rebuild advice

[1chrisapple]

thinks ill try that .. some times sucks having a b6d swap harder to get parts. i hope i can get it working without buying a new afm.
but i guess this one has made it 269xxx thats a lot of flaping lol!!

Theres a mercury tracer at my local pap that i pulled b6 from still had a vaf.i could get it for u if it will work.sell it to u for cost plus shipping. I didnt need it as im carb car

[william]

I'm pretty sure it would differnt .
thanks for the offer tho

[william]

ok so i think that spraying the afm down and it helping was just coincidentes
it seams to run fine when cold but then warmed up it has a high idle .
also i for got to add all the hickuping started after i over heated it. not bad but i had a bad tstst gasket and it leaked down and over heated.
the more i think about it it seams like a coolest temp sen.
cuz megs dropped from 43 to 35 same driving.
and i had a similar issue last winter when i ran it low on coolent
it would shutter while crusing it was really cold out got home and it was low on coolent when i toped it off it fixed it.
your thoughts ?
also i do not have a iac hooked up never have it always runs if you plug it in and idles @ 2500. so its been unpluged since the swap

[william]

well i replaced the temp sensor and seems to have fixed the problem it idles very nice and has not done its hickuping . hopefully this fixed it. will report tomorrow after a longer drive.

[FestYboy]

if the idle is still high once warmed up, adjust the base idle screw CLOCKWISE.

[william]

tried that but than it would not idle when cold. it was acting very weird. i would idle at 1000 cold than 1500-1800rpm warm.
i believe i have utter fixed but well see after work today.

[TorqueEffect]

tried that but than it would not idle when cold. it was acting very weird. i would idle at 1000 cold than 1500-1800rpm warm.
i believe i have utter fixed but well see after work today.

Sounds like the IAC is hooked up wrong if you ask me, like it is hooked up backwards, if that is even possible. lol

[william]

iac is not hooked up at all. but yes that is what it seams like. but the temp sensor has fixed the idle problem. but still that weird miss almost like a burnt valve. it will idle like verrrr duh duh duh verrrr duh duh .
only when warmed up. while cold it nice and smooth.

[jason_]

Pull boots off plug so spark is forced to jump on the bridge.

I do that trick allllll the time on our 67 318 we mocked in a hough wheel loader. A poor plug will look beautiful, but won't do jack squat under compression if weak/wet/whatever . A quick trick is to pull bootthe a bit, if it'll jump a 1/4", then you can guarantee it'll bridge the electrode...

I've had wet/cold plugs that'll wake up doing that, increase throttle, and slowly bring boot back onto plug, making sure she dries out. If it misses once wire is fully on, time to replace plug.

Expansion/contraction from heat might be bringing out a cracked porcelain/ceramic issue.

Old timers trick.

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[william]

well ill try it but the plugs are new (ngk)

[jason_]

Coil not liking warmer Bay temps?

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[william]

not sure how to check this but the coil is from the capri that the motor came from.
i have it on the driver frame rail down low where the battery box use to be.
iac trying some injection cleaner and will keep you updated.

[william]

ok so it started missing extremely bad like running on 3 cylinders bad i went to pull my plug wired they are new as of 2 weeks ago .. and they are stuck like baddddd stuck tried spraying them down with oil but no go.
pulled the top rubber and tried using pliers on them i don't want to brake the plastic what dk i do?

[william]

now i know why i hate cheap China junk

[william]

so i finely got home 1 hour at a top speed of 50 i felt like a metro running 3 cylinders
i tried to get the plastic nice off aging and the top broke these are the crapiest wires i have ever seen.