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  • Plug stuck in head

    I recently replaced the cap, rotor, wires and 3 plugs on the Festiva.

    The # 3 plug will not loosen. I was able to get it to turn tighter but not much. It will only move about 1/12 of a turn and no further. I tried working it back and fourth a lot and no more movement than 1/12 of a turn. I was afraid to turn to hard and strip the threads in the head. Car is running decent now so I stopped trying to get it out for now.

    Any good ideas on how to get it to loosen while the head is on the engine. Don't see how any penetrating oil will make it into the threads with the gasket under the plug sealing against the head.

    Festivame

    PS I had the engine cold when I first tried it and also tried removing it when the engine was warm (not at full operating temp.)
    Last edited by Festivame; 06-07-2012, 09:55 PM. Reason: added info

  • #2
    If you can turn it back and forth, like you said, penetrating oil may be able to get in there.
    Spray it, and turn it, spray it and turn it. It should free up if you can move it.

    I had to use a breaker bar on mine last fall.

    When you get it out, try to find a tap to clean up the threads and be sure to use anti-seize on the threads of the replacment plugs!
    Dan




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    • #3
      Originally posted by drddan View Post
      If you can turn it back and forth, like you said, penetrating oil may be able to get in there.
      Spray it, and turn it, spray it and turn it. It should free up if you can move it.

      I had to use a breaker bar on mine last fall.

      When you get it out, try to find a tap to clean up the threads and be sure to use anti-seize on the threads of the replacment plugs!
      You can bet the 3 I already changed do have some anti-seise on them.

      I was afraid to use any thing like a breaker bar on it. Maybe I am being to easy on it.

      One person I know said to get some Kroll oil and keep spraying it with it and over time it will creep under the gasket.

      Thanks for your quick response.

      Festivame

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      • #4
        Pb blaster is king , way better than kroil i deal in rusty hi lo chains every day kroil is trash , pb blaster keep soaking it every 6 hrs it will get in there

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        • #5
          Originally posted by runner406 View Post
          Pb blaster is king , way better than kroil i deal in rusty hi lo chains every day kroil is trash , pb blaster keep soaking it every 6 hrs it will get in there
          PB blaster is my norm so I will have to try some more. I did put it on there when I was trying to remove the plug. I will spray the PB on it for a week or so and try again.

          I just wasn't sure it would make it under the metal seal ring on the plug at all.

          Festivame

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          • #6
            Had this happen on a couple motors.Its a little nerve racking.But keep using the PB on a COLD COLD cyl head.Just like you are doing.Plus before I start I clean out the pocket very well with compressed air.That way when it does start coming out.I'm not washing dirt down into the chamber. I agree with above post about Kroil.Its not as good & its very corrosive.Good luck you'll get it out-
            Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
            Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
            Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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            • #7
              Keep a can of PB in the car and spray it several times a day. The heat cycles should help suck it into the threads. Just keep working with it. Worst case, you pull the head. Not a huge issue on these cars.
              Brian

              93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
              04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
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              • #8
                Originally posted by nitrofarm View Post
                Had this happen on a couple motors.Its a little nerve racking.But keep using the PB on a COLD COLD cyl head.Just like you are doing.Plus before I start I clean out the pocket very well with compressed air.That way when it does start coming out.I'm not washing dirt down into the chamber. I agree with above post about Kroil.Its not as good & its very corrosive.Good luck you'll get it out-
                I did not know about the Kroll oil being corrosive :eeeeeek: That I will not be using, thanks for the info. I see they make a product to spray on it and chill it also. I may try something like that also, if the Blaster won't get in there.

                I also read On the Nova site in the past about a 50/50 mix of I believe transmission fluid and acetone will work better than anything else. I may even try this if the Blaster doesn't work.

                Thanks for the responses everyone.

                Festivame

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                • #9
                  If you get it up to operating temp, some bee wax might soak in. Never tried it on spark plugs though, so your risk.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Festivame View Post
                    I did not know about the Kroll oil being corrosive :eeeeeek: That I will not be using, thanks for the info. I see they make a product to spray on it and chill it also. I may try something like that also, if the Blaster won't get in there.

                    I also read On the Nova site in the past about a 50/50 mix of I believe transmission fluid and acetone will work better than anything else. I may even try this if the Blaster doesn't work.

                    Thanks for the responses everyone.

                    Festivame
                    Sooner or later you are going to have to start putting some torque on the plug. Just keep going back and forth.While increasing the force. Its not just going to completely loosen up and walk out. At least it never works that way for me.Just keep the pocket filled with penetrating oil. Seriously I fill the pocket so its half way up the plug.Then start getting aggresive with it.Like someone said above.Worst case you pull the head.But you already got it to break free.So I doubt you'll have to go through that.But just make sure you are doing it on a cold head. You'll junk it if the head is hot.Good luck
                    Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                    Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                    Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                    • #11
                      Keep hitting it with PB, eventually it will creep into the threads, especially if it is as loose as you say. May take days. Don't snap it off, major problem. Be patient especially if the plug is rusty.

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                      • #12
                        Another thing to figure is that since the threads move, it's the washer (we have washers, right) that is stuck to the head. Both working it and penetrating oil will loosen it up.

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                        • #13
                          pb blaster works. if u use a breaker bar,u might strip threads. keep spraying blaster on plug,for a few days,keep trying to get it out, when its cold,and warm. can always put a heli coil in ,if u, strip it

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