Oil Leak: Still trying to find it...

[drumnerd33]

Re: Oil Leak: Still trying to find it...

Tools you will need is a variety of ratchets and breaker bar will help with some things. Air tools are a huge help, torque wrench for putting back together on certain things like if it's a manual tranny then I would look @ the flywheel and clutch and replace clutch while your in there... And when you do the clutch always have the flywheel resurfaced... Also cherry picker(engine lift) and beer always helps :beer:

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[drumnerd33]

Re: Oil Leak: Still trying to find it...

That engine has been sitting an awful long time... Some of the seals may be hardened.. So I would check them(crank and cam) while it's out of the car you can take a small screw driver and kinda push on them don't push too hard and puncture but you want to see if they still have any flex... If they are hard I would replace them while it's out it would be easier. About the fuel injectors don't use the ones on the new motor use yours.. You can just take your exhaust and intake manifolds off the old engine and out on new engine... Of course replace gaskets.

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[FestYboy]

145k @ teardown, and no discernable wear on the rings when i rebuilt Skippy... what i DID find though was that the rings were nearly siezed to the pistons, which dropped compression. finding and fixing that requires removal of the head and oil pan.

as for your leaks, i've had great luck in resealing engines that have grooves in the cam and crank by just moving the seal to a new position. this forces the seal lip away from the groove and there's no need for a sleeve. i should have taken more pix of my in bay engine rebuild to show the steps. but if you have a basic metric tool set, you'll be good to go.

IF you decide to tear into the head or bottom end, i can't stress enough the importance of a good 3/8" torque wrench. it's an investment, but well worth it in the end.
like THIS or THIS the first is a Beam style, user friendly and maintinance free, the other is an electronic strain gauge style, more accurate, and can do more like torque angle.

[drumnerd33]

Re: Oil Leak: Still trying to find it...

Also distributer seal may be hard too but you could wait till its running to see if it's leaking its easy to do in the car. Just keep in mind it's been sitting for a long time and the seals haven't had oil on them and probably dried out... But even if you have to change all the seals same as your old motor... You have a much less mileage motor

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[drumnerd33]

Re: Oil Leak: Still trying to find it...

Yes with any major engine work get a good torque wrench... Also when doing gaskets like valve cover and oil pan.... Do not tighten without a torque wrench.... You will over tighten and then will have wasted your time cuz it will leak again

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[drumnerd33]

Re: Oil Leak: Still trying to find it...

You could move seals... But with how cheap the seals are I would just replace

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[FestYboy]

^ no, that's in combination with a NEW seal, i would NEVER suggest re-using a seal.

as for the dizzy seal, the external one is a 36mm "O" ring, just replace it... not worth the hassle of waiting.

[drumnerd33]

Re: Oil Leak: Still trying to find it...

Ohhhh lol sorry misunderstood I thought that was kinda weird... I've never had a proem with the groove but I have heard of it just never seen a problem with it

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[blkfordsedan]

Considering the low mileage on the Aspire motor, I don't think youll have any issues with oil seal grooves. If it were me, I would install a new rear main seal since that requires engine removal. I would probably leave the others alone, unless you can see where they have leaked in the past. I'm sure it will leak some at the beginning, but the seals should soften up after a few thousand miles. I would use a quality "high mileage" blended motor oil like Casterol GTX or Valvoline to start. Then, if you still have leaking issues, you could always replace the offending ones in the car at a later date. The only other thing would be to install new CV axle seals in the trans when it's out. Dont try to reuse the old seals if you remove the axles, because most likely you'll nick one of them when removing the axles (this only applies if you are removing the trans with the motor). This would also be a great time to install a new clutch kit, radiator hoses, heater hoses and v-belts. You will also need a new exhaust manifold gasket when you install the Festy manifold. Good Luck!

[ajbremer]

Ok, since this thread started out as an 'Oil Leak' thread. I'm going to begin another thread in the "N/A Engine Swaps" catagory:

"1990 Festiva to 1995 Aspire Beginner Engine Swap"