Plug shots. Boosted pretty much the whole time winding it to 6k in 2nd and such. Same plug, different angles. I'd pull them all, but apparently summer is rainy season here now.
Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
judging from the pix, you're one heat range too high. also there's no sign of carbon flecking that's usually attributed to burning rich (and under boost, you should be slightly rich). idealy, the white ceramic should be the color of dead grass (light to med. tanish), and the ground strap tip should be an ashy grey color with a rainbow colored stripe wraping arround the center of the middle of the bend (that indicates timing is good).
throw those back in for another 5 miles of hard driving and post new picks to verify that there's no change in plug condition.
Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
I'm kinda afraid to do it any more. The plug in the pic is actually one heat range colder than stock. I wanted a touch of insurance if I was going to be thrashing it.
I'm still waiting on my timing light, and a regulator should be here soon. I'll be going over little things too like fuel filter and I'll keep the colder plugs in there and see what happens.
I appreciate the help.
Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Timing was off a bit. 10* instead of 12*, and that did seem to help. Vac advance doesn't seem to be working. With the hose connected or not makes no difference, so I'll see about that tomorrow. Had to pull the P/S pump just to get the light close enough to use it and make my own mark with a sharpie where I could see it, but it all worked out fine.
I'll still install the FPR when I get it to see where the pressure is and play with it a little to see if I can make it better.
Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Threw in a new set of plug wires, a cap and rotor, and fired it up to hear a horrible missing sound, and popping through the exhaust.
Start pulling plug wires, and find that #2 cylinder is dead. It is sparking though, so I pull the injector connector and no change. Test for resistance shows 14.xxohms.
This seems really weird, because I just drove the thing to work and it was fine. Started it up to set the timing and it was fine too. Anything else I should do before I pull and check all the injectors and wiring?
Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Just thought of something that worries me. When I pulled the old/new plug after the missing started, it was wet.
Given how the previous engine died, I think I may be looking at a rebuild. I'll do a comp test when I can and hopefully I'm wrong, but I don't have high hopes.
On the bright side, I have a new set of pistons sitting in a box and a spare engine in the yard, so it could be worse.
Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
The plug was wet. Was it wet from fuel or oil? If it was fuel than that injector might be stuck. I've gotten them unstuck by holding them upside down. And tapping them on something soft. Like a piece of wood. Then testing them with an old injector plug and a battery. I also clean them using the same method but putting cleaner in them and running compressed air while making them open and close.
Not sure about that. I'll start it up again for a bit and pull it again and see what it is. Felt thin, but I can't say for sure which it was. It would be pretty cool if it were just a HG. I mean, not that cool, but cooler than rings.
Any difference that makes no difference is no difference.
Threw in a new set of plug wires, a cap and rotor, and fired it up to hear a horrible missing sound, and popping through the exhaust.
Start pulling plug wires, and find that #2 cylinder is dead. It is sparking though, so I pull the injector connector and no change. Test for resistance shows 14.xxohms.
This seems really weird, because I just drove the ething to work and it was fine. Started it up to set the timing and it was fine too. Anything else I should do before I pull and check all the injectors and wiring?
I've seen coolant leak into the combustion chambers of several b6t and b6d engines due to faulty intake manifold gaskets or corroded intake manifolds. It normally effects #3 cylinder, but could happen to #2 as well.
Driving for me is neither a right nor a privilege. Driving is my passion, as it was for the people who invented the automobile, the people who paved the first roads and the people who continue to improve the automobile. Please respect this passion.
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