B6 Swap Bogging down.

[getnpsi]

You don't send a rachet to do a break bars job. Screwdrivers are not prybars, but butterknives are screwdrivers...

[scitzz]

You don't send a rachet to do a break bars job. Screwdrivers are not prybars, but butterknives are screwdrivers...

Don't forget, inside every tool, there lives a hammer.

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[scitzz]

Back at it, did something that breaks my rule of "diagnose, THEN replace!"

Swapped in parts. Put in a different pressure regulator, and fuel pump. No difference. Getting fuel to the rail, none to the cylinder, plenty of spark.

Hoping to have to figure out where my fuel problem is now

[sam.1956]

Issue with the injector harness? Were all 4 injectors were previously working?

NOPLAY initially had all 4 injectors stuck closed. If you momentarily touch leads from a 9v "transistor radio" battery across the injector pins you ought to hear a 'tic' as the injector opens. A little 9v battery can't source enough instantaneous current to damage the injector coil. I wouldn't ever try using a car battery for such a test. Well, not unless you want to turn the injector coil into so much "magic white smoke".

[scitzz]

They were, and slowly things went south, getting ready to start at them and work backwards. Going to us an LED light to check for signal since I don't have a noid light.

[scitzz]

Each of the two connections for the fuel injector each receive a positive (+) signal, correct? An Led attached to one, and the other end to ground should cause it to flash?

[sam.1956]

If so, you might have to experiment to see which lead gets grounded in order to fire the injector (thus illuminating your LED).

[scitzz]

I realized I am an idiot, LOL. I was testing for 12 volts on both pins, and it is there, key on. Of COURSE it will light an LED Now I have to figure out how to make my own NOID light...First I have to figure out how it works!

[GenevaDirt]

The winner is that twist rachet they have. Twist it back and forth and it spins fastners really well. Its a german design, and you know the germans make good stuff /shamwow vince

http:// http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HEKV1W/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

I have that ratchet and would not give it up for nothing. Has kept me from killing something a few times now.

[DriverOne]

I have that ratchet and would not give it up for nothing. Has kept me from killing something a few times now.

Looks like I might have a use for one of those as well! I wonder if they have it in 1/2"...

[GenevaDirt]

Looks like I might have a use for one of those as well! I wonder if they have it in 1/2"...

have not seen it it if so...but you could just use an adapter.

I do not use it as much now that I bought my ridgid multi-tool with an added ratchet head ( http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/R82235-J...t/EN/index.htm ). But it will not fit everywhere a regular ratchet will.

[scitzz]

A light plugged into both of the injector connections should light while the engine is rolling over, no?

[nitrofarm]

Assuming your cam is timed correctly.Sounds like your timing isnt getting any advance. Is the rotor "clocked" on the dizzy shaft correctly?(you know...you have three postions to install it) Maybe this would explain why you are easily running out of advance adjustmant on the dizzy. If that is ok I would try a known good dizzy. This one may have failed on you when you least expected it to.(This happened to me @ 3 am after wrenching all night drool)
The oil in the coolant is completely differnt issue than your persistant rough running issue ( As someone already stated) Good luck keep us posted....

[scitzz]

Known good dizzy was swapped in. Right now there is no start,good spark, in correctly. No fuel at the cylinder, but 40PSI at the rail. Trying to test the injector connection to see if they are trying to pulse.

The fun part? The battery ran dead, so I have it on a charger, and I need to test stuff. Sigh.

Also, IIRC, the B series rotor can only go on one way, and the dizzy can only go 180 degrees out?

Anyhole, checked that already!

The oil in the coolant looked to have been the head gasket, replaced, and man, I have done ton of those, no noob mistakes there, checked three times

[scitzz]

The LED light I wanted to use doesn't appear to be working anymore. It used to work, and was once the brake light on a, IIRC, Hyundai Tiburun. So I hooked some probes up from an old multimeter to an old escort brake light housing, and brake light. Tested on battery, works. From one connection to the other on the injector connector, and no flash. I worry I may be getting a false negative, since incandescent lights aren't going to react as fast as an led.