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  • #16
    It might be possible to helicoil it straight but a new oil pump would
    be better. Make sure all surfaces are bondable clean, gaskets and
    silicone hold oil in better that way. Make sure the crank is not grooved
    they usually are okay but if the miles are stacking up the groove
    might be there. A sleeve is available to fix that.
    Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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    • #17
      If anybody does change an oil pump, I'm pretty sure you don't have to drop the pan, or the exhaust.

      I've never done it, but I'd take the task on myself. Use a new one, but only if something is wrong with the old one.
      '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

      '92 Geo Metro XFi

      '87 Suzuki Samurai

      '85 F150, modded 300cid

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Larry Hampton View Post
        It looks like the tensioner was put in cross threaded. It's at a pretty extreme angle, like 15-20 degrees off square as I recall. It's sorta hard to get to right now to take a pic. I'm thinking maybe the boss cracked off and the bolt pulled over.
        Doesn't the tensioner bolt into the water pump & not the oil pump? or is it that different on the B3?
        1991 Mercury Capri XR2 "GTXR2" BPT Swapped AWD Conversion

        Rocketchips!
        High Flow B3/B6/BP VAF Adapters for sale!
        Bolt-on Weber Carb Adapters!

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        • #19
          Tensioner bolts to the oil pump on the B3. I looked it up in the FSM. I posted a pic of the B3 front today in the custom engine forum. The thread is called remote oil filter, you can see the tensioner.
          '88 Festiva L, stock carby engine (with exhaust upgrade), 4 speed tranny. Aspire Struts and Springs, Capri 14" wheels, interior gutted, battery in back

          '92 Geo Metro XFi

          '87 Suzuki Samurai

          '85 F150, modded 300cid

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          • #20
            Originally posted by BigElCat View Post
            If anybody does change an oil pump, I'm pretty sure you don't have to drop the pan, or the exhaust.

            I've never done it, but I'd take the task on myself. Use a new one, but only if something is wrong with the old one.
            I am looking for the short cut around that darn pick-up tube and screen...
            Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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            • #21
              Originally posted by Movin View Post
              I am looking for the short cut around that darn pick-up tube and screen...
              by the time you rip the oil pump out, you wont have a pickup tube to worry about. :p
              2008 Kia Rio- new beater
              1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
              1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
              1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
              1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
              1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
              1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
              1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



              "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Larry Hampton View Post
                It looks like the tensioner was put in cross threaded. It's at a pretty extreme angle, like 15-20 degrees off square as I recall. It's sorta hard to get to right now to take a pic. I'm thinking maybe the boss cracked off and the bolt pulled over.
                I bought a partially finished project car from a guy one time and he had twisted the bolt off that holds the tensioner pulley. Perhaps that happened with yours and the guy messed up the bolt hole removing the broken bolt and installing another one.
                You gonna race that thing?
                http://www.sdfcomputers.com/Festivaracing.htm

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by zoom zoom View Post
                  by the time you rip the oil pump out, you wont have a pickup tube to worry about. :p
                  A little video from Paul's "Tractor" thread comes to mind..:p :p
                  Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by Festy46 View Post
                    I bought a partially finished project car from a guy one time and he had twisted the bolt off that holds the tensioner pulley. Perhaps that happened with yours and the guy messed up the bolt hole removing the broken bolt and installing another one.
                    This was the blue Festy I picked up as a parts car last year, was missing the cam retainer plate bolt and the cam walked away from the disty. A 10mm bolt from a '93 Mustang GT fixed it. The car is just sitting right now waiting for me to fix that and the front seals.
                    1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                    1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                    1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                    1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                    2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                    2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                    2005 Accord - wife's DD
                    2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                    2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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