In line fuel pump Q

[drddan]

I've searched til my fingers are tired and my eyeballs are watering.
Not a single hit on WHAT to do with my fuel return line!

A couple posts said they changed it, but not HOW!
Even youtube didnt have anything, except a couple asking the same question, but they didnt seem to get any answers either.
Mental came the closest, but I didnt quite get what he meant by running a new fuel line.

Any takers?

[M3NTAL]

I ran a new 3/8 rubber fuel line from the tank all the way to the engine bay and for a return I plumbed it from off the rail reduced back down to the tiny carb return hard line (under the brake booster)

[Festy46]

Install your inline pump with a temporary T fitting and connect a pressure gauge. The pump should pump up to a preset pressure and then stop pumping. If the pressure is within the range you are comfortable with, just put a cap over the return line. Like I said about my installation, I used a pressure regulator to drop the pressure down to what I wanted. My pressure regulator had a return line port on it so I hooked that to the return line on the car. As long as the pressure isn't too strong that it pushes gas past the float valve and overflows the carb, you should be ok.

[Christ]

You can tee it a few inches from the inlet on the carb with a much smaller line and it will get fuel to the carb under no pressure.

A 2-1 fluid block or a Y adapter with a 1/4" nipple for the return line should be sufficient.

You can also just put a restriction in the stock line, such as clamping an old fuel jet into it.

If you really want to get creative, you can make a small canister for the pump to let fuel into and plumb the return line off it so that when it reaches a certain level, the fuel just dumps into the return line, and there's no pressure on the carb because any pressure in the canister gets vented back to the tank as the level rises.

An inline FPR is probably your best bet, though. They're fairly cheap and adjustable to whatever spec you want.

[drddan]

Okay! Thank you guys! I like the FPR idea with a return on it.
I would think that would be the route to go and give me the adj. ability also.

[BigElCat]

I used the Carter 4070 on my Weber conversion for the Samurai. I had two diaphragm pumps fail that left me walking down the road (one in the middle of winter). I said "no more".

I installed the 4070 in back, down low. It's not only large, it's extremely loud even with rubber mounting grommets. Then I had to use external regulator, a Holley (at $70). The pump was $100. And I had to get a filter with 3 hose barbs (the one with a built in return line).

The Webers need 2 to 3 psi. The 4070 puts out 5 to 6. It's volume is way more than a 4 banger needs. Its said to be the most reliable. I've never had any trouble with mine. The noise is pretty annoying. With the mud and snows rolling on the pavement, the loud muffler, etc. I can still hear the damn pump. All put together the Sammy is one noise making machine.

[drddan]

^ LOL

It looked LOUD! :p

I agree with all you said, too. The 4070 is a really good pump! It looked like it could kick my butt!

I'm goin' the cheapo route, and carrying a spare!
Found this unused, weird bracket on the lower driverside frame, in the perfect spot, right in front of the metal fuel line at the bottom of the firewall.

Welded a thin plate to it, so I can bolt the pump right to bracket, then bolt the bracket back onto the frame. No new holes drilled into the car itself!

If it goes out, open the hood, remove the 2 bolts to the bracket, and out comes the pump.

I can use the bracket bolts as ground. The welded plate allows me to put a piece of rubber between the pump and bracket as a noise isolater too.