Oil everywhere!

[nitrofarm]

I may be sounding redundant here but... is it ok to apply black silicone or Copper gasket maker spray to the fel pro perma dry gasket? Will any of these products disolve or wreck the perma-dry gaskets. I'm concerned that, if I don't apply the silicone or spray, the gasket might leak. But on the other hand if I do apply something, will it wreck the gasket. I dunno, maybe I'm worrying about nothing.

^ Re-Read the above two post's Melon

[DriverOne]

Driverone, I'm not sure what you mean by "remove the intake pipe at the VAF and at the plenum." However, when that is done and "the hose and resonance chamber are disconnected", does that mean everything will be off the valve cover? Please bear with me, I've never done this before and I just want to make sure I've got everything down pat before I tackle this job. Thanks

Basically you're just getting the intake pipe and hoses out of the way.

[Christ]

I dint use sealants unless Im not using a gasket at all, except where specified.

[watermellon]

Finally got the gasket put in. I had to remove the throttle body to get at the valve cover bolt under it. I could've got at it with a box end wrench but wouldn't have been able to torque it when I was putting everything back together. Therefore it had to come off.

I had a real hard time getting the throttle body gasket off. It was torn and was stuck like it was glued on. I used a single edged razer blade to scrape it off but it was a very slow process. I was wondering,...is there an easier way to get it off next time - or is that the only way to do it.?
Back to the v.c. gasket. It took me about 6 hours to change it. I had a lot of cleaning up of the engine to do and I took some pictures to make sure everything went back the right way. It was a real experience and all along I felt it would be for naught. But everything worked out fine. No more leaks.

Thanks to everyone who responded. Your help was greatly appreciated. It's nice to know there are people out there like you, who are willing to help someone in trouble. Thanks

[drddan]

Congrats! Nice to have a car that isnt blowing oil everywhere, isnt it?
I had a bad leak in my F-150. Rear main seal was just hanging halfway out.
It was like a rolling toxic waste dump, 'til I fixed that seal.

[watermellon]

LEAKING AGAIN! I hadn't driven the car over 60km/h til today. I was on the highway and the car felt real sluggish at around 80km/h (about 50 mph). I pulled over and sure enough the valve cover gasket was leaking and oil had been splattered all around. I was able to drive the car home at 50km/h.

The manual said to torque the bolts 44-80 inch pounds. I torqued them at 65. I'm not sure but could the problem be that I didn't torque them tight enough OR could there be another problem? Do I have to remove the gasket and re-clean the valve cover and then replace the gasket with a new one OR can I just try retightening the bolts without replacing the gasket?

[BigElCat]

You'll have to take it back apart.

Make sure you use new grommets. Clean and inspect the mating surface on the head. Any nicks, or gouges?

Are you really using an inch pound torque wrench? Maybe the calibration of the wrench is off.

I did mine recently. I just snugged the bolts using a small 1/4 drive ratchet. Use a cross pattern when tightening the bolts. Start in the middle. I used the Felpro gasket, without any sealer. Works great, no leaks.

If you over tightened the new gasket, you may need a new one.

Thanks for keeping us up to date.

Fill out your profile sometime. A name like watermelon is intriguing. Do you have a gender?

[Christ]

I find it more than slightly ironic that I generally do not go to the lengths described in the manuals to keep everything squeaky clean when working, and generally have no issues, while others (yourself, in this case) are having such trouble.

I suggest you inspect the mating surfaces for any deformities before installing another gasket. There are wires in pretty close proximity to the mating surface. Any chance you got one stuck under the gasket while tightening?

The valve cover leaking is no reason for your inability to exceed 50km/h, nor for the car to feel sluggish (unless you lost all oil, and it was starting to lock up), so there's a different problem with your engine that's probably the cause of the leaking seals/gaskets.

Whens the last time you checked/cleaned/serviced the crankcase vent system?

[Movin]

Make sure the liquid coatings only touch the groove to seal it except at the sharp corners. silicone or ? between the head surface and the gasket can act as a lube
and allow the gasket to roll out or squeeze out. Dry clean aluminum and rubber or
paper will not slide out of place. Nor will they leak, long flat surfaces with clamping pressure. Cam plugs and corners need help..good place for goo such as silicone,
The groove that holds gaskets or the valve cover surface..good place for sticky bond
such as upholstery glue, coppercote, or contact cement. Holds gasket in place while sliding part into position.Some cements such as coppercoat have additional applications. So do silicone's. But using either in the wrong spot can cause the failure of the gasket, seal or oring.

[leapin]

I was re-reading this thread and can't help but notice there has to be a larger problem here than a bad v/c gasket. It seems like the first time and this time the gasket is getting blown out. The fact the oil is spraying everywhere from the v/c would indicate some great pressure. This and the stalling and lack of power might be a low comp/blow by issue?

[watermellon]

I last replaced the pvc valve about 3 yrs ago. I'll make sure I check it and replace it if necessary. I'm not too sure what or where all the vacuum hoses are, but I'll check for cracks in all the hoses I can find.

I also checked all around the v.cover and there are no wires or anything else that got wedged under the cover when I tightened it down. Maybe the gasket got kinked or slipped a bit when I was lining it up? I know the valve cover and the surface it mates to were both real clean and free of any kind of debris.

[Christ]

I'm gonna stick with crankcase ventilation right now. It sounds like you're blowing the gasket off the mating surface by over-pressurizing the block. Normally, you'd find weeping seals and such as well, but it's entirely possible to just push the VC gasket out, or the oil pan gasket.

The PCV valve is only half the problem. There's a block vent on the engine block as well, which is where fresh air comes in. If that filter gets too clogged/dirty, you won't get air circulation in there, and the combustion process will push fumes into the block causing the problems you describe (loss of power, oil blowby, etc).

I'm not sure where it is on the B3, or if you can take it apart, but it may not hurt to flush it backwards with kerosene or soething if you can't get the filter element out of it.

[Christ]

Thinking about it, the B3 may not have it on the block... I believe that's what the other hole in the valve cover is for. I'd run a cleaner through both holes and make sure they're not obstructed in any way.

Basically, just make sure the block can breathe adequately.

[nitrofarm]

I wouldnt take it apart until I knew for sure its the VC gasket. I reccomend cleaning the oil off the top of the motor with engine degreaser & water in a plant sprayer.Then blow dry with compressed air if available. Then let it get up till operating temp (ie fan cylces once). Then use your hand to hold the throttle at cruise rpm while watching for leaks.Def dont take it apart till you know for sure........Should be easy to find the leak once you clean it off right?
edit: There is a "O" Ring that fits under the oil cap.Make sure its there.

[Movin]

Sounds like the plastic inlet tube leaks in several places and that the pcv has something
wrong somewhere allowing fuel to build in the engine oil. When the engine oil
gets hot it spews violently into the plastic inlet tube , makes the engine run bad
or die and leaks oil all over the place.

The engine oil needs changed to get rid of the fuel in it.
The pcv needs to be looked at as a complete system from the plastic tube attached
to the L hose to where the pcv goes in to the intake. DONT just change the valve and hose!!!!! Look inside the nipples at the intake and the L hose, make sure there is
no carbon build up. You can't see through the L hose so push sommething through it
while cleaning it. Inside your valve cover is a baffle that gets plugged up, it goes to
the pcv nipple. Air has to get in air has to get out and have no restrictions except
the pcv valve itself. Then and only then will fuel not build up in your oil and blow
like a whale when you heat it up!!