Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

HELP severly stuck axle

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    If you can get between the axle and case, you might try my invention.

    Post your Festiva or Aspire repair and maintenance issues. - USE THIS FORUM FOR ANY TECHNICAL RELATED POST (IE. How do I change my oil?, How to remove axle from tranny?, etc)
    1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
    1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
    1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
    1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
    2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
    2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
    2005 Accord - wife's DD
    2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
    2015 F150 SCrew - DD

    Comment


    • #17
      HaThat looks promising
      Frankie

      fully custom 88 festy (project doomsday) Febuary in 2012 calander
      Blockspire: ken block replica aspire
      AdvancedDynamix: "If you put the same kind of effort into your engine that you put into the rest of the car, well... it'll be epic". thanks man

      http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p...00000110128487

      Comment


      • #18
        frankm201, try the non-brute force, ring the bell method first. It's really "all in the wrist". You may be pleasantly surprised and amused. Besides it only takes a couple of minutes and doesn't cost anything. You only need a big screwdriver and a small hammer. It has worked for me every time.
        Last edited by bravekozak; 11-12-2012, 09:24 AM.

        Comment


        • #19
          My problem was that I couldn't put pressure on the prybar AND tap with a hammer at the same time. With my whizgig, I was able to put a little pressure on the axle, then tap it all around, turn the bolt, tap, turn the bolt, tap...... I couldn't believe how loud it popped out. And I didn't even damage the seal.
          Last edited by Larry Hampton; 11-12-2012, 10:29 AM.
          1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
          1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
          1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
          1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
          2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
          2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
          2005 Accord - wife's DD
          2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
          2015 F150 SCrew - DD

          Comment


          • #20
            I think imma try the finess method again I just don't see out tappin it with a baby hammer an pryin with a screw driver is gonna work but I'm down for anything at this point.

            @larry An as for the little tool how did you make that an wouldn't thhe big bolt puncture the case??
            Frankie

            fully custom 88 festy (project doomsday) Febuary in 2012 calander
            Blockspire: ken block replica aspire
            AdvancedDynamix: "If you put the same kind of effort into your engine that you put into the rest of the car, well... it'll be epic". thanks man

            http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p...00000110128487

            Comment


            • #21
              HELP severly stuck axle

              I've once needed to pull the inner CV apart and left the "cup" in the transmission just to get the motor/trans out

              1988 323 Station Wagon - KLG4 swapped
              1988 323 GT - B6T Powered
              2008 Ford Escape - Rollover Survivor

              1990 Festiva - First Ever Completed KLZE swap (SOLD)

              If no one from the future stops you from doing it, how bad of a decision can it really be?

              Comment


              • #22
                ^^^^^^^^^ LOL, I just did the exact same thing a few weeks ago, when I started the B6 swap. The passenger side axle popped right out, but the driver's side was being stubborn. I happened to pull on the rubber boot with my hand and the boot/axle came apart. I figured it would be much easier to mess with on the workbench anyway, plus having the cup still in one side would keep the spiders in place. I'm planning on mounting the transaxle to the B6 tonight, so I'll try to get it then. If it wasn't for the fact that the output seal was leaking and I want to change the seal, I'd just leave it in the trans.
                Brian

                93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
                04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
                62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC

                1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
                Not enough time or money for any of them

                Comment


                • #23
                  as chris mentioned, maybe just disconect it at the boot, remove the trams, rebuild the axle with it the stub in the trans, here is a good video on how to rebuild the axles. i guess this would be better then risking breaking the trans case to get it out.
                  CV Axle Rebuild* Note, this is a visual demonstration only and is to show the steps to take apart a CV axle *

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I too could not get the drivers side out on the Festy. I just did the ones on the Capri yesterday. Not a problem.

                    And reading the book about installing them. Seems when you insert the axles you are supposed to have the circlip opening facing down. I would imagine that it would go in easier. So when pulling it out maybe the same is true.
                    Last edited by rbrown; 11-12-2012, 04:04 PM.
                    Rodney

                    1991 FI 5 Speed Aqua Blue

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Hot_Wheels View Post
                      as chris mentioned, maybe just disconect it at the boot, remove the trams, rebuild the axle with it the stub in the trans, here is a good video on how to rebuild the axles. i guess this would be better then risking breaking the trans case to get it out.
                      http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-h_i-KOd4l4
                      Will this actually work cause I already have another axle can I take that on apart an put it in the other bell housing??
                      Frankie

                      fully custom 88 festy (project doomsday) Febuary in 2012 calander
                      Blockspire: ken block replica aspire
                      AdvancedDynamix: "If you put the same kind of effort into your engine that you put into the rest of the car, well... it'll be epic". thanks man

                      http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p...00000110128487

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        The bell housing is the half of the case that bolts to the engine, you won't have to remove the transmission to rebuild the axel, but stock axels have a 3 bearing tripot, and a cv cup/inner axel stub to match it...a lot of reman or new axels use a 6 bearing configuration, and the cv cups are different.
                        2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                        1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                        1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                        1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                        1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                        1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                        1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                        1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                        "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          So what you are sayin I just can't take the new one apart an put it to the old bell housing that's still in the case
                          Frankie

                          fully custom 88 festy (project doomsday) Febuary in 2012 calander
                          Blockspire: ken block replica aspire
                          AdvancedDynamix: "If you put the same kind of effort into your engine that you put into the rest of the car, well... it'll be epic". thanks man

                          http://www.facebook.com/#!/profile.p...00000110128487

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Here's a photo of the diff through a hole in my clutch bellhousing. The hole wasn't originally that large, but I was interested in what I'd broke and couldn't figure out how to remove the gear clusters from the other side to get at it.

                            Notice the disc shaped thing in the top RH corner (between the sun wheel and planet wheel carrier)? There's a dish shaped washer that sits behind the sun wheel, that and the sun wheel are only held in place by the drive shaft. How do I know? I pulled them out of the hole.

                            If you want, I'll take some more photo's of the parts to give you a better idea.S6301338.jpg

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Haha, no, I did not say that, I said stock axels have tripot bearings, most aftermarket axels use 6 bearings instead of 3. You may or may not be able to rebuild it as it is, pictures would help you here tremendously, someone might be able to tell you if it will work or not..I'd just go try to stick the thing in the hole, your only out a zip tie or band clamp if it doesn't work. The cv cup is NOT a bell housing.

                              How'd you break your tranny tom? Most guys here throw that roll pin through the case lol..
                              2008 Kia Rio- new beater
                              1987 F-150- revived and CLEAN!!!
                              1987 Suzuki Dual Sport- fun beater bike
                              1993 Festiva- Fiona, DD
                              1997 Aspire- Peaspire, Refurb'd, sold
                              1997 Aspire- Babyspire, DD
                              1994 Aspire - Project Kiazord
                              1994 Aspire- Crustyspire, RIP



                              "If it moves, grease it, if it don't, paint it, and if it ain't broke don't fix it!"

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by frankm201 View Post
                                I think imma try the finess method again I just don't see out tappin it with a baby hammer an pryin with a screw driver is gonna work but I'm down for anything at this point.

                                @larry An as for the little tool how did you make that an wouldn't thhe big bolt puncture the case??
                                All you do is put some tension on it, the bolt has a tip that goes on the end that spreads the force out some. With tension on it, I just tapped the joint back and forth, then put anoth 1/4 to 1/2 turn on it, and tapped it around some more.
                                1963 Fairlane - future NSS drag car
                                1965 Mustang Coupe - A-code car, restoring for/with my son
                                1973 F100 longbed - only 22k original miles, 360/auto, disk, PS/PB dealer in dash A/C
                                1996 Sonoma X-cab - son's DD
                                2002 Grand Prix - daughter's DD
                                2003 Sport Trac - 180k, 130k on replaced motor with new timing chains - F/S soon.
                                2005 Accord - wife's DD
                                2008 Mountaineer - step daughter's DD
                                2015 F150 SCrew - DD

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X