Engine back together, runs, but only a little oil on dipstick...

[Safety Guy]

I just added another 1/4 qt. of oil. It went directly to the pan, where I measured the increase. I think the oil passages may have been clogged as the block sat open with no head on it for over a week.

I also started her up. Sounded bad at first, as if the crank had no oil (which it probably didn't) but it cleared up quickly and sounded okay. She slowed a bit, but I don't think it was anything.

Then when I checked back inside the "check engine" light was on!

Iceracer, I may have put the HG on wrong, but I don't think so. I can see the little tab sticking out at the front firewall corner of the block/head joint. I'll go out and compare it with my other B6 now.

Thanks,

Karl

[Safety Guy]

I just took some pictures.

This is the old HG showing me pointing to the tab that sticks out from the front firewall side of the engine block:



There is no other area like it. This shows the orientation of how the HG goes on.

Next we have my HG job on Aqua. The tab is copper colored due to the spray I used. See how far it sticks out?:



Now compare it with Luxstiva, same angle, only dirtier, so it's not as easy to see:



They look the same. Same orientation for sure, but I think also that I didn't shift it too far one way or another. It was lined up with the two hollow guides anyways.

I'm pretty sure it's on right. Doesn't mean it's perfect, or even satisfactory though. We had a hard time with getting it to set straight on the block, and I know I messed up some of the copper coating.

Karl

[iceracerdude]

It's hard to imagine because I can see you still had those 2 head "guide sleeves" in the bolt holes in place at the time you took that picture.
I just looked at mine and I can't see any gasket anywhere...this is at the front by the exhaust mani where the head meets the block:

above the waterpipe outlet next to the timing belt cover

Just below the temp sender below the distrib. The trans bolt coming through the block


And I've got no gasket showing on the back side either!?
Have you still got the gasket number?

[Safety Guy]

Iceracer, that's the other side of the block from where I took my pics. I'm viewing the corner you can see if you were the passenger side firewall looking at the side engine mount area. The tab is there.


I also just started her up again. Sounded a lot better starting, but the CE light came on a second or two after ignition.

Engine sounds a bit odd, deeper maybe.

I wonder if this signifies engine damage or perhaps a tooth off the cam alignment?

Would a slightly misaligned timing belt activate the check engine light?

Karl

[iceracerdude]

Sure, anything could, even that too low idle, but I'm more worried about that engine dragging you experienced initially, and the lack of oil in the pan prior to start up.
You gotta figure, it only take 3.6 quarts, and you put in 4.25 PLUS there wasn't any in the filter yet, yet you were just touching the bottom line.

[Safety Guy]

I'm thinking the dry head and empty filter got some of that oil.

It's draining fine now, and the bottom half of the engine didn't protest the second startup, after it got "oiled" the first time.

Still, I'm taking Luxstiva to work tonight. Driving an auto will be a treat.

Unfortunately, Prettystiva has started acting up, with her temp gauge going too far to the other side. I'll put in her new radiator and freshen up the rest of her cooling system in the next few days. I'm hoping it's just that sludge that is pretending to be coolant that is the problem!

I'm still open to opinions on the CE light and anything else...

Thanks Iceracer, and everyone else for your attention!

Karl

[Safety Guy]

SUCCESS!!

Just finished a 15-20 minute test run, including drive to White Castle for celebratory foodage.

Everything feels and sounds fine now. I solved the CE problem when I got home, because last night I figured out what it was.

Yep, something simple-stupid! I had forgotten to reconnect the VAF plug! Its end was resting in the right inner fender hole where I had left it when I last took off the VC.

Festivas will "run" without the VAF connected, but they won't sound right and they won't stay running when you try to move. Your CE light also comes on!

This morning I hooked it up, checked oil and coolant levels and test ran for a minute or two. All systems were go. Topped off oil and coolant before my test drive.

So now I just have to clean up, put parts and special tools away and reinstall upper timing cover and recheck everything.

Then I need to give the other two of my three driving Festivas some LOVE this weekend!

Prettystiva because she was a great backup car until she began overheating herself. She's getting a new radiator and as much other cooling system stuff I can give her. And maybe some bodywork and cleanup.

Luxstiva because despite sitting for maybe all summer with no attention, she picked up the slack yesterday and got me to work and back with no issues. Dead reliable she is!! Just rusty brake rotors and the need for a total rebuild.

They all need baths, too!

Thanks to everyone here who helped or had ideas!!

Here's a picture of Lux yesterday, after getting some LOVE:



Karl