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HELP severly stuck axle

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  • HELP severly stuck axle

    Hey guys I can't get it out plan an simple I've used pry bars flat screw driver crow bars,

    I've also tried hitting it from the other side with a long screw driver, an bought a tool the goes on the end of a slide hammer to try an get it out with no luck ( tool looks like a U bolt tightned down around the bell housing)

    I've run out of ideas an I need this thing out like two weeks ago
    Please help
    Frankie

    fully custom 88 festy (project doomsday) Febuary in 2012 calander
    Blockspire: ken block replica aspire
    AdvancedDynamix: "If you put the same kind of effort into your engine that you put into the rest of the car, well... it'll be epic". thanks man

    http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p...00000110128487

  • #2
    I have come across one like this, the "C" clip was to big, we ended up breaking the axle at the u Joint, if i remeber right we welded something on to the axle and had it hooked right to the slide hammer. We tried using the tool for the slide hammer but it ended up ripping the threads off the tool.

    Last edited by Hot_Wheels; 11-11-2012, 02:55 PM.

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    • #3
      Get some cold chisels and start driving them in until the axle comes out. If that doesn't work your done. And I better not see someone post the "just keep turning and tapping method", they have obviously never had a real stuck axle.

      I ended up taking apart the whole case after trying to drive in a 25 pound pry bar with a mini sledge. It's still stuck to the diff to this day and it is not the c-clip, I can clearly see it from inside the case.
      91 Festiva BP Autocross/Track/Rallycross hopeful
      14 C7 Z51

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      • #4
        It moves in the trans, like I can feel it go back in forth in case. I really need this thing out I think the other problem is I can't get any type of swing with a hammer even with the slide I can get a good pull
        Frankie

        fully custom 88 festy (project doomsday) Febuary in 2012 calander
        Blockspire: ken block replica aspire
        AdvancedDynamix: "If you put the same kind of effort into your engine that you put into the rest of the car, well... it'll be epic". thanks man

        http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p...00000110128487

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        • #5
          Were should I drive the chisels in the the trans or between the bell an the trans
          Frankie

          fully custom 88 festy (project doomsday) Febuary in 2012 calander
          Blockspire: ken block replica aspire
          AdvancedDynamix: "If you put the same kind of effort into your engine that you put into the rest of the car, well... it'll be epic". thanks man

          http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p...00000110128487

          Comment


          • #6
            Try lubrication?
            Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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            • #7
              Did you try the gentle pry with gentle tapping around the bell with a small hammer? You have to get the circlip to self center in its groove. It should pop out just like butter. Even the shop manual picture shows a large screwdriver to remove the transaxle.

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              • #8
                Disassemble the joint like in the pic. Then attach a 2 or 3 jaw puller to it. Hook a slide hammer to the puller with a hose clamp.

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                • #9
                  a hose clamp.... REALLY!!?
                  Trees aren't kind to me...

                  currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
                  94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.

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                  • #10
                    When a diff comes apart from doing "one wheel wonders" it's because the spider gears have welded themselves to the diff pin, so yeah, the circle clip may not be the
                    actual problem at this point.

                    There's a limit as to how much you can bang on the cases, you can break them. I'd like to point out that you never heard anyone say "Hey, it's as hard as aluminum!"

                    That being said, I do have a complete aspire 5 speed. Good case, shifts good, just pops out of 4th. So most of the internals would be good for you, especially when combined with what ever ends up being left of your trans...good luck.
                    Last edited by iceracerdude; 11-11-2012, 06:37 PM.
                    97 Aspire w/K03 turbocharged b6 SOHC
                    CoolingMist Varicool II Meth injection
                    Phantom gripped and cryo'ed 5 speed

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                    • #11
                      .
                      Last edited by georgeb; 11-11-2012, 06:41 PM.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by FestYboy View Post
                        a hose clamp.... REALLY!!?
                        The force is taken up by the chuck of the (body) slide hammer against the bolt of the puller. The hose clamp goes between the two surfaces to hold them together for a few whacks. It was a Mickey Mouse arrangement but worked well on axles that would have cracked my trans if I pried any harder.

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                        • #13
                          Tried the 2 jaw puller method didn't work imma try like in the picture it really is my last option
                          Frankie

                          fully custom 88 festy (project doomsday) Febuary in 2012 calander
                          Blockspire: ken block replica aspire
                          AdvancedDynamix: "If you put the same kind of effort into your engine that you put into the rest of the car, well... it'll be epic". thanks man

                          http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p...00000110128487

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            One time, (after pulling the inner cv apart and cleaning the grease) I drilled a hole in the inner cv cup, which wasn't easy to get to, probably really easy if you have a dremel or die grinder, then hooked a piece of wire(thin stuff, it was thinner than ebrake linkage wire, available by the foot at any hardware store) through the hole in the cv cup to a slide hammer multiple times. It took quite a few pulls, ended up throwing my shoulder out, it was sore for a week, but I eventually got it out.
                            Last edited by zoom zoom; 11-11-2012, 09:06 PM.
                            2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                            1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                            1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                            1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                            1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                            1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                            1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                            1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                            "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

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                            • #15
                              Originally posted by georgeb View Post
                              The force is taken up by the chuck of the (body) slide hammer against the bolt of the puller. The hose clamp goes between the two surfaces to hold them together for a few whacks. It was a Mickey Mouse arrangement but worked well on axles that would have cracked my trans if I pried any harder.

                              I've done this before too, but with a ratchet strap instead of a hose clamp I think..

                              Used the long hook to get in behind the cv cup, which isn't easy to do, its hard to get a bite back there, then strapped the hook to the outside of the cup.. its a really finnicky way of doing it, but it worked twice for me like that.

                              I also figured out that one of the cheap harbor freight prybars work wonders, they have just the right angle to slide in behind that cv, then slam it with a hammer straight toward the center of the axel. That doesn't free the axel completely, but it lodges the circlip on the brink of freedom, a swift tap on the prybar finishes the job. I don't know how well that would work on a really stuck axel, and I'd be afraid of cracking the case, but it worked ONCE for me.

                              Anybody close to me that wants practice pulling axels, feel free to hit me up, I've got 3 more to pull as soon as I feel like fighting with them again.
                              2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                              1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                              1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                              1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                              1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                              1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                              1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                              1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                              "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                              Comment

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