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I agree, it sounds like an input bearing. I had the exact same issue a few years ago. I pulled the engine and transaxle out and took the transaxle to the local transmission repair shop. The rebuilt the whole thing with new bearings and seals for $250.....which included the parts. I had it back the next day.
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Brian
93L - 5SP, FMS springs, 323 alloys, 1st gen B6, ported head & intake, FMS cam, ported exhaust manifold w/2-1/4" head pipe.
04 Mustang GT, 5SP, CAI, TFS plenum, 70mm TB, catted X, Pypes 304SS cat-back, Hurst Billet+ shifter, SCT/Bama tuned....4.10's & cams coming soon
62 Galaxie 2D sedan project- 428, 3x2V, 4SP, 3.89TLOC
1 wife, 2 kids, 9 dogs, 4 cats......
Not enough time or money for any of them -
What about the throw out bearing on the main shaft that pushes on the clutch when you shift? To fix it you have to pull the tranny anyhow, test that bearing for noise once you pull it. Otherwise, inside the tranny thee are the two main shaft bearings, and two counter shaft bearings, and two diff bearings, so it sounds like the kit has all those. You will need a bearing puller.Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
Icetiva-3-race-car-build
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299Comment
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Ok, thanks guys!
Is main shaft/counter shaft bearings another name for input/output shaft bearings?Last edited by DaleInTN; 06-13-2013, 06:21 AM.Comment
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^ yesThricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
Icetiva-3-race-car-build
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299Comment
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Here is a picture of the dismantled e-series manual transmission.
The shaft on the left, on the table, is the input shaft, you can see the two bearings. Both need a puller to remove, and a driver to put on. Still in the transmission is the countershaft, and you can see the upper bearing on that shaft. Beside the countershaft you can see the reverse idler gear, and a mounting point in the case for the front input shaft bearing, where you also see the black edge of the seal.Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
Icetiva-3-race-car-build
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299Comment
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okay I have a nother transmission to put in and am trying to think of an expensive yet important things to replace while the transmission is out. I was wondering if the rear main seal is a very difficult thing to do if the transmission is already going to be coming outComment
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I'd do it. It's not that hard.Originally posted by DaleInTN View PostFestiva: Because even my dog can build a Honda.
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'90 L. B8ME/Kia Rio 5 speed. Rio/Aspire suspension swap. :-D
'81 Mustang. Inline 6, Automatic.
'95 Eagle Summit Wagon. 4G64 Powered.
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The rear main seal is a good idea, and not expensive. Check and measure the clutch too, you have to take it off to do the seal anyhow. Inspect the cv boots carefully for any cracks and have a shop replace the boots if they are cracked. And spin the throw out bearing to check for any noise or bad rotation.Last edited by Icedawg; 07-17-2013, 12:56 AM.Thricetiva replaced Icetiva as the new ride
Icetiva-3-race-car-build
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2533299Comment
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Already havea clutch kit, all new CV boots, and new output shaft seals.
How long does the rear main seal take to replace. I have heard that on some engines it is very easy and others it is more in depth.Comment
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mine did that when my neutral switch was broke.;
www.facebook.com/rhodestiva ;
rhodestiva@gmail.com ;
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/sh...ad.php?t=44851
http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/album.php?albumid=419
'92 Festiva L M/T
'93 Festiva GL A/T
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Unbolt rear main seal housing, knock her out.Originally posted by DaleInTN View Post
Find a huge socket, or a block of wood to span, and tap in the new main.
Watch if the spring pops off.
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Sounds easy enoughComment
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I did my gearbox a while ago.
punched in all 6.
Didnt use pullers on 1/2 of them. I just cut the races, no need to save them.
I kept chipping the races on the diff carrier, so I angerly ground and split, then popped right off.
Was too lazy to do synchronizers. It shifted alright anyways.
Fighting the detent locks will get on your nerves to release the shift rods, but just keep sipping the beer.
Transaxle setups are sooooooooo easy to do bearings on the final drive. No shimming required.
I hate ring and pinion.....
If you are using a puller, and it gets mighty tight before budging, tease the race with some heat to swell and release some of the snug fit/press fit. Huge difference.
And I used a punch to drive my stuff together. Stout blocks of iron so nothing eiggles/bounces, and tease her on, doing circles, a little bit at a time.
People over rate special tools. It's not necessarily the tool, it's the method and strategic behind the work.
Sent from my rooted HTC Supersonic using Tapatalk 2 ProLast edited by jason_; 07-17-2013, 11:20 AM.Comment
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I got my output shaft seals at AutoZone. They said that the left and right were not the same size. Yesterday, I replaced one because the one they had to special order was not the right one. They looked the same size to me, are they? ThanksComment
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Kenowa pulled different part #s too.
They look different. Size, not sure.
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