Do one side at a time to prevent loss of side gear. And don't spin the other side with one axle out.
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Originally posted by nitrofarm View PostChob,they are right & left specific. You need two different seals fyiOriginally posted by GenevaDirt View PostI've seen that posted before....but I have yet to get 2 different seals when I have bought them for myself. Rock Auto only list one part number as does the Advanced Auto site.Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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It's actually quite easy...as in: I was STUNNED that I just had to give it a few taps with a big screwdriver and 8 lb. sledgehammer and it came right out. Went back in with a few taps. It took me about five minutes (including getting underneath/getting out and grabbing my new passenger side axle. When I had to change the driver's side axle on my Escort GT, my voice was getting hoarse from screaming at it LOL.
Also, a few good tips are:
1. When car is cool (hey, better safe than sorry), grab a clean bucket to catch the transmission fluid that drains after the removal of the axle, in case you want to reuse it.
2. Try not to pry too much on the transmission case. They are cast metal and can crack if not careful.
3. Don't gouge the seal. But you're replacing that, so ignore that. Once out, take out the outer end from the steering knuckle. A wooden rod or something similar might be necessary to punch it out.
4. One side at a time to prevent dropping a gear in the tranny.
5. Lube the splines on the new axle on both ends with provided lube (not necessary, but helps a lot)
6. I usually install the inner end in the tranny, then slip the outer end in place through the steering knuckle. Holds it in place a bit better while you tap with a hammer.
7. When knocking the new axle back in the transmission, do NOT hit the outer end of the axle in the steering knuckle without putting an axle nut on it first. This can make it mushroom and you don't want that. And make sure the nut is nearly flush with the exposed axle end. If barely on, you can strip the threads (don't ask how I know that).
8. When finished, remove your speedometer cable housing and fill back up with tranny fluid. This is occasionally forgotten by some. I typically use Mercon V.
9. Also, a lot of new CV axles come with ABS cogs on the outer end. They won't hurt anything so I tend to leave them on.
And that's pretty much it. Good luck- 1996 Ford Ranger 2.3L 141,240 mi (Traded...wish I hadn't)
- 1996 Ford Probe SE 2.0L Auto 126,000 mi
- 1988 Festiva "Hermes" 1.3L Carb. 4-spd. 167,000 mi (Found a new home)
- 1994 Escort GT, 5-spd. with Pacesetter header, and exhaust kit 101,412mi (RIP...T-boned by ditzy driver)
- 2002 Hyundai Accent 1.5L Auto 164,000mi (Wow...so this is air conditioning...)
- 1991 Festiva, 1.3L 5-spd. 75,802 miles. Goes by "Trixie"
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Sorry i havent been here for a while, i started working and it sucks. I feel like a telemarketer....... Anyways, thanks for all of the awesome advice!!! If everything goes as planned ill get to knock this out on saturday. I got the 2 seals, they look different..... One was written as an atx seal the other was a differential seal? I got the axels on order and they should be here from elpaso tomorrow. As with the fluid, i was planning on just swapping it out anyways. Ill let you know how it goes when i get in on saturday!
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