89 carb issue

[Banana Bonanza]

Here is gasket for 1989 Festiva carb spacer to manifold:

[Banana Bonanza]

Now look at that front drive GLC adapter on ebay:

[Banana Bonanza]

Now here is pic of base from that ebay listing:

[Banana Bonanza]

Here is better pic of gasket for that 99004.673 adapter:

Hmmm, interesting notice bolt holes seem spaced same as Festiva, BUT the bigger bore hole is on end with the wider spaced bolts on Festiva. On the GLC, smaller bore hole is on end with the wider spaced bolts.

So maybe not same. Oh well.

[bravekozak]

The only way to tell which carb requires the least modification is to buy the GLC carb base gasket and overlay it on top of the Festiva gasket.

[Joshawa91]

Did some digging. This thingy is badly rusted and seems seized. I can take it out but a screw holding it in is broke off inside so i need the piece that attaches to air filter with the two hoses going to it and the new part( the one with the dashed blue line. Wat Is it exactly so I can order it and wat does it do? And can I order the big part?

[MasterTec]

I took the adapter that came with my Weber kit (for a samurai) and filled in the holes with epoxy putty. Then I drilled new holes and beveled them with a grinding stone and it's been working great ever since!

I used a product very similar to this, except the permatex brand (IIRC) CLICK HERE

And here's a picture of my concoction:

http://www.fordfestiva.com/forums/showthread.php?45293-Weber-Conversion-Project&p=546085&viewfull=1#post546085

I should add that I ended up purchasing an old Escort carb and getting rid of the 32/36 DGEV I had. Actually I still have it but I'll probably sell it cheap.

Why? The escort carb's jets can be removed without taking the air horn off. Also I never could get the DGEV to run right. I would cut out during transitions and I just got tired of dicking with it - plus I got the escort carb for $12.

I ended up "slotting" two of the holes on the escort carb and using it in conjunction with a THICK escort cab gastet with my weber adapter. It works great!

[MasterTec]

Did some digging. This thingy is badly rusted and seems seized. I can take it out but a screw holding it in is broke off inside so i need the piece that attaches to air filter with the two hoses going to it and the new part( the one with the dashed blue line. Wat Is it exactly so I can order it and wat does it do? And can I order the big part?

Just get rid of it. The part that blue dashed hose connects to is the "swirl valve". Good luck finding one of these! Mine was blown for years. Before I even installed the weber I just eliminated that entire box. Just unbolt it from the air cleaner, cap off the vacuum hoses, remove one of the exhaust tube hoses and clamp the other exhaust hose over both tubes.

[bob^3]

Just get rid of it. The part that blue dashed hose connects to is the "swirl valve". Good luck finding one of these! Mine was blown for years. Before I even installed the weber I just eliminated that entire box. Just unbolt it from the air cleaner, cap off the vacuum hoses, remove one of the exhaust tube hoses and clamp the other exhaust hose over both tubes.

What effect does that have? I never understood that part's purpose honestly, and if I could remove it I never will need to.

Now with 100% more autocorrect fail!

[FestYboy]

it's part of your PAIR system. a passive air injection pump for your cat. it keeps the cat alive and that in turn lowers your emissions.

[Joshawa91]

i want to keep as original as possible but if i need to switch carbs i will, once i find a good carb and adapter. it will idle ok when warm but cold it gets weird. if i give it just alittle gas it will go like normal but if i floor it, or give just a little more than enough to to gain speed, she either stumbles then accelerates slowly. or she falls on her face till i back to that sweet spot. starts right up when warm but if cold takes some highly persuasive foot work on gas. will usually go right to almost redline if in neutral.

[bob^3]

i want to keep as original as possible but if i need to switch carbs i will, once i find a good carb and adapter. it will idle ok when warm but cold it gets weird. if i give it just alittle gas it will go like normal but if i floor it, or give just a little more than enough to to gain speed, she either stumbles then accelerates slowly. or she falls on her face till i back to that sweet spot. starts right up when warm but if cold takes some highly persuasive foot work on gas. will usually go right to almost redline if in neutral.

Exactly what mine has been doing! Did that air filter smell of fuel by any chance?

Local shop was able to improve symptoms a bit by replacing some shorting wires, but still not entirely fixed. Raising the idle setting with the screw on the side seems to at least stop it from stalling during a bog.

Luckily I don't care about emissions anymore, my car just hit local vintage/antique age this year, so no more emissions tests again.

Now with 100% more autocorrect fail!

[Joshawa91]

I will have to look tomorrow. I do have what looks to be a ground coming from some wires by Tammy/ starter. It's black so I think it's a ground anyway. I'll take a pic and a video now that I got battery's for my camera.

[bravekozak]

You want a carb that responds to the slightest blip of the throttle. That does not describe the stock carb. Carbs don't need computers. They were invented long before the computer ever was. If you don't believe me, just go to the Woodward Cruise in a couple of weeks.

[Banana Bonanza]

You want a carb that responds to the slightest blip of the throttle. That does not describe the stock carb. Carbs don't need computers. They were invented long before the computer ever was. If you don't believe me, just go to the Woodward Cruise in a couple of weeks.

Actually when my OEM carb was working correctly, it was very responsive. Compare apples and apples. Comparing a new Weber to an OEM carb in need of a rebuild or other problems like vacuum leaks or sensor/wiring malfunction is not a fair comparison. In proper working condition, computer carbs are usually more efficient or at least cleaner. THATS WHY ELECTRONIC FUEL INJECTION HAS BEEN STANDARD SINCE THE 90s, the computer can react faster and more accurately than any mechanical approximation system and you get that bit of extra efficiency and lot lower emissions. But its far more complicated and far more expensive.

Support parts for older systems like computer carbs get discontinued. Complicated systems dont age well and arent economical to repair. You wont see people 50 years from now pulling cars of today out of some remote fence row and try to restore them. Well not unless we have Star Trek type replicators that can make one-off parts on demand.