1988 Festiva Engine Fuse Problem

[creyes1994]

My 1988 Festiva has a problem with the 10 AMP engine fuse blowing randomly. At first, I thought it was a problem with the little black and white wire that comes from the fuse since it was melted. I put in a new fuse and I drove it around for an hour yesterday, and it drove fine. I routinely check the wire to see if it was getting hot, it wasn't, and I checked the fuse to see any evidence of melting, there was none. The bext morning, on the way to school, the fuse blew again. I not sure what I'm supposed to look for, so that's why I'm posting this

[Movin]

Look around the engine for any bare spots on wires, any touching something hot
especially look at the little wires behind the Alternator...and welcome!!

[Pu241]

Clarification, the "10 AMP engine" you refer to, where is it located (fuse box in cabin or under-hood)? It should be in the cabin fuse box as there should not be any 10 AMP fuses under the hood. The "little black and white wire" is a little confusing too. Anyway to get pics for us to help you?

[creyes1994]

The 10 amp engine fuse is located in the fuse box in the cabin, next to the steering wheel

[creyes1994]

Ill add some pictures of the damaged wire that comes from the engine fuse from the fuse box later on.

[georgeb]

That black/white wire goes to the alternator plug.

[batstiva]

Have you, by chance, recently swapped the alternator?

[creyes1994]

no it has the same alternator

[creyes1994]

well i dont know how to upload images here, but theres a very thing wire from the engine fuse thats damaged, and it splits up into three identical wires, and when i look at the wireing diagram, i see components like egr sensor 1 and 2, map sensor etc. I suppose one of those things is shorting out, so i just have to find out which one it is.

[georgeb]

The wire coming out of the engine fuse goes to: ECA, EFE heater relay, EGR solenoids 1 and 2, Self-test connector, PAC solenoid, electrical load control solenoid, purge control solenoid, alternator, MAP sensor, and feedback carb actuator. You have to unhook those things one at a time and bridge the fuse with a 10 amp ammeter. Trouble is some of those things probably only work at a certain engine temp. Lucky you!

[georgeb]

Another option is to unhook all of the above and see if you still have a draw. Then you would need to replace the harness or find where it's grounded.