Heat is not working.?

[Aaronbrook37]

Those housings are made of 100% pure evil.

[Dom]

Lol. ( 100% pure evil) its
going to be a couple of days until it comes in so in the meantime I'm just doing some pm's on it

[Dom]

Do I use silicone on the gooseneck gasket ? I found a 2 stage stat tonight at autozone under (1990 Mazda 323) $8.99. So I will be putting it in tomorrow . Just want to know if silicone is needed when putting thermostat gasket in?

[FestYboy]

you use the RTV to gently hold things in place, NOT to seal, that's what the gasket is for. the big trick is to set the t-stat in the recess in the head and KEEP IT THERE. i suggest 2-3 dabs of rtv on the recess and then put the t-stat in place. then 2-3 dabs of rtv around the bolt holes in the gasket to hold it in place. let it set like that for a bit before installing the housing, this will allow you to make sure the t-stat won't slip out of place durring the install.

if the t-stat moves durring install, it WILL BREAK THE HOUSING. slow and steady will win this race.

[Dom]

Ok update , i flush the motor out it was really dirty and so was the heater core. I changed the t-stat, everything went well i now have heat. so i was hooking up my battery and notice i clicking sound coming from that area by the driver side headlight... then when i went to plug the connector to the housing neck for the radiator fan and every time i would make connection it would make the clicking sound also. the fan will not come off or on, before i did this work the fan was coming on when i took the connector off. so now my fan will not come on at all. I check the fan connection with a 12v light and when i made contact with the light it would click and no light.. what did i do the fan was working before......any suggestions please....

[Bert]

ok great thanks , as for the heater core i can not seem to find any info on the location on it any idea?

Festy heaters don't work worth a hoot even at the best of times so do everything else (thermostat and system flush) in advance of tangling with the heater core. I used to think removing a dash and the heater box was a lot of work (ie on a Festy) but last week got to tangle with a 99 Taurus wagon that had no heat. That heater core was plugged so solid with crud that no amount to chemical or steam flushes would have opened it up and getting at that heater core was an entire day's work.

[FestYboy]

i donno about that Bert, all my festys will cook me, especially Scrappy. never had an issue with the efficiency of a festy heater.

[Dom]

any suggestions festyboy on my issue?

[Dom]

Ok update , i flush the motor out it was really dirty and so was the heater core. I changed the t-stat, everything went well i now have heat. so i was hooking up my battery and notice i clicking sound coming from that area by the driver side headlight... then when i went to plug the connector to the housing neck for the radiator fan and every time i would make connection it would make the clicking sound also. the fan will not come off or on, before i did this work the fan was coming on when i took the connector off. so now my fan will not come on at all. I check the fan connection with a 12v light and when i made contact with the light it would click and no light.. what did i do the fan was working before......any suggestions please....

[Bert]

i donno about that Bert, all my festys will cook me, especially Scrappy. never had an issue with the efficiency of a festy heater.

My heaters work OK (ie tolerable, on all 3 of my Festys) until the temperatures go below 0 F. At -20 a Festy heater might as well be an open vent. If I didn't have a 30 year old F150 that will still 'fry eggs' when the heat is on, no matter what temperature, then I'd suggest that Festy cores and hoses were horribly undersized right from day one. I did do the costly Mazda 2-stage 'thingy' 2 years ago plus a thorough flush and none of that made any difference.
FestYboy: I notice you live in the 'tropics'; relatively speaking. Let me know how you fare when if and ever you get to enjoy/experience 'real' cold.

[koRnhead]

I agree with Bert here, even up in Wisconsin I need to block off the radiator when it gets below 10 degrees or so. Doing that, I can run between 190-195 on the temp gauge. Which will make enough heat to warm you up. A good thing on my morning commute at 3:30 AM.

[Dom]

My fan is not turning on when the connection the fan connector to the sensor it makes a clicking sound and will not turn on. And when I take the positive terminal on the battery and tap the positive side it also makes a clicking sound any ideas why it can be

[Dom]

can anyone think of anything im kinda stuck...

[koRnhead]

The clicking is your relay....just wire it to a switch if your so worried about the fan. Problem solved.

[nitrofarm]

I agree with Bert here, even up in Wisconsin I need to block off the radiator when it gets below 10 degrees or so. Doing that, I can run between 190-195 on the temp gauge. Which will make enough heat to warm you up. A good thing on my morning commute at 3:30 AM.

We have the 2 stage motorcraft in my Sons Festy & the Mazda 2 stage in my Blue Spire.And when its zero outside (like the past couple nights) the heat is not so good on either of these cars. Now on my White Spire I have the 2 stage from O'Reillys and it will warm you up no matter what the temp outside. All three cars have the B3. Just a little FYI for you Gents....