I hate captive nuts...

[standard235]

Long story short, trying to remove control arm bolt to frame... and that stupid nut is spinning in its cage on both sides...

How in the hell am I supposed to be able to hold it so I can remove the bolt from it..?

[Pu241]

Clear the remains of the cage, if possible, then get a socket into the access hole.
Maybe necessary to drive the socket on and/or open up the acess hole (have to weld later).
Or Jam something in to keep the nut from rotating.
Liberal use of PB Blaster is recomended.

[Bert]

One of my cars had this condition (plus the solution) already when I bought it, now 100,000 miles ago. Previous owner had used a small hole saw to penetrate through the side of the body box member so as to be able to get a wrench in there. System works fine for me.

[gauge_half_inch]

I have gotten rather good at cutting the bolt on both sides of the bushing and knocking the cage and the stamped square nut out after removing the control arm. Then using the same size bolt with a new nut and washer using an impact to zip it all together. Remember to use plenty of some sort of rust prevention when reassembling. I have had good luck with CRC synthetic brake lube, you can buy it in little handy packets or the the bottle with brush in cap. Apply liberally to the bolt shank going into the to control arm bushing and to the nut/threads protruding after tightened. Let's be real, they will need to be replaced again, why not make it easier on yourself or whom ever does it next.

[Pu241]

Gauge is correct, if you cannot get the nut/bolt to release, a receiprocating saw will save the day.
Have done that myself, but only if I couldn't get the nut/bolt to release.

[standard235]

Its soaking with sea foam deep creep on it currently. Best penetrant available! If that doesn't work, it'll be saw zall time

[standard235]

So I cut the side of the bolt closest to the nut on both sides, passenger pulled out easy. Driver side was seized to bushing so it was a bit more hassle. So far I drove the bolt through the passenger side but the cage is still in there! How does that come out? Still need to do the passenger side. Once this road block is cleared I can make some progress until I get to the brakes at least!

[gauge_half_inch]

If you can't get the cage out, just make sure its out of the way.

[standard235]

I need to actually look in there and see how it comes out

[nitrofarm]

They have spot welds on the outboard side. You can kinda see it in the first pic of the link. Like gauge said you gota bend it out of the way.(unless you want to open up the frame rail & fix it proper) and move it out of the way.

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?42326-Damaged-LCA-Torque-Box

[standard235]

I'm thinking a 1" hole saw and an air hammer with a chisel bit should take care of the cage, then I can reach through with a wrench to get on the nut. Will a 1" or so hole directly under that nut cause strength issues in the frame?

[nitrofarm]

I'm thinking a 1" hole saw and an air hammer with a chisel bit should take care of the cage, then I can reach through with a wrench to get on the nut. Will a 1" or so hole directly under that nut cause strength issues in the frame?

If it where me,I would weld it up after I was finished

[standard235]

Lack of a welder makes that a bit more difficult...

Oh well, maybe I'll just bend the cage out of the way and call it a day.

[scitzz]

John save us from captive bolts!

I think I used a big flat head screw driver wedged into the hole, next to the nut, to hold it still, and later, I wiggled like crazy with a pair of needlenose pliers to rip the cage out.

[Nerd Racing]

I just hacked mine out with a sawzall. BUT I'm doing something different with that whole area.