need help asap

[Micro Mudder]

I blew a head guasket the other day and I replaced it correctly.. drove for maybe 50 miles it went bad and I found out my head worped so I got a head of an 89 (120xxx). For my 93 (185xxx). And got a compleat gasket rebuild set annd gasket sealent and when I got it all together after all day working on it it won't fire at all. Iit has a great spark and fuel fumes out the tail pipe... I also did the timing exactly the way I was suposed to. Does the 89 to 93 just have different guts in the heads? I need help asap I'm stranded in kc but live in NE and work monday

[bravekozak]

Check to make sure the ignition wires are hooked up in the right order. Did you happen to remove the wires from the distributor cap and then replace them?

[Micro Mudder]

I replaced them but it drove then I changed the head but all I did was pull the distrubitor out at the head and put it back on the new ones with out pulling off the wires.

[Movin]

does it sound like it has compression when you crank it ?? If nothing is popping or cackling out the tail or intake something is unplugged or timing is way off, like 180.

[bravekozak]

Two wires might still be incorrect. Check the firing order again and the wiring.
1-3-4-2 counterclockwise.

[Micro Mudder]

that's what I thought to so I tried it and nothing. When at TDC for cylder 1 the destributor cap is on that wire and so on.

[Movin]

From which fender are you observing counter clockwise ? Just covering bases. Have you done the pop your finger off the spark plug hole while turning the engine , bringing the engine to top dead center om that cylinder and checking the direction the rotor points..heck as hard as it is to see the crank marks sometimes you could have the belt on wrong!! Check it too.

[Micro Mudder]

The one closest to the timing belt is cylndr 1 and on the drivers side fasing the car I'm judging counter clockwise. And I did do the finger in the whole trick but it had pressure on the upper stroke. And I can still see my white and yellow timing marks on my pully

[crashed]

I'm working with Chris on this...

Timing mark at 10 BTDC and observing looking in the cylinder through the spark plug hole, #1 is at TDC and the cam timing gear marks at 12 & 3. At the distributor, the rotor is at #1.

Also removed the timing belt and turned the cam 180. Shouldn't change anything. Didn't help.

Distributor only goes in one way, wires were never removed from it. Rotor had never been removed, but just for the heck of it tried it in all 3 positions.

We have spark. We have fuel. Got air. Timing seems to be good. I'm at a loss.

I know I've seen this before working on an engine... but I'm old, I've seen a lot of things before. Just don't remember enough of them to be useful.

[zoom zoom]

The white and yellow marks are for fine tuning the timing, the timing belt needs to be put on by looking at the notch on the timing belt cog(behind crank pulley) and the two grooves on the cam pulley. White and yellow marks on the crank pulley won't do any good to look at until after you get it running. Also the distributor being too far off will keep it from starting, twist it fully forward and backward then leave it in the middle until it gets fired up, but dont drive it like that until you set the timing with a timing gun or you'll blow the head gasket back out in a matter of miles if not minutes.


Just saw the last post, welcome to the site crashed!! flipping the cam 180 would make the marks line up at 6 & 9, there's a dowell in the end of the cam that lines the cam gear up. Probably the best bet is just starting from scratch. Remove everything and put the #1 cyl@ TDC, also make sure the notch on the timing cog is pointing straight up at the arrow cast on the oil pump housing so you know its right, flip the cam around so the marks line up @12 & 3, install belt and let the tensioner rest on the belt then tighten it down, roll the engine over by hand a few times and check the timing marks..I rarely ever get it right the first time.

After you get the timing belt on if you look at the disty from the driver side the rotors button should be getting ready to go by #1 cyl, which will be at the top left.

[crashed]

Ok, went back to scratch.

Crank timing gear's aligned to the notch.
Cam timing gear's aligned @ 12 & 3.
Rotor is @ #1.
Got spark & fuel.
Same problem, still won't start.

Actually didn't have to change anything - Timing was aligned and we had already taken the cam 180.

[koRnhead]

Fusible links or one of the main relays would be my next spot to look. Or perhaps you don't have the intake sealed up tight. that would also do it, bad VAF may also have a part in this.

[bravekozak]

Are wires 3 and 2 in the correct place?

See pic.

[Micro Mudder]

Put all new fuesabal links in and I just checked the spark plug wires from bravekozaks picture the intake manifold it tightened down

[zoom zoom]

you have the two wire ground strap hooked up to the head where it was, and the ground from head to passenger side frame hooked up right? Make sure the VAF and all the other sensors on the engine are hooked up and secure. Sometimes the pinouts will pop backwards out of the sockets and not get good contact. The TPS needs to be hooked up, there's also a relay mounted on the bracket behind the coolant overflow bottle that needs to be hooked up.