Wheels are getting hot?

[frankenfester]

So I just did the LCA on both sides. New rotors, New pads, new bearings, and the calipers are new as of february. Bearings are timken, calipers are stock remans, pads and rotors are duralast oem replacement.
As far as I can tell the calipers arent stuck. The bearings are slammed with Mobil1 synthetic grease, New seals, everything is torqued to festiva manual specs.
Why would my steelies be getting hot?
Its only the front (both sides), rear is fine.
I drove it for 5 minutes and the wheels were warmer than they should be. I did no hard braking other than starting out to make sure the brakes stopped bumping (which I originally felt in the pedal)

Help please? !

Sent from Galaxy S4 TAPATALK2

[Fordverde]

r u sure you didnt mixed the spacer up? if you did it, then your bearings are the answer!!
if not, then may be your brakes are dragging...

[frankenfester]

r u sure you didnt mixed the spacer up? if you did it, then your bearings are the answer!!
if not, then may be your brakes are dragging...

What do you mean mix the spacer up? The driver side has never had the spacer, and the passenger side has it back in proper place. Brakes and all are brand new. I'm just lost.

Sent from Galaxy S4 TAPATALK2

[FestYboy]

how heavy handed were you with the bearing gease? too much can do what you describe.

[frankenfester]

how heavy handed were you with the bearing gease? too much can do what you describe.

Im thinking that's my problem. I packed them to where they were nearly red (that grease color) with no metal showing through.
How much is recommended?

Sent from Galaxy S4 TAPATALK2

[FestYboy]

you should pack the inside of the cage, but lightly coat the outside, (where the barrels are exposed) and race, where the barrels run. the top and bottom of the cage should be packed and excess removed.

[frankenfester]

you should pack the inside of the cage, but lightly coat the outside, (where the barrels are exposed) and race, where the barrels run. the top and bottom of the cage should be packed and excess removed.

Is there a reason the bearings act that way wuth more grease?

Sent from Galaxy S4 TAPATALK2

[1990new]

Drive it around the block a couple of times and use your brakes to stop a few times.
When you get back, open up a front caliper bleeder, the fluid should seep out without pressure.
If there is any pressure, there is your problem.

[frankenfester]

Drive it around the block a couple of times and use your brakes to stop a few times.
When you get back, open up a front caliper bleeder, the fluid should seep out without pressure.
If there is any pressure, there is your problem.

So if there is pressure, and I let the pressure out by bleeding, what do I do when my brakes are to the floor?

Sent from Galaxy S4 TAPATALK2

[Movin]

Cracking a bleeder will not make your brake pedal fall. Nobody should be in the car when you do this, it is a test to see if the pilot port in the master is covered or plugged.

Your bearings need to pump grease through to lube and cool. Excess grease is just more
work to do with no benefit. Also , without airspace , the seal can be pushed out or in the
rear the grease caps can be pushed off.

Try and see if the heat is coming from the bearing area or the brake area. A short test drive
when cool should show the difference.

[frankenfester]

Cracking a bleeder will not make your brake pedal fall. Nobody should be in the car when you do this, it is a test to see if the pilot port in the master is covered or plugged.

Your bearings need to pump grease through to lube and cool. Excess grease is just more
work to do with no benefit. Also , without airspace , the seal can be pushed out or in the
rear the grease caps can be pushed off.

Try and see if the heat is coming from the bearing area or the brake area. A short test drive
when cool should show the difference.

What I meant by the brakes going to the floor was, prior to this changing of the Front end, the brakes were to the floor and the pedal was thumping with each rotation (passenger side I think) so I had no brakes. After changing I have brakes, but the wheels are heating up.

So I drive, come home, relieve the bleeder, snd if it just dribbles im good and if it comes out under pressure there (im assuming) is air in the line keeping the fluid from returning to the master Cylinder?

The rears are fine. I probably need to take some grease out of the Front though. I think I went overboard trying to keep them from falling due to lack of the right amount.

Sent from Galaxy S4 TAPATALK2

[Movin]

Its not just normal heat? You are seeing hot paint, or grease melted coming out?
Sometimes if care is taken they can break in and be okay. The wheel spins easy when in the air or you would not have even drove in the first place??

[frankenfester]

Its not just normal heat? You are seeing hot paint, or grease melted coming out?
Sometimes if care is taken they can break in and be okay. The wheel spins easy when in the air or you would not have even drove in the first place??

Out of gear when in the air, they free spin for a couple rotations and then they (under pressure of something slowed to a stop under only the power of me rotating them by hand)

There's no melting paint. No grease. Just warm warm wheels.

Sent from Galaxy S4 TAPATALK2

[Bert]

Often times the pads have to wear in. Could be this is the source of heat. Drive for a week and keep checking.

[frankenfester]

Often times the pads have to wear in. Could be this is the source of heat. Drive for a week and keep checking.

Sounds good. I gonna remove some grease, snd the pads because the calipers need fresher paint after all the greasy hands that have touched them and bumps theyve got from hanging them and what not. Then retorque everything and make sure it isnt too tight.

Is there a recommeded amount (or can it be too tight) of pressure to crank the frint hub axle nut to? I think the book says 60lbs torque, but I want to make sure that also isnt too tight.

Sent from Galaxy S4 TAPATALK2