B6 Swap Bogging down.

[scitzz]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkIGY9U8XzY&feature=plcp

OK, Everything is together now. No vacuum leaks to be found. No unmetered air seems to be coming in. Tested with carb cleaner at every place I could think of.

I used black RTV to install the Throttle Body from an MTX, seems to be no air leaking in.

For the IAC, I spliced in two connectors since I didn't have one from the 323, tight fit, larger gauge wire going to the top pin, per htchbck's instructions.

Switching between B3 and B6 ECU makes no difference.

Adjusted the TPS, then later played with positioning. No noticeable difference.

Changing position of the idle screw makes no real change after idle reaches approx 500 RPM.

Dizzy is advanced almost as far as it can go, my timing light decided to take a powder, so I have no idea where the timing is precisely, but it won't start unless almost completely advanced.

For the injectors, which were clogged, I made a cleaner using carb spray, a syringe body, and a nine volt battery. All sprayed beautifully.

Obviously, all new ignition parts.

Fuel pressure at the rail is 40PSI.

If I feather the throttle just right, I can get the idle up, and then it sounds fine. As long as I then keep the rpm's up above a grand, it responds to the throttle normally. Let it idle for a couple seconds, it tries to bog out again.

Any ideas?

[shadetree]

Timing belt is off ? Old gas?

[scitzz]

Fresh gas, this was a running vehicle before I pulled that whipped B3. Timing is dead on.

Swapped the IAC wires for giggles. Ran even rougher. Swapped them back. Stayed rough, died, and now won't start.

[scitzz]

Oh, no CEL.

[scitzz]

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[scitzz]

That pic came out a lot bigger than I thought!

OK, I went outside, and cleaned the IAC for grins. At the air hose, it had a glob of....gunk. Seemed like it had motor oil in it.

I have had this bad cap on my radiator. Keep meaning to put another on it. It leaks awfully slow. I noticed a puddle under the car, but didn't pay much attention, until I knocked the hose off the carb cleaner I was using, and got my arm in the puddle. Very oilly.

AH HA!

Open the rad, and it is very oilly in there. Check my oil, and down 3/4 of a quart.

Hoo boy.

It is a little early for a compression test, but I did one anyway. 1 had a little oil in it, 2 had quite a bit. 4 seems to have been closed up some, somehow. Those are the plugs that came with the engine, I planned on letting them get gunked up with anything at startup, I have a new set. I cleaned these up reall pretty, and gapped them to spec. They looked good as new at first start.

So, what do ya think I am in for?

[skeeters_keeper]

any chance you had a bunch of oil left in coolant passages while putting it together? It wouldn't explain why you are 3/4 quart low, but i wouldn't assume right off the bat that you have a leaking head/block/etc.

The compression tests aren't the best but they aren't too bad either. At least not bad enough to keep it from running right. Could be that it improves once its run a little while.

I'm not sure, but I'm guessing the idle problem and the oil are separate issues.

[scitzz]

I didn't think so, but I could be wrong.

Yeah, the compression test isn't too bad considering how long it sat..let me paste from FB real quick for the benefit of others...

Unknown yard motor, although it was listed as 49K, all the guy knew was the stocking number was the one being used when he bought the yard in 95, so it sat in a warehouse, closed to the elements, and climate controlled, since at least 95. Condition of the motor, cleanliness, etc, suggests the mileage was true. The head gasket might have decayed though, is where I am heading in my head. Hard to tell from the compression test though, since it has only idled, and driven maybe 4 miles. At first, I could drive it, roughly, but can't get it out of the driveway now. I can't even back up 10 feet.

I am just wondering if the head gasket might be leaking oil into a coolant passage somehow. I remember the neons had a recall because of that. This coolant looks just like the neons that had that happen to them. The gunk in the IAC looked like the sludge in the coolant system.

It has been going through my head that I could flush the coolant, top off the oil(which is pristine), clean the plugs, and try to run it some more, see if heat expansion, etc helps it smooth out. If it idles funky still, I can try those ideas for the IAC.

I dunno, too tired, gonna sleep a few hours, and look, see what everybody thinks, and tackle this with a clearer head.

Edit for more info!

It hung for a few days on the hoist, and had all the seals changed, new TB, rotor, cap, etc. Oil pan was off for new seal, all fluids drained completely.

Thanks for the help so far, Nate! You Rock!

[Movin]

Can you advance the disty to far until it idles worse ? Like pop out the bolts so you can
keep turning the disty. If you find a sweet spot in between that it runs pretty good,
it would be easier to sort out!

[skeeters_keeper]

Any news Paul?

[bravekozak]

Are the spark plug wires in the correct order?

[FestYboy]

^ and thinking along those lines, are you sure you have STRONG spark? a weak coil will not fire under a load like WOT or accel.

[scitzz]

News!

Sorry, long weekend at work.

Jay agreed with me, the head gasket needs replaced if oil is getting into the coolant. I am about to go outside and put it in before the weather pees on me. Then, clean the plugs again, and see how she fires. Since she got progressively worse, fouling plugs may havs caused a weak spark. The spark is brilliant blue at the plugs on the coil that ran the B3. I have another to try if need be, Artie is one I will never ignore....

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[scitzz]

Barely used antifreeze and a *little* oil...

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[Laurel]

"used antifreeze and a *little* oil..." Yanno what the real problem might be?? That photographers face in the mix...