aspire LCAs are .75" longer per side than the Festy units, just to clear things up
a .25" difference would not cause the axle to pop out as it wouldn't impart much force on the tripot boot, the extra .5" though puts tention on the boot and can cause the axle to pop out (along with a weak circlip on the end of the axle).
i suspect that the Kia Rio knuckles share a centerline measurement with the festy and aspire knuckles (from the strut mount to the ball joint mount). we know for certian that the Capri knuckles have a shallower centerline than the Festy/Aspire knuckle and that forces you to use Aspire LCAs to compensate for that loss of clearance.
you have 2 choices here: use Festy LCAs or use Aspire axles (but not both).
Ok I dont have any knowledge @ the capri knuckles. But I just triple measured/compared Festy & Spire LCA's. The Spires measures 7/16's longer than the Festy. If you look at my chart that I posted a while ago you will see that the Spire RH axle is exactly 7/16's longer than the Festy. I think what you are remembering Arty is that the Aspire track width comes out to roughly 3/4" wider than its Festy cousin.The .250" longer axle I called out was for a LH Spire axle. Sooo by my calculations if you are running a Spire LCA on the RH side with a Festy axle installed. You will come up a whopping 7/16's short of what a Spire axle would be. I can take a pic of the two LCA's side by side with a tape measure for ref. Also here is a link for my axle ref sheet if anyone cares. Post# 20 is currenthttp://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ht=cheat+sheet
That would def make an axle come out.
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Yea I seen the sheet I was confused because everywhere but there they measure the same length over all and was scare that if I order aspire axle I would get festiva one instead. But I think I am going the aspire axle way. And will let everyone know how it goes this Friday.
Twice I have received Festiva cv shafts when I had ordered Aspire shafts. I run the longer shaft on the drivers side. I need the longer throw inner cv that that shaft contains. Still puzzled why you have issues
showing up on the passenger side with no problem on the drivers side. By design the in and out thrust travel is about double on the drivers side so problems usually show up there first. But you have what you have and axle length should be "tuned in" so that your inner cv has room to spare through full suspension travel checked both straight ahead and at steering lock turns. Weak circlips will not be an issue with a reman cv from my experience they come crazy tight! When doing the measuring it makes sense to remove the dang clip until final assembly, just don't forget it because they keep the constant thrusting from wearing out the seal.
oreilly auto measurements the difference in length between the 2 are .1875. i mean that might be enough.
when i put cv in to transmission it feels fine but when i put in to knuckle/spindle i fell it stretch a little at transmission side. so i will try the aspire cv axle on passenger side and see what i got. i do see the weight of the engine did adjust the camber a little but it is more perfect than before now, nice and straight. and car dropped a little up front do to weight. driver side cv feels fine (wondering why it doesn't do the same).
Those are measurements compressed and you are interested in the measurement extended. This can be significantly longer if the inner cv on your old axle is the short throw type. The longest stretch will be with your control arm straight across, level and your tire turned to the steering stop with the front of the tire pulled away from the car.
nitro, posting a pic of your LCAs would be benificial to the forum, so please do post it. also posting the measured difference between the body collet to sway bar hole, and then the sway bar hole to ball joint centerline could clear some things up as well.
i should take a centerline depth measurement compairison between the festy and capri knuckles as well. (would look like this with a straight edge \- with the top of the slant going through the center of the strut bolt holes and the bottom through the center of the balljoint hole and the dash being the depth measurement to the inner bearing surface).
Trees aren't kind to me...
currently: 2 88Ls (Scrappy and Jersey), 88LX, 90L(Pepe), 91L, 91GL (Skippy) 93 GL Sport (the Mighty Favakk), 94 (Bruce) & 95 Aspire SEs, 97 Aspire (The Joker),
94 Justy 4WD, 87 Fiero GT, plus 2 parts cars. That's my fleet.
nitro, posting a pic of your LCAs would be benificial to the forum, so please do post it. also posting the measured difference between the body collet to sway bar hole, and then the sway bar hole to ball joint centerline could clear some things up as well.
i should take a centerline depth measurement compairison between the festy and capri knuckles as well. (would look like this with a straight edge \- with the top of the slant going through the center of the strut bolt holes and the bottom through the center of the balljoint hole and the dash being the depth measurement to the inner bearing surface).
Just noticed this post Arty,for some reason it didnt show in my email list. I'll get the measuremant picsasap. Also for giggles I measured my Carby engine bay & compared it to an Aspire bay.Both chassis have engine's removed. The Aspire engine bay barely measured 1/8 of an inch wider.
Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know- Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently" Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link
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