first.

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    • #3
      Go in with a small hole saw thru the side or bottom of the frame horn near the nut, cut the bolt with a sawsall, get the old nut out thru the hole, get a longer high grade bolt, get a new high grade nut, put nut with a washer glued to it in a box end wrench and stick it in thru the hole you cut, etc, etc.

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      • #4
        Originally posted by denguy View Post
        Go in with a small hole saw thru the side or bottom of the frame horn near the nut, cut the bolt with a sawsall, get the old nut out thru the hole, get a longer high grade bolt, get a new high grade nut, put nut with a washer glued to it in a box end wrench and stick it in thru the hole you cut, etc, etc.
        That's the most creative i have heard yet...

        I had this happen to me the other day... And one of the cross member bolts did the same thing...
        89 Festiva L Carby 4 Speed... RIP. Evicted and Scrapped. I HATE MY FAMILY
        94 aspire 3 door Red -- Former BP, V6 KLDE swap underway! RIP... Rotted and Flooded out...
        2012 Mazda 2 Touring 5 Speed... It's Very, Very, Very green... Daily Driver
        1964 Barracuda 360 V8 Push Button 904 Auto, New Money Pit

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        • #5
          I think you can cut and grind off the head and knock the stub out all from the outside.
          Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by denguy View Post
            Go in with a small hole saw thru the side or bottom of the frame horn near the nut, cut the bolt with a sawsall, get the old nut out thru the hole, get a longer high grade bolt, get a new high grade nut, put nut with a washer glued to it in a box end wrench and stick it in thru the hole you cut, etc, etc.
            Ya I just ended up doing this same thing last weekend to mine.... The lower control arm is a pain in the butt.... Hate rust so bad and every nut I toke off I had to brake off.
            1991 Auto Ford Festiva " Noel " <-- cuz theres No L in Festiva
            1991 Manual Ford Festiva
            1999 ford f-250 5.4L My gas guzzler.

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            • #7
              Thanks for words of encourgement. You saved a Festy from the salvage yard. I hear ya, only on my festy its either really rusty or really greasy from the oil leaks.
              Now if I could find a complete latch assembly for the lift gate I would have it made.
              Early 99 F350 ex. cab longbox Powerstroke 6 spd, manual tranfer case and hubs 190k
              2009 ford flex
              2002 ford Ranger 4.0l, 6" lift, 35x12.50x15 super swampers
              1994 F150 4.9l, 5spd, 2wd
              1988 Festiva 1.3l, 4 spd, 184k

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              • #8
                Originally posted by WmWatt View Post
                I think you can cut and grind off the head and knock the stub out all from the outside.
                If you can't trap the nut this would be my next option.

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