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Bit of an Oil Leak!!

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  • #16
    So I've read that the cam seal and the front crank seal are the same thing...but this is what I got from O'Reilly's when I asked for both...

    -Rafe-

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    • #17
      They are different seals entirely
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      • #18
        So I have the correct seals? Now I need to know which one is which.
        -Rafe-

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        • #19
          So I just did the front crank seal and oil pan gasket. The pan gasket ripped when installing. I don't think the dizzy or cam seal was leaking so I left them alone. I also noticed it looks like I'm leaking a lot of trans fluid...I don't know where it's coming from. And there is some oil leaking from the trans/flywheel dust cover. Where could this oil be coming from? I just had the rear main replaced a couple months ago. Here's some pics of the underside.

          Ripped pan gasket.


          Even though I let the oil drain for over a day when I installed the pan gasket I was getting oil leaking from right under the crank.


          Here's the transmission fluid dripping off stuff.


          And finally I think I may have popped the axles out from each side...I when I had the car up on jacks there was two different times when there was a pop/fart noise from the engine bay. And it wasn't from my rear end! One of the times it was when I was trying to pull the front swap bar out...which I ended up not being able to do. Neither side is hanging out completely, but I was curious if you could tell by these pics if it they need to be pushed back in...




          Last edited by Prafeston; 07-12-2013, 02:14 PM.
          -Rafe-

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          • #20
            Just got the pan off. The old gasket was ripped in a number of areas...I put more sealant on than I should have, but it sure looks like it was over tightened...but I torqued all the bolts to the specs found in the Ford Service manual...

            What's the dang trick to getting the gasket it on without leaks and without ripping it? You can't put it on the pan first cause the pan has to be slid up in their real carefully cause there isn't much room for it. Do you just use the sealant in a couple spots and stick it up there? That's what I did last time, but my sealant wasn't very sticky...so it was a little difficult.
            -Rafe-

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            • #21
              The spots you do put sealant...do you do it on the engine side and the pan side?
              -Rafe-

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              • #22
                Here is the pan gasket torn to shreds! I was using Hondabond gasket sealant because that's what I had around. I'll be trying this stuff next.















                -Rafe-

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                • #23
                  When I did mine I just used 100% clear silicone to hold it in place. Applied silicone then gasket let it sit to dry over night then installed oil pan worked great no leaks. And don't tighten to tight.
                  ;
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                  • #24
                    You applied the silicone to the engine and then placed the gasket up there to set over night? Or you applied the gasket to the pan to set over night?

                    And I tightened these bolts to the specs noted in the book...so I don't know what it looks like they were all over tightened.

                    I also found a potentially bad crack in the bottom end



                    -Rafe-

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                    • #25
                      :shock: That gasket! Whoa!

                      Dont let the sealent sit overnight before install. You put it on and install right away. Then it will conform to pan and engine block mounting surface.

                      The gasket should come with directions for install. I think it goes on pan first.
                      I always use a good hi-temp RTV sealent like RTV, black or red

                      A second look @ crack says ...hmmm.... Doesnt look good does it?

                      Wonder how deep it is? Cant tell fron pic shot. Will sealant seal it? hmmmmmm
                      Last edited by drddan; 07-12-2013, 05:38 PM.
                      Dan




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                      • #26
                        I used regular silicone to set it but rev will be a little different but if you mount oil pan right away the gasket shifts good to let it dry a little. But rtv to pan then gasket to pan then maybe sit for 15-30 minutes then mount pan. When I apply gasket to pan I put all screws through holes while rtv dries a little. So it doesn't shift at all. And press gasket it a little to seal to rtv.
                        ;
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                        • #27
                          You are doing this in the wrong order... You seal the front end and top orings first. Dizzy,Cam & Front Main. These dont require you to seperate the Motor. Then you sepearte Motor & nail the rear Main & Pan Gasket. Done- When you do the pan gasket its TEN Times Easier to do it correctly.Without 10 pounds of sealant because the dust sheild/tranny isnt in your way.All you need is a bead on silicone on the "Humps" of the aluminum covers that mate to the pan.Thats the only place you want silicone-
                          And I would bet a six pack your O rings are dry rotted unles the PO replaced them.
                          And the best type of silcone to use is Permatex Black Ultra.
                          Last edited by nitrofarm; 07-12-2013, 06:49 PM.
                          Some people like to read fiction,I prefer to read repair manuals. Weird I know-
                          Henry Ford: "Failure is the opportunity to begin again more intelligently"
                          Fuseable Link Distribution Block repair link

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                          • #28
                            I had my transmission replaced a couple months ago so I had my rear main done then. I was told them that my pan gasket was leaking.

                            I did my front crank last well and didn't really see any sounds of leakage from the cam seal or dizzy.

                            I'm hoping with a little extra sealant by that crack it will hold..but I don't know?
                            -Rafe-

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                            • #29
                              On a BP they use only rtv no gasket so I sure the sealant would work fine.
                              ;
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                              '92 Festiva L M/T
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                              • #30
                                overall, no crack is a good crack.
                                Ford Festiva 1991 WA Model (5 Door)
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