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How to secure 3x bolts on water pump pulley

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  • How to secure 3x bolts on water pump pulley

    Hay all,

    any tips on how to secure the 3x bolts on the water pump pulley?

    I did a time belt and water pump change but i don't think i did the water pump pulley bolts to tech torque specification, as when i wanted to tighten those bolts, it's almost impossible as the water pump pulley simply spins when you try and do them up.

    Water pump pulley make a slight rattling sound as i havent got those bolts as tight to specification.

    Any ideas ? The car is a 99 Festiva which is the same shape as the Aspire 97.

    Cheers, Jase.

  • #2
    Hand thread in partially.....then stick a screwdriver through two and hold pulley. Tighten third. Repeat......

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    • #3
      Cheers, will try that tomorrow. I tried to use my camshaft holding tool but no go cant fit in to tight space.

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      • #4
        How to secure 3x bolts on water pump pulley

        Or hand tighten all 3 and put the belt on, tighten the belt and your pulley won't move

        1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
        1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
        2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

        1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

        If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

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        • #5
          ^The point where the engine starts to rotate is about the correct torque.

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          • #6
            ^^ Be careful using that method, I've had a couple sheer off doing that. Just use a torque wrench and do it right.
            No festiva for me ATM...

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            • #7
              Re: How to secure 3x bolts on water pump pulley

              Those little 10mm bolts are pretty weak.
              91GL BP/F3A with boost
              13.79 @ 100, 2.2 60' on 8 psi and 155R12's

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              • #8
                Thanks guys. I tightened them good. But what happened after is worse.. lol! I think i got too excited about having just installed new auxillary drive belts, new timing belt, new water pump, major oil leak addressed via changing crank pulley seal and engine sump gasket, that i forgot to d/c the battery when i set out to tension the alternator drive belt. So i grabbed a long steel pipe and reached the alternator and pushed back on it while doing up the tensioner mount bolt with my other hand.... but what happened next, LOL! My grip on the steel pipe or pry bar aka slipped, and the steel pipe came in to a bit of contact with the internal wiring of the alternator, and i saw a pretty big spark down there about the alternator....! Now there's no electricals at all inside thus wont start. I actually posted this on another thread. Interestingly, when i run a test probe from the battery to the "engine" fuse in the fusebox and apply power directly patched from the battery using my test line, all power comes on, the car cranks as normal, but wont stay on. Alternator gone? Sure i can replace the alternator, but what about the electricals, etc?

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                • #9
                  Did you check all 3 main fuses?
                  1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                  1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                  1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                  1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                  2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                  2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                  2005 Accord - wife's DD
                  2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                  2015 F150 SCrew - DD

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                  • #10
                    ^ this issue is being addressed in another thread....
                    Trees aren't kind to me...

                    currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                    94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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