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  • #16
    I put a (clean) pan under the transmission to catch the fluid when the axle is removed (see photo link in earlier post).
    Then you have to put the fluid back in the transmission when the axle has been installed.
    Original owner of silver grey carburetted 1989 Festiva. 105k km as of June 2006. 140k km as of June 2021.

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    • #17
      If you're going to be doing this it may also be a good time to change fluid. Good lube never hurts. Also when putting the fluid in you pull the speed sensor but then you have to remove a 10 mm bolt and get players and pull the sensor out and then add fluid in that hole. But make Sure you're axels are in first lol.

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      • #18
        I just changed the fluids a couple weeks ago , but i dropped the tranny oil tonight and got the cv joints i will be putting them in sometime this week, I also notice my lower control arm bushing was crack do i will be replacing one of them. And while i have everything of the bushings for the front sway bar are pretty shot so i will be replacing those aswell does anyone have a part number for the front sway bar bushings that go into the lower control arm?
        Last edited by Dom; 05-20-2013, 07:19 PM.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by Dom View Post
          I just changed the fluids a couple weeks ago , but i dropped the tranny oil tonight and got the cv joints i will be putting them in sometime this week, I also notice my lower control arm bushing was crack do i will be replacing one of them. And while i have everything of the bushings for the front sway bar are pretty shot so i will be replacing those aswell does anyone have a part number for the front sway bar bushings that go into the lower control arm?
          Dom those bushings are available everywhere. I like the Moog best,just make sure you install the curved washers backwards- Also your ATX pan might have a drain plug. I have an Aspire that has a factory drain plug and that car doesn't.
          Last edited by nitrofarm; 05-20-2013, 09:05 PM.
          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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          • #20
            So just finished changing the cv joints and since i had everything apart i went ahead and changed the lower control arms aswell . My question is do i have to torque the axle nut if so what is the recommended torque ..thanks

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            • #21
              IIRC its 116-174 ft lbs. But I dont torque it anymore,I just anti seize the surface of the washer & threads.Then impact it on with a little discretion.Its trying to sqeeze the bearings together(by pulling the axle towards the nut) but if the correct spacer is installed it wont change the preload so run it down.....
              Last edited by nitrofarm; 05-23-2013, 03:53 PM.
              Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
              Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
              Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Dom View Post
                So just finished changing the cv joints and since i had everything apart i went ahead and changed the lower control arms aswell . My question is do i have to torque the axle nut if so what is the recommended torque ..thanks
                Both the Haynes manual and my 91 Festy shop manual say 116 to 174 ft-lbs.
                90 Festy (Larry)--B6M (Matt D. modified B6 head), header, 5-speed, Capri XR2 front brakes, many other little mods
                09 Kia Rondo--a Festy on steroids!

                You can avoid reality, but you can't avoid the consequences of avoiding reality--Ayn Rand

                Disaster preparedness

                Tragedy and Hope.....Infowars.com.....The Drudge Report.....Founding Fathers.info

                Think for yourself.....question all authority.....re-evaluate everything you think you know. Red-pill yourself!

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                • #23
                  Ok so i am just finishing up on the passenger control arm and i put the bolt in to tighten into place and the bolt just keeps spinning it seems like it broke from the thread , i looked through the hole while im tightening the bolt and i could see it spinning i tried wedging something but no luck. I am really getting to think this car HATES me .. Any suggestions on what to do????

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                  • #24
                    Try a really wide screw driver blade, it is kind of a balancing act. If that doesn't work you can knock the captured nut out and put a new nut and bolt in like a normal bolt and nut...don't worry about the captured part.
                    Reflex paint by Langeman...Lifted...Tow Rig

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                    • #25
                      Dom dont feel bad it could be much worse. The bolt came out, BONUS!
                      Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                      Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                      Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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